ffrpwner Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 So I've been searching around and I'm pretty sure I know all I need but i figure I would post up just to make sure. I am going to buy coilovers in the next month or so. My alignment guy said that he could barely do any adjustments due to everything being rusted together. Is this something you guys have run into before. I just need to know what I should replace since ill be down there when I do my coils. Also need to know any tricks on breaking things loose. I have PB Blaster and air tools. I'm just hoping I'm not gunna need to touch stuff. Thanks for any help guys . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 To get the front struts off and c/o on, you'll have to remove the two bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle, so there's your front camber adjustment. While you're down there make sure you can move the locknuts on the tie rod ends, the alignment shop will have to loosen those for toe adjustment. Replacing the rear shocks and putting in the c/o's does not require you to loosen the alignment bolts, but there are two bolts in the rear that adjust toe. These are the inner eccentric bolts on the rearmost lateral link, the curved one. If these are seized you'll need to cut them out with a grinder most likely. Not too much clearance for a torch or sawzall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffrpwner Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 I want to lower the car 2-2.5 inches all around. When I do this I'm going to replace as much as I can. Any recomendations for the best place to get replace ment bolts? I wanna make sure all is well so I don't eat through tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 fred beans parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Just grab the rear toe bolts (complete, with cam washers and nuts) from the dealer. My guy had to cut off head and nut on both bolts. He used about 6 blades with a sawzall. I had previously heated them until I could just smell the rubber bushing, then blasted the heads with an upside-down can of compressed air (cold fluid shoots out). This was intended to heat up the bolt and crush tube, then rapidly shrink just the bolt. It worked, too. Once. For the second alignment, they were seized up beyond fixing. I went with the Whiteline kit, which doesn't require cam bolts, but I already had them. And they fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Loctite Freeze & Release may work on your rusted bolts. http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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