IDEA-Web links saved for various parts

An old Honda buddy sent this to me, thought it might be of help.

https://www.belmetric.com/bf10x125x25-flange-bolt-109-p-414.html?zenid=3jh0go1ljton99gishi2rid8a7&cPath=2_1047_69

FWIW, I think that's the bolts or the next size longer ones I used to bolt my turbo to the up pipe.

Just checked Feb 12 2021, this link still works

i use it every day

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISFM22-Universal-Bluetooth-Transmitter/dp/B0072L86GU/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1417463064&vehicle=2006-13-64------------1-0&sr=1-4-catcorr&ymm=2006%3Asubaru%3Alegacy&keywords=isimple+bluetooth]Amazon.com: iSimple ISFM22 TranzIt Universal Bluetooth Enabled FM Transmitter Car Kit for iPhone or iPod, Blue: Car Electronics[/ame]

This thread lists a lot of the more common issues that we face as LGT lunatics. There is a lot of information here and a lot of links to various other sources. Read through them if you have an issue and you may just find the answer here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my05-09-legacy-gt-common-issues-230230.html

Many thanks to Akasa for allowing the link to his thread.

First stab at an index (pages 3 & 4 on big boy settings):

General

2.5 N/A Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

2005-2006 Fuel Pressure Regulator

Add bluetooth to your factory radio

BarManBean's list of "Reliability Modifications"

BMB OE TMIC Bulletproof Kit

Brembo and Stoptech components

Check your VIN to see if your car was previously damaged

Crank Pulley part numbers & weights

Custom Side Feed Fuel rails for larger injectors

DBA Rotor Numbers

Gauges sources

Half moon head seals

How to Use 2006+ Subaru Internal Trouble Code Reader

Legacy gt sedan upper plastic coolant reservoir w/cap good used oem

LGT OE Power Steering Oil Cooler P/N

Link to Vacation Pics

Maintenance thread and also great end links

Metric fasteners/plastic clips too

OE SpecB replacement carpet P/N

OE Subaru turbo oil drain pipe gasket P/N

Oil analysis sources

Part Numbers with Names

Radiator

Re-centering Waste Gate Flap Valve

Replacement plug ends for cylinder coil packs

Replacement undertray oil filter access cover

Sources for used engines

STRONG Allen Socket for Cam Bolts

Subaru Factory Gear Ratios for Reference

Subaru OE complete engine gasket set

Subaru Valve Spring Compressor tools

Supercharger option for 2.5i

Timing Gear

Tons of good information on common issues here

Top Feed Fuel Injector Harness plugs

Tuning sources

Very nice front lip/chin spoilers for CHEAP $$$

Water Pump

Wheel adapters 5x100 to 5x114.3

Wireless OBDII Gateway Link

Turbo Powertrains

Re-centering Waste Gate Flap Valve

Tuning

Wireless OBDII Gateway Link

Tuning sources

NA Powertrains

2.5 N/A Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

Intake and Exhaust

Timing Gear

Top Feed Fuel Injector Harness plugs

Replacement plug ends for cylinder coil packs

Transmissions

Suspension / Brakes

DBA Rotor Numbers

Brembo and Stoptech components

LGT OE Power Steering Oil Cooler P/N

Wheels / Tires

Wheel adapters 5x100 to 5x114.3

Cooling/Heating

Radiator

Legacy gt sedan upper plastic coolant reservoir w/cap good used oem

Water Pump

Interior / Audio

Add bluetooth to your factory radio

Gauges sources

OE SpecB replacement carpet P/N

Exterior / Asthetic

Very nice front lip/chin spoilers for CHEAP $$$

Common Issues/Reliability Mods

Tons of good information on common issues here

BarManBean's list of "Reliability Modifications"

Maintenance thread and also great end links

OE SpecB replacement carpet P/N

Tools / Misc parts

STRONG Allen Socket for Cam Bolts

Subaru Valve Spring Compressor tools

Metric fasteners/plastic clips too

Part Numbers with Names

Link to Vacation Pics

http://blog.caranddriver.com/performance-brake-pads-compared-hawk-hps-hawk-hp-plus-ebc-yellowstuff/

http://www.hawkperformance.com/sites/default/files/downloads/Compound%20Graph.pdf - has the Hawk HPS 5.0 data

Hawk HPS (original)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q286/aasearles/HawkPadChart.jpg

Looks like HP+ is what I've always wanted, not HPS. Didn't like "cold" HPS pads AT ALL. Anyone have similar data for Carbotech or StopTech/Centric?

