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Blown turbo at 60K, now seized engine at 74K


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Need some advise/suggestion here.

 

My 05 lgt 5MT had the familiar blown turbo problem over a year ago at 60K. Had it replaced with a used one and it seemed all fine. A couple of days ago the car stalled when idling at a stoplight and then the check engine and oil pressure lights went on. Maybe the engine sounded a little loud too if I recall now, but definitely not too abnormal. I was planning to have it checked this weekend. Yesterday it stalled repeatedly and eventually would not start (I drove it for about a mile total). Had it towed to a reputable shop and I was told the engine seized (not sure about the turbo, but it seemed fine).

 

So my first question is what could be the cause of the problem? I use synthetic oil and change it every 4-5K miles (maybe a little too long for the turbo but should not be too harsh for the engine itself). I drive modest and the only mod on the power train is a Cobb Access Port stage 1. I thought Subaru cars are particularly reliable and I really liked the car. But engine completely blown? I am at 74K miles now. My faith in this car is shaken, to say the least.

 

I would appreciate any suggestions about my options now. The shop quoted me $8K for swapping a used engine of 90K miles. Ridiculous? I am thinking of finding a cheap engine and have a friend (who helped me with the turbo replacement) put it in. Or maybe I should just bite the bullet and let the car go.

 

Thanks for reading.

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I'm no expert, but I just cant, for the life of me, understand why anyone would save a few dollars and stretch an oil change out 4-5k in these cars given all that has been written here about oil starved turbos and the importance of good oil.

 

I'm not saying that's what caused your problem, but if you had done ~3k changes you could have taken bad oil off the table as a possible cause, just say'in.

 

Second lesson I've learned about these cars is, ignore funny engine sounds at your own peril.

 

I know this wasn't very productive, but I wish you luck.

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This is mostly due to my inexperience in turbo cars and perhaps mistrust to synthetic oil. I use Mobil One full synthetic labeled for either 5K or 7.5K oil change intervals. BTW, using full synthetic every 4-5K is a much more expensive practice than regular oil at every 3K, but apparently not so good for the Legacy. I would like to hear how others use synthetic oil here.

 

The sound I had barely can be called "noise". It's not certain it was from the engine (there are so many things can make noises under the hood), and it lasted only for a mile before the engine breaking down! The lesson I learned is that our cars need much more care than an average one on street.

 

Good practice of car care aside, any ideas of what could have happened and how I can deal with this?

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My guess is when your turbo blew, it sent some debris to the engine and plugged an oil passage somewhere.

Or your broke your oil pickup tube. (search and you'll find the 05 is pretty susceptible to this)

 

Both of these are common problems that could have caused what happened.

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Search the forum, thare are dozens of "oil" threads....Here is one....

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-leggy-owner-transition-synthetic-w-high-mileagei-169934.html

 

Personally I use the OEM filters and I use synthetic. I'm using Mobile 1, but I'm considering Amsoil for my next change.

 

Here is what I know.

 

  • There are lot's of opinions here about what you should do and shouldn't do.
     
  • There are few majorities when it comes to opinions on oil.
     
  • One thing most agree on, lubrication is critical.

 

Again, sorry to hear about your situation. I hope you figure something out.

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Thanks guys for the information. I may end up swapping an used engine in. I'm afraid rebuilding would just open another can of worms. I will certainly stick to the 3k oil change interval if I get it revived.
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Lots of folks say don't use Mobil 1 Synthetic, its too thin. Our cars eat it. Rotella T6 5w40 ftw. Get into the the habit of checking your oil level often, like weekly or each fill up.

 

Our oil pressure lights don't go on until like 2psi, so they are really "replace engine" lights. Could be your oil pump pickup tube cracked too. You can pick up a brand new shortblock from your dealer or FredBeans (or a dealer off ebay) for just under $2k delivered if your heads or ok. For a little over $2k you can pick up some rebuilt blocks from Outfront Motorsports w/ forged pistons (he even sells them on ebay). Not sure I'd want to throw in a 90k questionable block and go through two replacements in short order. If you have the dealer replace it, you should be able to get a warranty, though you will pay more for the install.

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Many thanks to lieutenantcolumbo. That's some really useful info. How much labor is needed to install a short block assembly (assuming my cylinder head is good), say, comparing to what needed for an engine swap? Please bare with my ignorance, this would be much easier than rebuilding the engine, and safer than a used engine, right?
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$9k is way too high.

 

If part of the engine can be salvaged a new shortblock + labor is $3000+ for my local mechanic (Subaru specialist/expert) in Seacoast NH. That was the case for a Subaru LGT(red wagon) someone bought on the cheap and brought to get fixed.

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With regards to oil change interval every 4k-5k is not the problem. It may have been low or some other starvation issue occurred or neglectful previous owner.

 

My wife is a 4k oil changer since brand new with conventional oil on our 118k 2005 LGT with no engine/turbo work.

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Well, why take the risk of extending the oil change? $30 is better than $5000 IMO. Hell I was scared when I changed my oil at 3.8k last time. XD

 

4000 miles is barely "extended" interval. Subaru recommends 3750 miles severe.

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Similar situation. Blown turbo at 73k then blown engine four months later. When I say blown the engine didn't seize I had the problem checked out when I noticed an abnormal shudder and I ate through 5 quarts of oil in on oil change interval. They replaced the shortblock but kept old plugs/wires/etc. screw dealerships.

 

When I bought the car you could hear the turbo give a high pitched whistle noise. I thought it was cool but I've since found out this is a sign of the turbo going out.

 

IF/WHEN you have your engine replaced and they warranty the block get it looked at again before the warranty is up. My new block has a 12 month/unlimited mileage warranty and you can damn-well bet I'm going to take it in for a compression/drip test before it's up. $200 or not I'd rather have the piece of mind than shell out $3000+ on another engine in the near future.

 

If it makes sense I hope you get your car fixed and love your new Legacy. Use this as a learning experience. A lot of us will tell you it's a love/hate relationship.

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I did not notice any high pitched noise before the turbo is blown, which was a while ago. I did recall hearing something like this days before the engine died, very faint though. However, there is no other symptoms of a blown turbo this time, say, smoke coming off the exhaust.

 

Hey OP, what was very first symptom of blown turbo? i have a high pitched whistle at WOT around 3k
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My faith in this car is shaken, to say the least.

 

The shop quoted me $8K for swapping a used engine of 90K miles. Ridiculous? I am thinking of finding a cheap engine and have a friend (who helped me with the turbo replacement) put it in. Or maybe I should just bite the bullet and let the car go.

 

 

I feel your pain and yeah $8k is way too much I paid $5300 for a rebuilt short block, heads tested/Inspection/repaired, timing belt job, water pump replaced, and engine R & R. I eventually sold the car because I had zero faith in the cars reliability.

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Hey OP, what was very first symptom of blown turbo? i have a high pitched whistle at WOT around 3k

 

 

boost leaks can cause similar noises, check for loose hose clamps in the piping systems, snug them up with a flathead

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