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2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal


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another trick to keep the inner crush washer stays in place is to "glue" it with Vaseline before unscrew the union screw, make sure the engine is cold when you do this.

Wipe them clean afterward.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/union%20bolt/IMG_6627.jpg

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I ended up just paying to have my timing belt and CV replaced as I don't have the time to do it myself right now. Plus I honestly hate working on the Subaru. Just not much room under the hood compared to my truck.

 

Anyway had the mechanic just remove the banjo filter. After 104k of Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance it was perfectly clean. I run 8-12K service intervals. I don't see consumption issues. My wife does not drive the car very hard.

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Just did this myself and found the filter to be absolutely clean. I run a product called a Magna-Filter which screws in over the oil filter port and then you screw the filter over that and the oil passes through the magnets into the filter. I haven't done the front one as of yet, but that is next on the list. I read HammerDown's thread on how to get it out and I think that it is absolutely worth the effort. The only thing he did that I think I have found an easier way is to use a high speed metal cutting saw to remove the tit off of the back of the bolt. I haven't done it yet but I believe it will saw the tit off easily and without removing so many parts.

 

MaxCapacity is absolutely correct when he says to check the oil on these cars. They DO eat it regularly, at least in the 3 I've owned and the 2 my brother has owned. I have the only turbo car out of the bunch but even the NA 2.5's seem to use it. I also have taken to removing the turbo oil feed line every couple of oil changes and blowing it out to make sure it has nothing in it.

 

I have been running Mobil 1 and haven't read much complimentary on here about it but I hate to switch midstream due to different ketones and additives being in various motor oils. Has anyone switched with any undue results and what did you switch to from the Mobil 1?

 

Thanks

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I have been running Mobil 1 and haven't read much complimentary on here about it but I hate to switch midstream due to different ketones and additives being in various motor oils. Has anyone switched with any undue results and what did you switch to from the Mobil 1?

 

Thanks

 

I can post up my most recent UOA and let you decide for yourself on M1. My first sample was M1 and after that, the wear metals started getting out of control. The M1 also sheared down to the lowest viscosity out of any of the oils I've used.

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You can change oil brands at any time. People do it all the time.

 

If you have a sawzal with a good blade it should cut that tip off pretty easy. LOL

 

It may be a good idea to buy a new bolt. Cut the head off it if needed.

 

It can't cost but a few bucks. If you don't need it you can always return it.

 

That magnet-filter is only going to pick up some of the ferrous metals not all of them.

But it's at least picking up the crank shaft metal.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I have been running Mobil 1 and haven't read much complimentary on here about it but I hate to switch midstream due to different ketones and additives being in various motor oils. Has anyone switched with any undue results and what did you switch to from the Mobil 1?Thanks

Only used M1 for one change cycle but after the free dealer change (Quaker State) I switched to Rotella T6 for a few. Then switched to 3 changes of Amsoil OE and saw my oil consumption fall somewhat. Switched to 3 changes of Amsoil European and now am on the Signature Series. The latter has held up the best according to my UOA's that I've been doing since the change from the OE.

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Which Signature Series are you using ?

I'm using the 5w-30, which is what I used when I was on the OEM. Went back to 5w-40 for the European, at least partially because the 30-weight wasn't available at the time. The Sig Ser is the same price as the European and starts with a much better TBN.

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Here's a thread/review on the MagnaFilter:

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2197614

 

Here's the website for MagnaFilter:

 

http://www.magnafilter.com.au/magna-filter.html

 

I got mine while working a booth at PMI show a couple of years ago. I'm not sure how much they cost but I have seen one cut open after 35K miles and the amount of detritus on it was significant.

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This site actually has the part numbers and prices-around $30. I read on a different site that they were available on ebay although I haven't looked.

 

http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store/euro_magnafilter.html

 

Here they are on ebay but they're about $40.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGNAFILTER-MAGNETIC-OIL-PRE-FILTER-By-BOSS-Components-/150572396316?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230ed06f1c&vxp=mtr

Edited by JmP6889928
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Well after having the new banjo bolt and shorty 17mm wrench for over 2 1/2 years and my IP&T filtered oil line since soon after they were released I finally was externally motivated to get to this today. With my over-advance CEL and the dealer recommending replacing this and the driver side filters I decided I would tackle it and save the money. I found that removing the turbo shield and the hoses that connect to the top of the rocker "compartment" made things quite a bit easier to get at the banjo bolt. In fact I couldn't see how I would be able to do it if I left the shield in place. And the shorty 17mm wrench appeared to be a necessity due to the proximity to the inside fender wall. When I pulled out the bolt I could see that it wasn't fully clean and I wanted to really be able to see its condition so got the filter out and then carefully cut the plastic frame and slit the element so I could flatten it out and see through it. The inside of the screen was black and when held up to the light I was relieved to see that it was only approximately 50% blocked. I would have been a lot happier had it been a lot cleaner but with almost 160,000 miles on it maybe that's too much to expect.