Hp+ is not a street pad and wil cause very quick wear on your rotors. ..think angle grinder kind of wear.

Hps is very linear pad once warm , about 4 blocks.

Hp+ is not a street pad and wil cause very quick wear on your rotors. ..think angle grinder kind of wear.

 

Hps is very linear pad once warm , about 4 blocks.

Except they're also quite panic-inducing during panic stops when it feels like you have very little for the first 4 blocks..

My Bobcats had much better "panic-stop" grip. In my case, with lots of stop-and-go driving, and not rare "OMG, everyone's stopped up ahead" panic slowdowns, I liked them WAY better than the HPS. My current StopTech pads are ok. I think a little better than the HPS, not quite as good as the bobcats..

If HP+ is angle grinder bad, are DTC70s only good for one lap?

Except they're also quite panic-inducing during panic stops when it feels like you have very little for the first 4 blocks..

 

My Bobcats had much better "panic-stop" grip. In my case, with lots of stop-and-go driving, and not rare "OMG, everyone's stopped up ahead" panic slowdowns, I liked them WAY better than the HPS. My current StopTech pads are ok. I think a little better than the HPS, not quite as good as the bobcats..

 

If HP+ is angle grinder bad, are DTC70s only good for one lap?

In street driving, your pads will never get warm, hence the angle grinder. I've used both HP+ & DTC-60/70 on the track very successfully. For the way I drive, the HP+ was good for about 3 laps more than the HPS before I was taking the run-off in the braking zones. The DTC-60/70 never faded, even when doing a 130 to 10 to avoid a huge accident (the RBF600 brake fluid boiled, the pads held the whole way).

Performance pads, by the nature, are intended for spirited driving, not stop/go traffic. Using them in commuter traffic and expecting race car response is asking to be frustrated.

If you didn't like cold hps, you're going to hate cold hp+

This is in line with everything I've read.

I'm also uncomfortable on the HPS in the cold, wet highway driving conditions we have here in BC. Panic stops from highway speeds were even more panicked this weekend, with very little braking performance for the first 50+ ft until the pads warmed up. That can easily make the difference between a close call and an accident.

I'm seriously considering installing a set of OEM pads for the winter, and swapping the HPS back in when I change back to summer wheels.

This is in line with everything I've read.

 

I'm also uncomfortable on the HPS in the cold, wet highway driving conditions we have here in BC. Panic stops from highway speeds were even more panicked this weekend, with very little braking performance for the first 50+ ft until the pads warmed up. That can easily make the difference between a close call and an accident.

 

I'm seriously considering installing a set of OEM pads for the winter, and swapping the HPS back in when I change back to summer wheels.

When I said 4 blocks to warm up, after that, they will be ok. Have you changed/bled your brakes lately? Re-bedded them? The delay in braking is not normal when at operating temps.

This is in line with everything I've read.

 

I'm also uncomfortable on the HPS in the cold, wet highway driving conditions we have here in BC. Panic stops from highway speeds were even more panicked this weekend, with very little braking performance for the first 50+ ft until the pads warmed up. That can easily make the difference between a close call and an accident.

 

I'm seriously considering installing a set of OEM pads for the winter, and swapping the HPS back in when I change back to summer wheels.

Drove the HPS year-round in SoCal, including numerous trips to the mountains during the winter for snow and summer canyon carving. Never notice any issues with the HPS not gripping, hard, on demand, in whatever environment I was in.

When I said 4 blocks to warm up, after that, they will be ok. Have you changed/bled your brakes lately? Re-bedded them? The delay in braking is not normal when at operating temps.

