Frame support

So after installing

 

-koni struts

-whiteline bump steer and roll center kit, steering rack bushings, front control arm front and rear anti lift/caster bushings

-eibach springs

-hotchkis sway bar set

-kartboy endlinks

-avo sway bar mounting bracket

 

I think I need more frame support. I feel some flex in the body. I'm more accustomed to 3rd gen camaros and the sort which have subframe kits, but not really sure whats offered for subaru and what actually is most useful. I guess autox'rs would know best which mods if any would stiffen up the frame. Little help!

Sounds like its time to talk with Mike at AZPinstalls.com

Sounds like its time to take a peek at whats going on in my neighborhood.

 

post 733, 734 and 795.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lalgt-rebuild-thread-152682.html

I'd like to add, remember these are not race cars....

Mine is

 

 

(KIDDING!)

ECU problem was fuse sb7 i believe and a wire going to maf was burnt out. I got away lucky!! I wanna go fast!

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnA1Q2JvvJo]Ricky Bobby's First Race "Anybody wanna go Fast" - YouTube[/ame]

I like, I like, cusco is where its at. Thats exactly what I'm looking for, thanks for the lead!

Contact Mike @ InfamousPerformance and Tuning. He is a vendor here and an official Cusco dealer. I got it all from him. My chassis is so stiff I if I lift the car from behind the front wheel the entire side lifts. Stiff like a lotus.

It started like this, I bought the subaru, my buddy who went to wyotech hi performance school decided that I cant have a faster car than him, so he goes out and buys another camaro and starts going to town. Right now he's building his engine , 383 forged rotating assembly and afr heads looking to make 600hp at the crank and a beefed up t56 viper tranny, with all the suspension and frame support goodies. So naturally I have to start planning for bigger turbo, like a td06 and some bigger fuel, but I dont like power without any control and precision, so I'll start with suspension and braking.

Some heim joints would hit the spot! Which cusco pieces did you use and how much did it run you. I will be contacting mike once I gather some more info!

Just contact Mike. He knows what all pieces are on my car and how much it will cost. You aren't going to keep up with him in a straight line without a minimum investment of $10k

Already on the lookout for a cheap bare block to start messing with! He cant go straight forever, we have lots of turns in ny.

I'd prefer to have a not as high performance car as him but learn to drive your car better and beat him at a racetrack. That way you can make more sport of him

I Got beat by a Mazda2 at a autox and it was hilarious

I got beat by a CobaltSS on a kart track. Also funny as f--k.

$$

OP - Are you simply looking for less flex or are you looking to get more grip?

 

If you're chasing absolute grip for cornering there may be less costly and possibly more effective ways to do that without trying to make this noodle of a frame stiff.

 

Contact Mike @ InfamousPerformance and Tuning. He is a vendor here and an official Cusco dealer. I got it all from him. My chassis is so stiff I if I lift the car from behind the front wheel the entire side lifts. Stiff like a lotus.

 

My track car does this. From the factory. It's pretty sweet.

 

I'd prefer to have a not as high performance car as him but learn to drive your car better and beat him at a racetrack. That way you can make more sport of him

 

This! Throw money into the driver too

want more grip, upgrade to race tires. BFG R1 give me 1.45G on the track. Want more stick on rough pavement, upgrade to a compliant c/o...AST 4300/5300 (multiple adjustments), or comparable 3-way adjustable (rebound, compression, etc). A uber stiff chassis will not make you fast, as at some point, you need compliance to maintain your grip on the road. If your suspension is stiff and your chassis is too, bumps will separate the tires from the road and make you slow.

 

At a certain point, you have to allow for cubic inches. 600hp from a 383 is equivalent to 283hp in a 2.5L. With crate v-8 motors turning out 500+hp for less $$ than a mild subie build, you need to decide where you want to be in bragging rights.

 

Then again, dont look at me for the voice of reason. I could have bought seriously competitive Pro3 car for what I spent on my engine work alone.

 

Other than a straight drag race (where power still wins the day, usually), driver skill will do more than enough to make up for the "noodleness" of your chassis.

Your like 30 miles from Mike at AZPinstalls.com they race these cars, it makes sense to contact him.

Your like 30 miles from Mike at AZPinstalls.com they race these cars, it makes sense to contact him.

 

Didnt know that...forget asking here. Ask Mike...lots of experience there.

Didnt know that...forget asking here. Ask Mike...lots of experience there.

 

That, and I'm sure they would be at the same tracks at the same time...lot's of great customer support.

^This.

 

Now that I am tracking the car it kills me that RoadRaceEngineering, YimiSport and the rest have vendor tents and Infamous doesnt (also 100 miles further than the other shops). At least I can ask Paul Leung when I get in trouble.

want more grip, upgrade to race tires. BFG R1 give me 1.45G on the track. Want more stick on rough pavement, upgrade to a compliant c/o...AST 4300/5300 (multiple adjustments), or comparable 3-way adjustable (rebound, compression, etc). A uber stiff chassis will not make you fast, as at some point, you need compliance to maintain your grip on the road. If your suspension is stiff and your chassis is too, bumps will separate the tires from the road and make you slow.

 

At a certain point, you have to allow for cubic inches. 600hp from a 383 is equivalent to 283hp in a 2.5L. With crate v-8 motors turning out 500+hp for less $$ than a mild subie build, you need to decide where you want to be in bragging rights.

 

Then again, dont look at me for the voice of reason. I could have bought seriously competitive Pro3 car for what I spent on my engine work alone.

 

Other than a straight drag race (where power still wins the day, usually), driver skill will do more than enough to make up for the "noodleness" of your chassis.

It was too late to type this, but exactly on being uber stiff on chassis and suspension. On many autox days I've seen a lot of three wheeling, which is slow.

Less flex is what im looking for, dont like how my body and suspension seem like they are on different teams when i drive hard. I just want a stiffer body, mike at ip and t gave me the run down. The car is hitting its limits, imo, so its time to throw money at it until it does what you want. Will probably get front and rear cusco brackets and power bars and call it a day.