What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?

My wife was driving the SS home and the upper radiator hose blew and kept driving. All the coolant leaked out, the temp gauge was pegged, and the CEL light came on two blocks before she got home. She drove it for about 10-15 minutes with smoke coming out from under the hood. She didn't check the temp gauge once smoke started pouring out from under the hood. I checked it when she got home though.

 

I'll replace the hose this Saturday if I can and cross my fingers nothing was damaged. I don't feel like replacing the head gaskets again.

Oh no! That's sucks, I know you put a ton of work into that. Ill cross my fingers your motors fine. If you have the extra money for silicone hoses they last forever. After 25 years almost every hose needs to be replaced. I know I had issues until every hose was replaced. Does anyone ever have issues with the motor oil drain plug leaking? It seems if I don't install a new washer everytime, it leaks slightly. I will probably get a oil drain fitting, so the oil plug is a valve and doesn't require removal to drain the oil.

I'm picking up OEM radiator hoses tomorrow morning and installing them. I have replaced all other coolant lines except the two that go to the heater core. They should arrive special order on Tuesday.

 

Hopefully my 22T didn't take a crap. Fortunately I have a split 22T block and internals and two sets of 22T heads that I can rebuild and put in the SS if the existing motor is bad. I was considering building a stroker 22T for my second gen but that plan is now on hold. I was getting so close to getting the SS back to it's stock glory. But I am not about to give up on it.

I'm picking up OEM radiator hoses tomorrow morning and installing them. I have replaced all other coolant lines except the two that go to the heater core. They should arrive special order on Tuesday.

 

Hopefully my 22T didn't take a crap. Fortunately I have a split 22T block and internals and two sets of 22T heads that I can rebuild and put in the SS if the existing motor is bad. I was considering building a stroker 22T for my second gen but that plan is now on hold. I was getting so close to getting the SS back to it's stock glory. But I am not about to give up on it.

 

Gotta love cars lol. Don't give up, that thing is an awesome car!

This is why my girlfriend understands if shit goes sour. CALL me. Do not pretend like you have a clue what you are doing.

 

Women cost way too much money.

Sucks about the deceptive misfire. What's your plug gap at? I was told by my tuner to never run above .025" I run a .024". Not sure if its your problem but mine was occurring right at maximum torque around 3500-4500 under full throttle when the boost peaks. I was tuning it with him when I re gapped them from .028 to .024, the hesitation went away. The boost was blowing out the spark.

I've had a little gremlin I've been chasing for years with this driveline. It feels like a slightly warped brake disc from the front end. Only thing is I've replaced all 4 disc, pads, tie rod ends, installed a new set of wheels and tires. I thought back to a time when I nailed a curb really good with the left front, so today I installed a brand new hub, with bearing and seals. Bearings were pressed in by machine shop, to my dismay the vibration is still, slightly there. Its barely noticable but just enough to be annoying and I just spent 135$ for nothing. I've replaced almost everything rotating in the front end, I wish something would just catastrophically break so I could say no shit! that was it. Taking suggestions and even conspiracy theories

I've had something similair albeit, in a '04 TL Magna (aka Mitsubishi Verada/Diamante) which had had a front end collision and was not repaired properly. I'd suggest redoing the Front end bushes on anyhting you have'nt done yet and check really closely those mating surfaces. in the end on the Magna it was a slight indentation and warp on the lower A-Arm that was the real issue with a split bush from the accident that hadn't been looked at let alone fixed. so a trip to a friend's wrecking yard and $15 in Bushes and a bit of time later it was fixed.

 

hope this might help you in your quest for smooth operation.

upgraded interior lights http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/2012-12-13174451.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/2012-12-13174510.jpg

 

2 led strips

This is why my girlfriend understands if shit goes sour. CALL me. Do not pretend like you have a clue what you are doing.

 

Women cost way too much money.