To be clear, "4 blocks to warm up" is applying the brakes one or more times in those 4 blocks? Or, just driving 4 blocks without applying them?

My SoCal home was on a canyon wall and by the time I drove the oblique 1/4 mile down, without applying the brakes except for the stop sign at the bottom, the HPSes were good to go.

Drove the HPS year-round in SoCal, including numerous trips to the mountains during the winter for snow and summer canyon carving. Never notice any issues with the HPS not gripping, hard, on demand, in whatever environment I was in.

 

 

 

To be clear, "4 blocks to warm up" is applying the brakes one or more times in those 4 blocks? Or, just driving 4 blocks without applying them?

 

My SoCal home was on a canyon wall and by the time I drove the oblique 1/4 mile down, without applying the brakes except for the stop sign at the bottom, the HPSes were good to go.

4 blocks, regardless how you drive it. The pads have to be over 200 degrees to start working well. From my house, it's 2 blocks uphill to the first stop sign. I allow extra stopping room. 2 more blocks on level ground to 2nd stop sign. They're pretty solid by then, however, I allow some room as it crosses a busy road. By the third stop sign 2 blocks after that, I'm good for tire smoking stops.

If I said 2 blocks, some wag would comment about blowing a stop sign on theirs.

Most "braking" issues come from improper brake pedal application, not from "bad" brake systems. 4 years of instructing at Driver Skills classes with 100's of students, I've seen/heard every excuse there is. Modern brake system are being setup to encourage first 1 inch braking, this is poor technique. Use the whole pedal for complete satisfaction.

If you ride motorcycles or bicycles, you don't want the brakes to lock the wheel as soon as you touch the brake handle. You want some travel so you can modulate the brake pressure. Same with a car.

The 1 inch requirement comes from looking up from your cell phone and having to stop in the last 5 feet. So the brakes engage ABS immediately and let the computer sort it out. /sour grapes

When I said 4 blocks to warm up, after that, they will be ok. Have you changed/bled your brakes lately? Re-bedded them? The delay in braking is not normal when at operating temps.

The delay only happened after long spells (10+ minutes) of highway speed engine braking in barely-above-freezing rain, where the rotors/pads would have cooled down well below normal operating temperatures.

I've been driving them in the same weather for months without any complaints - highway, city, and twisties. I suppose I could change my driving technique to use the brakes every once in a while on drives like that. The performance is fantastic otherwise; the DBA/HPS combo was installed and properly bedded this summer, and the ATE 200 fluid is only 4 months old.

The delay only happened after long spells (10+ minutes) of highway speed engine braking in barely-above-freezing rain, where the rotors/pads would have cooled down well below normal operating temperatures.

 

I've been driving them in the same weather for months without any complaints - highway, city, and twisties. I suppose I could change my driving technique to use the brakes every once in a while on drives like that. The performance is fantastic otherwise; the DBA/HPS combo was installed and properly bedded this summer, and the ATE 200 fluid is only 4 months old.

Proper braking technique is to apply 60% of braking pressure to settle the car and then goto 100% decreasing linearly to 0% as coming to a full stop or to what ever level gets around the impending disaster.

If you are in heavy traffic, running fast, back off on your following distance to allow extra time. Or lightly add braking to keep brakes warm, at speed, it takes only a brief tap to add enough heat into brakes to make them effective.

Thought this master window switch fix should be added to the master list just in case people are still having trouble with these:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stickey-window-switch-fixed-204451.html?t=204451&highlight=master+switch

These babies are pretty pricey, so I thought I would recognize the previous posts on the topic since I found them helpful. The first post being AWD_Warrior and the second being gt06unlimited (in order of post date).

Some cool stuff here if you want to personalize your LGT

https://www.facebook.com/MassSportDesigns

Wastegate pill information chart-good stuff to know. With this information, you can easily make your own pill if need be. I may make a bunch of them aand have them available.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/16/27a6adf62e2d46a705386f282f887d89.jpg