Another C.E.L thread!

Hello all!

 

I've done the search, i've done tests, and yet my dang light doesn't seem to go away!

 

I have a 99 LGT, throwing two codes! p0301 and p0302, Misfire cylinder #1 and 2, now then... it doesn't seem like there's a misfire.

 

Before the code came on... the car did pop after shifting (it's a 5 speed), after the code popped up and flashed, i checked the plugs and checked the gap but they were fine (i installed them about 2 months prior, no not coppers... i ended up getting Iridium plugs), switched plug wires to see if the code would hop... still no luck (new wires as well NGK wires)

 

After this i read about swapping injectors, so i swapped injectors #2 and #4, still throwing the same code!

 

At this point... i ordered the msd coil and plug from a neon, thinking the coil for #1 and 2 was going out, installed the coil and drove the car, no pop after i shifted this time but the code was still there! (yes i cleared the code)

 

Going to do a compression check and fuel pressure this weekend.

 

Anything else you guys might suggest?

 

Super frustrated! Only 2 months with the car and still doing payments on a car i can't drive >:|

Sounds like your on the right track to me. Let us know how the compression test and fuel pressure test go

two suggestions,

1/ get the plugs suabru specs for the engine.

2/ get a used igniter and try that. it feeds the coil in the same front vs. rear manner as the coil fires the plugs.

Did the compression check along with the fuel pressure test

 

150psi on all four with no leaks

 

The fuel pressure was at 28psi while car was idling, but when i turn ignition to on, the psi builds to 30psi then it crawls down to zero... Is that normal?

two suggestions,

1/ get the plugs suabru specs for the engine.

2/ get a used igniter and try that. it feeds the coil in the same front vs. rear manner as the coil fires the plugs.

 

Copper plugs right?

 

I'll go to the junkyards to try to get one.

Hello;

The fuel pressure should be 36psi and if you pinch the return line should show 60psi. In my case the filter in the tank was plugged solid and the underhood filter was full of junk! Thinking low fuel pressure is your misfire code, Steven.

Did you check fuel pressure on the correct line right? You could have a intake manifold gasket leak. While running spray carb spray where the gasket is and if the car stumbles then it's the gasket.

Hello;

The fuel pressure should be 36psi and if you pinch the return line should show 60psi. In my case the filter in the tank was plugged solid and the underhood filter was full of junk! Thinking low fuel pressure is your misfire code, Steven.

 

I did pinch the return line and it jumped to 70psi

 

I changed out the fuel filter along with the hoses for the fuel filter and the hoses for the filler neck,

 

After that the fuel pressure would be 30psi with the key turned and the system now holds 10psi at all times.

 

I still have the misfire codes for #1 and #2 but ontop of that! i now have a new code p0440

Did you check fuel pressure on the correct line right? You could have a intake manifold gasket leak. While running spray carb spray where the gasket is and if the car stumbles then it's the gasket.

 

Yes sir! exactly as specified in the manual and repair manual from the auto store.

 

I did spray carb spray while the engine was running, at the inlets of the intake mani, along with hoses and intake box, no luck...

Hello;

I would check the fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum line going to it. If the fuel pressure was only a couple of pounds off, I would say you were good. The pressure should hold and not leak down to 10psi. This indicates a bad regulator or a leaking injector. Also check the coil ignitor, Steven.

Back with an update!

 

Finally after months with the C.E.L!

 

Finally found out what the problem was!

 

Well... more like the car told me... heard metal to metal noise two days ago, apparently my timing belt jumped a tooth or two... metal sound was the piston greeting my valves! YAY! haha.

 

So hopefully i didn't bend the valves (sounded like it just started, as soon as i heard it, i shut it off and towed it home).

 

So what now? redo the timing and put new components and hope for the best? or take apart the head?

IMO once you've heard it it's too late. Perhaps you could fix the timing issue with the existing timing parts (assuming the parts themselves are OK to do so) and test the operation of the engine (someone can chime in if they feel doing so could result in further damage than what may have already happened). If it runs OK then replace the timing parts. If not it sounds as if a tear down is in order. Might be an opportunity to redo the engine and check things over anyway and set yourself up for a few more years out of the car...assuming you feel it's worth it.

i doubt you heard any valve to anything damage.

what you probably heard was the toothed idler losing its ball bearings.

and then the scream of an idler with no bearing.

and then depending on how long it ran,

maybe the timing jumped enough to bend valves.

