BulletProof-TMIC Mod - LGT, 08+ WRX

No, but it does require hacking, possibly altering/removing the bumper beam, bumper cover (not a huge deal but a reality nevertheless), etc etc. So not all FMICs are created equal and not all are plug-and-play.

They all have advantages/disadvantages. The good thing is we have choices for our set-ups and preferences.

the trimming was so minimal that I think the IPR requires more hand work than the racer-x

 

 

but price to performance, this wins

The Racer-X is perfect, if you don't mind having a front mount. It's innexpensive, high quality, easy to install, and well proven. My reason for not wanting a front mount is simple. I don't want to cut up my bumper, and I don't have a non-stock turbo.

 

If either of those things change, then I'll probably just get a TurboXS front mount. Or design my own AWIC.

So wait... what about higher stages... 3, 4... 4.5

 

according to the "list" Mine is at a stage 4 after upgrading the turbo, fuel system, motor internals and intake/exhaust.

 

I stopped reading after the first few pages of this... not enough time to read it all. Is this bulletproof oem endtank with bars really gonna not blow apart on a stage 4 tune?

 

The day ANY boost level does ANYTHING to a BP Modded TMIC... isn't going to happen. Boost that high might blow the TMIC to IM coupler, but it will not affect the IC. People have looked at that "lowly" OEM IC and seen FAILURE for so long they no long actually see it. Look again... see the reinforcing ribs? That isn't just "plastic" there either.

 

But come one. This isn't about that (how many times has it been said ). It is about boost levels 20 psi or less. Sure it can take more, but who is going to include the OEM TMIC, modded or not, with setups that can purr at 22-26 psi.

 

The hot side end tank does heat soak, but all that matters is temp at outlet. If you have consistently lower temps at outlet, it doesn't matter what the other side of the intercooler is doing.

 

 

I can agree that outlet temps are all that matter, but outlet temps are directly related to inlet temps.

What matters is the delta... the true performance of a heat exchanger. These are all things I am sure you know.

 

PartyRock, I totally disagree with a cheap FMIC being "the best way to go". I have not read through this whole thread but its certainly not about the money (some of it is, of course). I personally stay away from FMIC unless the setup absolutely needs it. It all depends on the goals, but many people's goals do not require it. BTW have you ever installed FMIC's in the LGT or driven with one for a number of miles?

 

BAC: I have designed an AWIC setup before and the results were quite good.

 

I hate to join, this seems to mostly be a pissing match... I laugh reading most of it.

in all seriousness BAC, the vf46 works very well with the racer-x. i too was concerned about lag etc, keep in mind the racer-x tubes are smaller than standard fmic's (<-3in), so this helps with flow in smaller turbos. Secondly, the amount of cutting i needed to do arent noticeable when the core isnt there, i did not need to cut any part of the painted portion of the bumper cover....with it all installed it looks like nothing was cut. really- compared to all the fmics out there, this kit is PERFECT for lgt's and hell, stage 2. I'm running stock fueling and running a bit over 300bhp/tq with this setup. (tbe, fmic, os tune)

I know of at least 3 cases where the FMIC was not an easy or straight-forward install. These days I know better than to take internet forum info for granted.

FYI I built a custom module to measure inlet and outlet temps using a micro-controller, display, and some cheap GM IAT sensors. Data is king with heat exchangers.

true that, in for results

I can agree that outlet temps are all that matter, but outlet temps are directly related to inlet temps.

What matters is the delta... the true performance of a heat exchanger. These are all things I am sure you know.

 

They are things I know (quite well in fact). My point was simply to say that at the end of the day, outlet temps matter the most. If the aluminum TMIC has a bit more heat soak on the hot side, the outlet temps being the same or lower than the stock intercooler are proof in point the efficiency of a better designed intercooler. People get so caught up in the concept of "heatsoak", but I'm pretty sure they have no idea why.

 

BAC: I have designed an AWIC setup before and the results were quite good.

 

I've been really interested in designing one, but I just don't have the time. I know the results would be awesome, and I know I could build one that would be sufficient to maintain nearly constant intake temps. I just don't have the time to devote to doing it as correctly as I want.

 

I might shoot you a PM about the setup you did. Maybe I'll casually design something for my own use. I have some pretty cool ideas for how I want to set it up.

 

I hate to join, this seems to mostly be a pissing match... I laugh reading most of it.

 

Which is why I'm done with this thread. You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. I've put the science and the facts out there. If people STILL don't want to believe science and fact, then I suggest ice to go with the kool-aide.

FYI I built a custom module to measure inlet and outlet temps using a micro-controller, display, and some cheap GM IAT sensors. Data is king with heat exchangers.

 

Ugh, one of yet another side projects I want to toss together. Build an efficiency gauge for the intercooler.

 

So many ideas, so little time.

My reason for not wanting a front mount is simple. I don't want to cut up my bumper

 

IIRC, OBXTs need a bit more cutting than LGTs. More reason to stick with a TMIC with your goals.

Which is why I'm done with this thread. You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. I've put the science and the facts out there. If people STILL don't want to believe science and fact, then I suggest ice to go with the kool-aide.

I just put the real loonies on ignore and just step in if any innocents look like they are going to try the koolaid. I think most people are smart enough to ignore the nonsense and you'll wear yourself out trying to rebut every bit of gibberish posted on teh intarwebz.

Uh oh. Look what we started.

 

To each his own. Everyone has made some great points and is right or wrong in varying degrees. Either way it's the original point of the thread talking about how a BP TMIC is one of the best for STG2. Not the best or that the Perrin is the worst. I made my opinion clear that the perrin design sucks. I said it, it's my opinion. Put it in another thread please?

 

I'll even start a "Perrin design TMIC RANT thread" if it helps?

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/bp-imafinish.png

Flmao.

:lol:

 

 

Soda Pop, you have talent.

Just thought I could sum up 16 pages of banter with 1 picture

^you owe me a kidney

Funny stuff Soda Pop! :lol:

Just thought I could sum up 16 pages of banter with 1 picture

 

 

I nominate you for the "post cliff notes" job.

 

My thread on NASIOC:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2106384

 

 

So I've tried to bring up that thread and I get a page that tells me I don't have permission to access the page. Are you sure the link is correct? I guess I could do a search, but I thought I would let you know the link is bad.

the link is correct. the mod locked it and "deleted" it.

the link is correct. the mod locked it and "deleted" it.

 

All that typing and in-depth anti-logic down the toilet. Oh dear, what a pity, how sad, never mind.

Here's my install of SeeeeeYa's BP kit. The initial install was a bit of a pain but overall it wasn't too terribly bad. I'm glad I did this because the intercooler tabs is beginning to come apart. Also, I notice the oily residue on the side of the intercooler, even worst on the backside. So I'm relieve for now thinking about the endtanks going to come apart

 

- The intercooler brackets didn't sit flush. It took a little bit of hammering to get it in there.

 

- The lower bolt as mention, rubs onto the large (bpv?) hose and also run into the brake booster hose.

 

- After the installed, I had to man handle the intercooler into the throttle body side to get the coupling sitting "flush". Because the bolt has pressing onto the large bpv hose.

 

- The engine cover didn't sit flush because of the brake booster vaccum hose couldn't sit flush down far enough. So the cover bulge on the driver side. I got rid of the push in tabs for a screw on tabs so the cover sits flush.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3155-4.jpg

 

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3151-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3162-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3166-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3163-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3164-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3165-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3174-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3175-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3176-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3177-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3171-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3178-4.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3170-4.jpg