Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

PCV hose broke


Recommended Posts

95 Legacy Lsi. Was going to replace PCV Valve. Went to pull hose out and it was kind of stiff so I tugged harder and the hose at BOTH ends came out. Now I have the PCV valve on the engine side and a plastic piece on the other which is stuck inside another hose (normally sticks out a bit to connect to the PCV hose) and the other part of the plastic is in the stiff and brittle crap hose I pulled. Need some advice.

 

http://s15.postimage.org/8qr9r0juh/100_0546.jpg

 

http://s15.postimage.org/86gu22fzt/100_0548.jpg

 

http://s15.postimage.org/65qah8juh/100_0552.jpg

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_4/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_pcv/

 

#6 in this diagram is the part you are looking for.

 

subarugenunineparts.com has them for $6.77, but if you cannot wait the dealer has them for $9.25.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have removed the connector and I will be off to the dealer for the parts. I ended up just holding on to the connector and twisted it back and forth (after disconnecting hose 4 from it). Took a while but I got it.

 

EDIT: They are closed today! Can I drive without the parts (I removed 4,5,6 and 9 from http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_4/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_pcv/)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not drive without those parts unless you had to. If you have to then make sure to cap all of the open hoses with tape or something to make sure nothing gets in them. You car will most likely run like crap and throw a check engine light. Leave the PVC valve in the intake manifold also.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. I guess I won't then. I can't even call the dealer by me until 7AM tom. to find out if they have the parts on hand. Do you have any tips for re installation after the new parts come? ex. antiseize on PCV valve threads, lightly tapping the pcv connector with a hammer into the straight hose (crankcase?) underneath it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anti-seize never hurts although I have never had a need for it. Do not use a hammer to install the new tee, it will probably break again. Just use pressure to slide it into the hose. If you cannot find one let me know, I have a spare around somewhere I could send your way. Someone local could also have one if you post your location.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if pressure alone will get it in. It was really a war getting it out. Then again there's probably less resistance to get it in. So I should:

1) antiseize and install PCV valve until tight

2) install PCV Tee Connector into Crankcase Hose until angled end is flush to crackcase hose

3) install hose 4 back into place into the tee connnector and clamp

4) install hose 5 into tee connector and PCV Valve and clamp

 

Location- Queens NY. Hope they have the parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your talking about the fatter rubber hose between the block and the reducing t fitting you can just pick of 2 inches of straight coolant hose from any auto store. i just replaced all the hard rubber on my engine with new hose from the auto store.. even the piece from the pvc down to the fitting..

 

but the fitting is a oem only part. well not only but good luch finding something at ace or the like..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your talking about the fatter rubber hose between the block and the reducing t fitting you can just pick of 2 inches of straight coolant hose from any auto store. i just replaced all the hard rubber on my engine with new hose from the auto store.. even the piece from the pvc down to the fitting..

 

but the fitting is a oem only part. well not only but good luch finding something at ace or the like..

 

That's the thing. the Y-connector would have broke regardless :-(. not sure when I'll get it hopefully by end of week. Now I'm nervous to look into replacing other hoses bc the car is so old and im picking up a mentality of don't fix something unless it's broken (only wanted to replace PCV valve because of mileage).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whenever you have hardened rubber that has to go back on, just boil some water and let it sit in there for 5 mins or so. It will soften up and allow you to reattach it.

A little oil on the inside of the hose will help.

 

O.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whenever you have hardened rubber that has to go back on, just boil some water and let it sit in there for 5 mins or so. It will soften up and allow you to reattach it.

A little oil on the inside of the hose will help.

 

O.

 

I did this for my rad lower hose when It wouldn't comply haha, works well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just quick questions. Do you put it in a pot of boiling water or boil water then put in a bowl off flame and put it in. Will it make the bowl gross with oil deposit etc. Also how long does the softness last after that (Does it come out like new?). Thanks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got the parts and installed them. Had already ordered the hose... but good to know for the future. Thanks. The only odd thing was the threads were longer on the PCV Valve (as opposed to the previous one where the threads were the perfect length) and I couldn't screw the all the way in (I used a wrench to get it as far as I could without destroying it). But started it up and sounded fine. I didn't order clips but the hose fit pretty tight so I think I'll be okay.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The PCV valve doesn't really have to be very tight. It uses tapered threads. So just put teflon tape on it, and thread it in with decent force. But not excessive. For those of you who like torque specs, probably somewhere in the low 30's.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use