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Front Lip Spoiler Thread


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Finally got my front lip spoiler installed. It took me sometime to decide on this, there are 3 different types of front lip here in China.

 

http://borjaphoto.com/temp/car%20with%20front%20lip%20pic1.jpghttp://borjaphoto.com/temp/car%20with%20front%20lip%20pic2.jpg

http://borjaphoto.com/temp/car%20with%20front%20lip%20pic3.jpg

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Has anyone tried to use the factory clips to secure the lip?

 

EG; drill holes big enough for the factory clip in the lip and just use that with the preexisting holes in the bumper for the clips?

 

I've used the factory clips and two screws to secure my front lip. The existing holes on mine are big enough for the factory clips. It seems to be fully secured so far.

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These pictures make me sad...just makes me realize how much better the rest of the world has it with their subarus compared to USDM. Just look at the front ends.

 

http://borjaphoto.com/temp/car%20with%20front%20lip%20pic1.jpghttp://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=146815&d=1364691766

 

Look at the lines on the hood, much more defined and aggressive.

Grill tapered down for much more aggressive look.

 

Lines for the lower grill are narrower and don't make the car looks as bloated.

 

Just about everything in the JDM cars are better in every way. :icon_cry:

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I agree with you. I still can't get it why it has to be different there in US. If there's some strict regulation about the bumpers in the US, why Subaru can't just retain the other parts and just modify the bumper?
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Finally got my front lip spoiler installed. It took me sometime to decide on this, there are 3 different types of front lip here in China.

 

http://borjaphoto.com/temp/car%20with%20front%20lip%20pic1.jpg

 

This looks great. I can't wait till a lip for a '13 is a available.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Does everyone recommend using rubber/neoprene washers? I can't seem to find them at the local HD/Lowes. Worst case I can buy them at Mcmaster, but I would prefer to get it locally, if possible (if needed).

 

I picked up mine at Lowes here in Trenton area. Ask one of the associates maybe they can help you locate them they do blend into the wall of stuff. The only number that looks like a part number is H# 35019

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  • 2 weeks later...
http://www.totallystainless.com/

 

This is the stainless hardware I'm using to attach my FLS: ;)

 

Item # 2-1078 #10 x 3/4 Indented Hex Washer Head Screw (24) $0.23 ea.

Item # 2-4489 #10 Rubber Backed Washer (24) $0.09 ea.

 

$5.52

$2.16

$6.95 (S&H)

______

$14.63

 

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/BigBopper_01/LGT/P1010002-3_zpsf742650a.jpg

 

 

How are the SS screws holding up? I recenly noticed one of the original screws in the wheel well are rusting. I have only been to the snow a few times this past winter?!?!

 

Thanks for the specs. I will look for something similar at my local home depot.

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Still wondering to myself if it would be more intelligent to come up with a stainless hex bolt/nut solution rather than use screws.

 

Some of you don't have to worry about the front end snow plowing badly in the winter time. I'm pretty sure this would need to come off even with the coilovers raised to max height. Drilling and undrilling twice a year wouldn't really be ideal.

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Still wondering to myself if it would be more intelligent to come up with a stainless hex bolt/nut solution rather than use screws.

 

Some of you don't have to worry about the front end snow plowing badly in the winter time. I'm pretty sure this would need to come off even with the coilovers raised to max height. Drilling and undrilling twice a year wouldn't really be ideal.

 

using a body clip is a possible solution. Like the OEM fog lights are held in place.

 

or the plastic bumper clips

1043982191_SCREWS25SETSOFBLACK4.2x16mmSCREWSBODYPANELSPEEDCLIPS.jpg.2037afa62766c7e59a13c813b3d60fad.jpg

A21422-2.jpg.fc71d5684cce3fcf8196cd686b13d5b8.jpg

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I don't think either of those are viable solutions. Pop-its are not engineered to hold the "stretch" that that the lip requires and there is really no place for the threaded clips to fit over.

 

You could try rivet nuts.

http://www.rivetnuttool.com/

Edited by GTEASER
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Okay here goes....

 

For mounting most of the locations, I used the popit that holds up our trunk liner combined with a 5/16ths drill bit to drill the holes.

 

It fits almost perfectly but a tad too tight actually...sometimes you can snap a portion of the popit off when putting it in, so its best to have spares.

 

For the corners, I used the same popit that holds up our bumpers combined with a 3/8's drill bit to make it fit, this one fits fantastically.

 

(You can choose to use any popit for mounting the whole thing TBH, its just that I had a lot of trunk liner popit spares)

 

So far it holds VERY well and I would definitely say its possible.

 

PS. if you ever go my route with using popits, make sure you DRILL BIGGER HOLES BEFORE PAINTING IT (I colormatched mine).

 

I actually have flaked off some of the paint due to the drilling.... sigh... but its underneath so no one will see it anyway.

 

Heres the BIGGEST secret.

 

Use painters tape to hold the lip in place overnight to help the plastic "shape" itself to the shape it needs to be to fit the bumper, the next day, the plastic should have molded itself tmuch closer to the shape needed for installation, this removes the "flexing" problem out of the install picture.

 

It also helps to leave the lip on the floor to flatten it out, mine was the basement for a few months so it was very flat when I got around to installing it, removing vertical flex.

Edited by DeltaSniper
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