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Door Lock Actuator Problems


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You have to switch the armature out for sure. Tried it without switching it out and it just spins. Switched them out and worked like a charm. Thanks for the info guys!
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2 mths now since I had mine done after 1st attempt failed to work after one wk because I did not glue the case together but just tape it around instead. The contact got intermittent where the plastic pressing it against the contacts wasn't wrap around securely. Since then I applied superglue and at the same time reinforce with cable tie... works perfect till now.
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  • 1 month later...

First of all..... Thanks Chrisay for the tutorial, simple and step by step!

 

Easy to fix up. I used the ebay motor's parts as in the tutorial... easily done and perfect fixed... Back to the car an running perfect!

 

Some money saved by the way.... I also have to say that just in case I asked for 2 motors, because I imagine another door's lock should be also near the fail...

 

Thanks again! Easily changed the thing in less than 2 hours work. :):):)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I followed the instructions, and completed the job no problems.

 

Here are two extra tips -

 

On the front door, remove the window runner bolt, this gives and extra 2mm of clearance, and the lock assembly slips straight past, otherwise it takes ages to try and get it past it. The back doors are different and you dont need to do this (it is the gold bolt in the bottom of the door )

 

With the lock assembly, there is no need to plastic weld or glue it back togther. On the top side there is a dimple from the injection mould. There are two dimples, one has nothing on the other side - drill this one out with a 1/16 drill bit then just put a screw through it - takes 30 secs and it is really solid

 

If I had to do it again - it would take 10 minutes per door, I bought the motors from DLUX cars on ebay 5x Motors shipped to Australia for $30

 

Again big thanks to the original poster Chrisay- $30 total vs $300 per door from the Subaru dealer......

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The screw is a good idea, but, keep in mind that the motor housing has to be sealed tight against water and/or moister. I recommend to use both a screw and a glue or silicone on the housing edge and on the screw.
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  • 6 months later...
Great to hear Tighttrash, looks like your actuator unit has allowed moisture in, unfortunately this also happened to one of my repaired ones, as Amirz said make sure they are well sealed when closing them up. Hope you get many more years trouble free out of the new motors.
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  • 5 months later...
Chrisay, thanks so much for your write up! Both rear actuators on my 04 Legacy were bust, the Tauranga Subaru dealership quoted $785 to repair but I stumbled across this forum and fixed it myself for next to nothing. Stoked!
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  • 2 months later...
I read the write ups but still can't figure out how to get the driver's door lock actuator out. Do I also need to remove the 3 screws securing the latch (pic #1)? If so, then how do I get around detaching it from the door handle connection (pic #2)? I know I'm probably overlooking something easy. Thanks in advanced. FJ60

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[FONT=Comic Sans MS][B][I]"Sweep the leg!" - Sensei Kreese, Karate Kid [/I][/B][/FONT]
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I read the write ups but still can't figure out how to get the driver's door lock actuator out. Do I also need to remove the 3 screws securing the latch (pic #1)? If so, then how do I get around detaching it from the door handle connection (pic #2)? I know I'm probably overlooking something easy. Thanks in advanced. FJ60

 

Hi, yes remove the screws. The connector will 'pop' out from memory or require slight manipulation.

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Hi, yes remove the screws. The connector will 'pop' out from memory or require slight manipulation.

 

Thanks for the reply! I'll keep working at it.

[FONT=Comic Sans MS][B][I]"Sweep the leg!" - Sensei Kreese, Karate Kid [/I][/B][/FONT]
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Still no luck. I undid the hinged plactic cover and released the connecting rod on the left (I'm afraid it will be a pain to reattach), but I can't find a way to disconnect the right side rod. I'm assuming the entire plastic unit needs to come out as a whole, right?

2006268867_connectorpicIMG_0310.jpg.d4b2bcb009779178ae94a282bbd6b55d.jpg

[FONT=Comic Sans MS][B][I]"Sweep the leg!" - Sensei Kreese, Karate Kid [/I][/B][/FONT]
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I gave up the ghost and called the dealership and was quoted $293 for the repair. Nearly $300 was motivation enough to take another look and I finally got it out! Whew!
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][B][I]"Sweep the leg!" - Sensei Kreese, Karate Kid [/I][/B][/FONT]
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  • 2 months later...

Just for interest's sake - does anyone know what the specific "Genuine part" number is? My faulty door is the right rear but wouldn't mind knowing how much our dealers here would like to rip me off for the part. :lol:

 

Would be easier to be able to quote the exact part number I'm after.

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I also have a question. For those whose actuators have failed, are you also unable to unlock the door with the latch by hand? That is what has happened occasionally for me on the right rear door. Won't unlock with the power unlock or manually.
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I also have a question. For those whose actuators have failed, are you also unable to unlock the door with the latch by hand? That is what has happened occasionally for me on the right rear door. Won't unlock with the power unlock or manually.

 

Yes the handle just doesn't catch. The trick I've learned to fix it is to hold the handle half way and toggle the lock switch or key fob lock unlock and pull back to open. It'll catch if you time it right.

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I also have a question. For those whose actuators have failed, are you also unable to unlock the door with the latch by hand? That is what has happened occasionally for me on the right rear door. Won't unlock with the power unlock or manually.

 

If you mean the drivers side central locking button/switch...then yes...eventually, if I toggle it off and on about 3-4 times. :mad:

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Yes the handle just doesn't catch. The trick I've learned to fix it is to hold the handle half way and toggle the lock switch or key fob lock unlock and pull back to open. It'll catch if you time it right.

OK, thanks. Looks like I'll be taking a look at the actuator then.

 

If you mean the drivers side central locking button/switch...then yes...eventually, if I toggle it off and on about 3-4 times. :mad:

I was talking about the actual (manual) door lock on the door itself. Not the power lock switch.

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