 

That is what I have told her. I also told her many times to always keep an eye on the temp gauge and to pull over if anything ever went wrong. :spin:There was a small coolant leak which I fixed a few months back that smoked a little. When she saw all the smoke she figured it was nothing to worry about. When she pulled up smoke was POURING out from under the hood.

 

I'm off to go replace the hoses so wish me luck.

SS is back to life and seems to be running great. It is now throwing codes 22 (knock sensor) & 44 (duty control solenoid valve). I'll replace the knock sensor in the hopes that the overheating fried it and I don't really have a knock (crosses fingers).

 

A new duty control solenoid valve is $150.

Thanks sqc151! I'm off to go see if I can find a Diamond Coil pack at the salvage yard. I might also pick up a drop resistor if I need to install a mbc.

I found and tested a perfect Diamond ignition coil at the junkyard as well as an OEM knock sensor!

 

I installed the Diamond ignition coil and knock sensor and no more CELs! I ordered an MBC and I also picked up a drop resistor from a 4EAT. Now when I install the MBC I won't get a CEL.

 

The SS runs great! I have quick acceleration (for a 4EAT ). The SS is running as it should, finally!

 

Now I can move on and install the boost gauge. That way I know how much boost I am actually getting so I can dial the mbc correctly (stock boost is 8.7 psi & 10.3 psi fuel cut).

 

If everything goes well after that I can install the tmic and the TD04 (if eekay ever ships it to me).

My bro in law and I replaced purge canister solenoid (relocated to intake manifold), both temp sensors, and fiddled with door glass. I've got to put the new longer vacuum lines in today, hopefully no more 35 CEL.

Put vacuum lines in, vacuumed out 9 years worth of crud, took off the car phone antenna (yes car phone), stripped out a bunch of old speaker wire. I drove it around town to warm it up, then got it passed emissions testing! I'll get it registered and insured tomorrow.

I finally figured out what was causing my stereo to short out. Turns out the ground on the factory harness plug is bad. It took me all day yesterday to figure it out.

 

I thought the head unit was bad so I went and picked up a nice Kenwood deck. My subs quit working too. The amp kept turning on even though the deck had no power. I used my multimeter checked all the amp wiring and it was all good. I checked to see if I was getting 12V when the car was running and I was getting 11.5V. I pulled out the remote amp wire to see if it was pinched, it was good. I installed the new head unit and it would go on and off. I checked the amp fuse again and this time it was burnt out.

 

Finally it got dark and I could see a small spark when the head unit cage touched metal. I ran a new ground for the stereo and everything works great again. I guess the old stereo is still Ok but I like the way the Kenwood sounds so I am leaving it. It also has some nice options such as a USB port.

 

Boost gauge install coming up next. Then a boost leak test using my new leak tester I made from Home Depot parts.

I installed a Prosport boost gauge and a "Power" mode rocker switch w/led. I also did a boost leak test with my homemade boost leak detector and found a MAJOR leak at the turbo inlet gasket. One of the bolts was less than finger tight! I tightened it up but the gasket is bad so I will order a new one tomorrow. Another pressure leak was at a PCV breather hose. I put a hose clamp on that.

 

It was a major improvement to the performance of the SS. I get a boost leak around 5 psi if I am punching the throttle but if I am careful I can get up to 8.7 psi stock boost.

 

I am still waiting on my MBC which was lost in the mail. Once I get that and pinpoint all of my boost leaks I can install the tmic and TD04 and dial it up to 13 psi. After that I will fabricate a fuel cut defender if I feel the need to go a bit higher.

 

I will do a write up for a boost leak tester soon.

Edited December 31, 2012 by monkeyposeur

Got the 93 running today. Even at 230k the 5 speed shifts just fine (with Extra-S of course!)

 

So far happy with the power

Picked up one of these to keep an eye on my oil pressure in the future. http://prosportgauges.com/remote-oil-pressure-sender-installation-kit.aspx#

Slave cylinder took a shit

My turbo inlet gasket arrived from the dealership. I picked it up and removed the turbo inlet, which was a huge PITA. Hardly any room to work. Plus it was about 10 degrees outside. I broke a PCV line while I was at it, and the nipple off my auxillary purge control valve (JB welded it back on, it's curing).