 

I also checked the OCV's and the one on the turbo side is not moving easily. It's possible I tweaked it enough getting it past the reservoir bracket to jam it up but putting the opposite force on it doesn't seem to release the piston to spring back. I don't really want to take the time and effort but I'm now thinking that with the CEL's, increased wear metals in my UOA, and the possibly jammed OCV it would be a wise move to pull the DP enough (is it possible to just do the turbo end end move it out of the way?) and check my shaft play. If it's bad I guess I'll also be installing the BNR 16g and my sTi UP that have been sitting on the shelf for 2 years.

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Tried to tackle this today, and did not have a 17mm shorty wrench... ended up giving up and putting everything back together. Have a 17mm short wrench on order from Ebay now.

 

BUT here's something to note:

 

You do not need a U-joint or swivel or anything like that to remove the 14mm bolt and nut. You probably should have the deep socket to remove the nut, but I was able to do it with a normal socket.

 

Instead of the U-joint, use a 8" (or 10" I think, I forgot) socket extension and you can clear everything vertically. Very simple that way.

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You do not need a U-joint or swivel or anything like that to remove the 14mm bolt and nut. You probably should have the deep socket to remove the nut, but I was able to do it with a normal socket.

 

Instead of the U-joint, use a 8" (or 10" I think, I forgot) socket extension and you can clear everything vertically.

Yes, I was able to remove the front bracket bolt without the U-joint after dropping mine and not having it hit the floor. Can't recall for sure if I used a U-joint for the other one but if possible 1/2" drive is better because there's too much flex in 3/8 drive extensions and the socket is deeper. You might need to get it started with a breaker bar. For the front bolt I put the socket on the head and then threaded the extension down through to engage it.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey there,

 

My car: 2005 Outback XT, 2.5T, 186k km's (115k mi). Just bought the car, and it runs great. I'm about to do a timing belt swap and an oil change.

 

What is the consensus on removing the filter? Also, can someone provide the part number for OEM subaru so I can order one from my dealer/online?

 

after 60+ pages I cant decide to keep it or not, but I will replace it after all these KM's at the very least. I would love a concise answer on this one.

 

Thanks!

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Run synthetic with low OCI's, and keep your banjo bolt filter (check and replace the part if you do not a full oil service history on this vehicle)....for street use, do not use any synthetic with higher viscosity than 5W30....Mobil 1 sells a European formula 0W40 that works great in these motors and sells off the shelf in Super Walmarts....the part number for the banjo bolt/filter combination is identified in this forum....but if you can't find it with a google search, pm me with your VIN and I will run it through Subaru FAST (the parts database)...
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The safest thing to do is leave it in, but the caveat is that you have to check and clean it regularly. If you don't want to deal with that, take it out. Infamous makes (or you could fab your own) a filter relocation kit that makes it super easy to check the filter. It was worth it to me to put it on.
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Run synthetic with low OCI's, and keep your banjo bolt filter (check and replace the part if you do not a full oil service history on this vehicle)....for street use, do not use any synthetic with higher viscosity than 5W30....Mobil 1 sells a European formula 0W40 that works great in these motors and sells off the shelf in Super Walmarts....the part number for the banjo bolt/filter combination is identified in this forum....but if you can't find it with a google search, pm me with your VIN and I will run it through Subaru FAST (the parts database)...

 

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for. I will call my dealer and grab a new bolt/filter, and save to buy the infamous kit. OCI will be every 5000k (a little under 3750 miles), Castrol Syntech 5w30 and bosch filters. Perfect.

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Just want to offer one suggestion based on some discussions here. You may want to use an oem oil filter. On *some* aftermarket oil filters, the bypass valve (the one that can open and send unfiltered crud into the engine/banjo filters/etc) may open at a much lower psi than an oem unit.

 

It's totally your choice, but I think this bypass valve pressure rating is a pretty big deal, and using a filter that opens it prematurely could explain why there would be any crud in any banjo filters at all (in theory there shouldn't be).

Edited by heiche
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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I'd like to also remind that there is another banjo bolt filter behind the timing belt cover on the driver side. Good luck trying to access that one, though HAMMER DOWN found a way to check it. Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Fortunately, the second banjo bolt (that feeds oil pressure to the driver's side AVCS) is not as significant as the one that feeds the turbo. However, in the unfortunate circumstance that there may have been long OCI's or poor grade oil used by a previous owner, this second one should also be checked/replaced.
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Fortunately, the second banjo bolt (that feeds oil pressure to the driver's side AVCS) is not as significant as the one that feeds the turbo. However, in the unfortunate circumstance that there may have been long OCI's or poor grade oil used by a previous owner, this second one should also be checked/replaced.

As a guide on how much might it be worth to access the driver's side filter, I recently pulled both (~156k with only partially known previous OCI history). The turbo side was blocked about 50% and the driver side was still clear by about 75%. Obviously your car might be different. I replaced the turbo side with the IP&T filtered oil line and the other side with a new filtered bolt with the nipple on the top ground off to make it easier to remove if there's a next time.

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