 

but regardless of the cause, bent valves is usually the result.

 

the best approach is to replace the bad idler, used if you can find one,

you will probably also need a belt,

they tend to lose teeth when the idler dies.

and test drive the engine.

 

if it runs well, do a compression test.

if that is good, you got lucky.

then install ALL NEW timing components.

 

if it runs like crap,

or the compression is bad,

either replace the head or have it repaired.

and install ALL NEW timing components.

read this:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147866-i-must-be-one-of-the-lucky-ones-ej25d-skipped-time/#entry1241025

i doubt you heard any valve to anything damage.

what you probably heard was the toothed idler losing its ball bearings.

and then the scream of an idler with no bearing.

and then depending on how long it ran,

maybe the timing jumped enough to bend valves.

 

but regardless of the cause, bent valves is usually the result.

 

the best approach is to replace the bad idler, used if you can find one,

you will probably also need a belt,

they tend to lose teeth when the idler dies.

and test drive the engine.

 

if it runs well, do a compression test.

if that is good, you got lucky.

then install ALL NEW timing components.

 

if it runs like crap,

or the compression is bad,

either replace the head or have it repaired.

and install ALL NEW timing components.

 

Yeah i just read up and saw a video on it.

 

Looking at OEM parts and i noticed two different tensioners? one build in and another that has separate pulley and hydraulic tensioner?

 

trying to order now, so i can get the parts asap.

 

Thanks for info guys!

 

I'll definitely post pictures soon of my LGT

You should have the one piece tensioner if its the original motor.

Another awesome update!

 

So finally put everything together.

 

Aligned the timing marks, put everything back together, new crank wheel, woodruf key, pulleys, tensioner, water pump, and thermostat.

 

I go to turn the car on, it has trouble... been sitting for a couple months, finally turns on! roughly... then it just dies. Turn it on again, as soon as i even touch the gas pedal... it dies.

 

What the hell did i do wrong?

 

Getting tired of my LGT, only was able to drive it for 2 months, i'm still paying the dang thing off, paying for a car that literally doesn't run.

 

Help?

check the large vac hose that runs from the IAC to the under side of the plastic intake plenum.

 

it connects to the very bottom of the plenum and is almost impossible to see it is connected.

That hose is plugged in, checked all vacuum lines

 

everything seems fine, is it possible that my cams and crankshaft aren't really aligned after i aligned them?

 

Perhaps they are still off?

timing it the number one cause of a no start after major engine work.

 

i can't remember if you are working on a DOHC or a SOHC?

so pics for both.

 

 

 

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg240/johnceggleston/timingbeltdiagramej25.gif

 

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg240/johnceggleston/timingbeltdiagram.gif

I have the dohc, I put those marks exactly as mapped out, but one question....

 

My crank sprocket has a line mark and an arrow mark, is the line mark or the arrow supposed to be used for the timing mark? Maybe that's the issue.

 

I've been using the line rather than the arrow.

 

Arrow is on the front of the sprocket and the line is towards the rear of the sprocket but seeing the diagram, I'm doing it the correct way because the keyway is on the bottom.

 

The line mark aligned with the knock sensor line, making the arrow pointing towards cylinders 2 and 4.

I've been using the line rather than the arrow.

correct.

 

 

NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS.

 

is everything put back together?

is the maf plugged in?

Yes sir! Everything is plugged in, but still not staying on, perhaps I have a bent valve?

 

How would I know if the crankshaft is actually in the correct position?

 

Car attempts to turn over on the first time trying to turn it on, then it turns on after the second try but then it just slowly dies as if I had the major vacuum leak.

So i took it apart again and redid the timing marks

 

Still not staying on, all i want to do is drive my lgt again

 

Getting tired of driving my LS400 around, it is comfy... and has a custom exhaust from manifolds to tips... but it's not a 5 speed!

 

I think i might just get the motor out and take it all apart.

 

What do youuuuuuuu think?

fuel lines attached in the correct order?

 

all vac lines attached fully and correctly?

especially the large one, about the size of your thumb,

from the IAC to the dead bottom of the plastic intake plenum.

it is easy to miss because it is under the plenum.

 

similar headaches.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/emergency-timing-belt-help-1998-brighton-2-2-l-ej22e-228705p2.html