 

Once I got the inlet off I pulled the brittle cracking old POS off and I realized the replacement gasket is the wrong size! The bolt holes didn't line up and the inner diameter of the gasket is way to big. I didn't have a choice so I installed it. I filed the holes so the bolts would go through. Hopefully I can get the dealership to find the right one. The package has the correct part no. on it 14415 AA030, so I don't know what's up.

 

There was a noticeable improvement in performance though, but I still get a boost leak if I punch it. I was so hopeful that this would fix the problem, but I'll have to wait and see until I get everything back together.

 

All in all it took about three hours to take everything apart and put it back together.

 

Comparison of gaskets:

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/DSCF7038_zpseaa01678.jpg

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/DSCF7039_zpscfaea0e2.jpg

 

Pic of VF-11:

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/DSCF7041_zpsc1bc010e.jpg

 

Tight fit for tools :

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/DSCF7043_zps132e18e7.jpg

 

edit: Before I replaced the gasket I was at -20 psi during idle. Now I'm at -6 psi. I bypassed the aux purge valve until the JB weld cures. I hope that when I put it back on I'll be back to normal in that respect.

Edited January 6, 2013 by monkeyposeur

So as I was heading towards California for xmas, I dropped another Cylinder, POS ej20g COP coilpacks keep burning up. Did some research and the dwell time for the link plus standalone ems is too long for thw factory crappacks. They over heat and fail, anyways I was unsuccessful at trying to get the factory ej22t coil pack to fire. I gave in and bought a set of 4- AEM coilpacks, these bad boys better not fail and should solve the proplem. The hesitation under high boost shouod go away also. I've been creating a custom aluminum bracket to sit those coilpacks right on top instead of on top of the spark plugs. I haven't seen anyone upgrade their COP's yet so it should be interesting.

Yep, here you go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-boost-leak-tester-ss-199337.html

 

It's short but has all of the info one would need (I hope). Thanks for motivating me to write it up, lol.

Pulled a used dash board to replace mine (car prowler ripped the old one apart stealing the stereo). I didn't realize when I started that I needed the whole frickin' dashboard. I also had a mechanic listen to my tick who confirmed its an HLA. That's a big load off my mind. Now to summon the courage to tackle replacing the dash.

I bought a project legacy today..I'm going to murder out a 90 legacy ls wagon...got lots of work ahead of me to bet it on the road though...going to pull the motor next weekend and reseal it completely, head gaskets as well (they are bad). Its got a few cosmetic issues and some interior work will need to be done as well...the owner sold it to me dirt cheap, think he wanted it out of his backyard.

 

I replacement a motor replacement in my Bd sedan today but when I got it to operating temp it didn't pump water to the block...so I'm thinking the brand new pump doesn't work, now I have to take a freshly rebuilt motor..DAMMIT! my car has been down for over a month waiting on the machine shop and a couple other little parts.

Pulled a used dash board to replace mine (car prowler ripped the old one apart stealing the stereo). I didn't realize when I started that I needed the whole frickin' dashboard. I also had a mechanic listen to my tick who confirmed its an HLA. That's a big load off my mind. Now to summon the courage to tackle replacing the dash.

all I can say is pay very close attention to the car you are pulling the dash out of and take pics where needed. write down quantities of bolts and tools needed.

 

also bag and tag the tricky nuts and bolts and be careful with the brittle trim bits & clips that lurk where one would think they dont. if you are getting it from a self serve wrecker you should be able to get all the HVAC ducting for nothing as part of the dash:icon_chee and replace all the vent flap foams if they are crumbling to save yourself time in the long run.

 

I've had to go surfing under the dash and i'm still losing sleep from it(hurt my back).

Edited January 15, 2013 by AfterBurner_1