NSFW Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 How the **** do you run new wires through the Z-shaped rubber tube that carries the factory wiring harness between the door and the frame? I fought with it for 20-30 minutes and gave up. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 In for an answer! I'd like to know as well. Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hansvonaxion Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I used stock wires so I don't know what you're talking about, but... connect new wires to old wires and pull through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bomberlegacy Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 gotta take all the tape and zip ties off to make sure everything is loose. I crimped the new wire onto the factory wire, sprayed everything down with wd40 and worked it through. wasn't tooo bad. lube made a huge difference '08 Legacy 2.5i - hybrid intake - delta 1000 - E85 - magnaflow exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted September 12, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted September 12, 2011 for the front doors, remove black tape around rubber insulator, then remove rubber fittings from the door and door jam itself, then feed the wire with lube. I just did this, by far the worst part about the whole project. good luck "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Might be a pain, but at least you get a rubber hose to run the wires through instead of a "door molex" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted September 12, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted September 12, 2011 ya true. really is pretty satisfying once your finished. NSFW, I hope your not using 12 guage like I mistakingly did, uuuuuuugh that makes it worse "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prelude Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Okay to remove the end of the tube from the door. but NEVER remove the other end of rubber tube from the chassis... I ended using silicone to glue the tube back... but if you remove both ends, you can get the wire through with a chopstick and some lubricant... first step http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/STEREO/017-5.jpg second step http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/STEREO/021-1.jpg third step http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/STEREO/022-3.jpg then, after fighting with that tube for 30 minutes and unable to re-attach it back to chassis... i used... http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/STEREO/031-2.jpg and it served its purpose http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/STEREO/035.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted September 13, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted September 13, 2011 is it that big of a deal to remove it? it will still pop most of the way back in "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prelude Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 the lower end (to the chassis) won't snap back in place as easy as the other end... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hansvonaxion Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Glad I used the original wiring! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bomberlegacy Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Its really not that hard as long as you take the zip ties and tape off..and lube it up. It took me 10-15 min per door. '08 Legacy 2.5i - hybrid intake - delta 1000 - E85 - magnaflow exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPERBU Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Do your self a favor. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a bag of the 3 foot long zip-ties. You won't find a better snake for getting under carpet and through door jams. Tape the wire to the zip-tie, spray some WD40 or silicone spray and yank. Refrain from coat hangers or metal antennas. They can short out wires in the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zephrant Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 What gauge wires are people using? I take it the factory ones are 18ga or so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 What gauge wires are people using? I take it the factory ones are 18ga or so? 14 gauge should be plenty for most people. Some swear you need 12 gauge, but unless you're running a pretty powerful amp, 14 gauge will do the job just fine. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 14 gauge should be plenty for most people. Some swear you need 12 gauge, but unless you're running a pretty powerful amp, 14 gauge will do the job just fine. LOL, factory is 14AWG? That's massive. And the wire is at most going on 7 years old in an '05. 12AWG up front to anything less than 8" midbasses getting 150WRMS a channel is overkill, IMHO. Like a bazooka for a gnat overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Haha no factory is probably 18 or 20. I meant running aftermarket 14 gauge would be plenty. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Haha no factory is probably 18 or 20. I meant running aftermarket 14 gauge would be plenty. Oh, yeah 20 gauge would suck. So would 18. Yeah, what was I thinking with our crappy stock stereo, Subaru would use 14 AWG wire, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 NEVER remove the other end of rubber tube from the chassis... I ended using silicone to glue the tube back... I read this and thought to myself, "oh how hard could it be to pop a grommet back into place?" So I went ahead and pulled it off. Well you're right, it's a giant pain to get it back on...if it's possible. That said, I don't know if I could have gotten my wire run without pulling it off. Anybody figure out a method to reattach the lower end of the rubber tube to the car? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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