BoozeRS05 Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 So I'm changing front brake pads and rotors by myself for the first time a couple days ago.. I get everything disassembled, and I get 3 of 4 pistons back in to the calipers, but one wouldn't budge with the c-clamp. The rubber dust boot is jacked up and the one piston will not move, it's on the front drivers caliper. I had to remount all the old pads and rotors b/c I need my car. The damaged caliper is making a bad clicking noise under moderate braking, but everything works fine during the limited driving I've done. I assumed the caliper was toast, and found a good used caliper from a junk yard. I need advice on how to proceed. Can I swap the caliper without having to do brake fluid again (fluid is maybe 10k miles old)? Anything else I need to consider? I was soo close and I don't want to have to pay a shop to finish the work.. Any help/guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Erik PS- I could not get the top 17mm bolt off the passenger side bracket either. Soaked several times with WD40, tried and tried, wouldn't break, any thoughts there? EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 its easy to put on a new caliper. just have to bleed the one caliper, not the whole system again. have a friend with an impact gun for the rusty bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 That's what I was thinking, I was told by a tech the whole fluid system needed done. No impact gun here, but I'll find one. Thanks for the quick response. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 10, 2010 I Donated Share Posted September 10, 2010 That's what I was thinking, I was told by a tech the whole fluid system needed done. No impact gun here, but I'll find one. Thanks for the quick response. Thats just BS trying to get extra sales. You just have to bleed it at the one wheel. There are copper fittings that go on the end of the brake line, make sure you change those out. Sometimes they will stick to the brake line, so make sure the old ones come off or you will leak brake fluid. As far as the stuck pin goes, try hitting your wrench with a hammer. Works kinda like a red neck impact wrench lol. Its saved me before when I was working outside of my shop without air tools. WD40 is crap, use something good like PB Blaster or Deep Creep (from SeaFoam). Heat also works wonders, you can use a torch to heat up the bolt. A scalding hot bolt comes out A LOT easier then a normal one. Come to think of it, you don't even have to take both the bolts out. You can just flip up the caliper and then push it backwards....the pin and everything will come out with it. If you do it this way, you will have to buy a new caliper pin set (no more then 15 bucks) unless you're able to get the old pin out. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 Good stuff, gonna have to try some heat on that bolt. Will be nice to have fresh brakes. The other day was a huge waste of time w/ plenty of bruises and swearing over that stuck bolt and caliper. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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