Koni inserts built with '13 OEM housing

STOP!!!

MY INSERTS DID NOT ACTUALLY GO INTO OEM HOUSING BUT INTO KYB WRX STRUTS.

I CANNOT CONFIRM FITMENT FOR OEM LEGACY STRUTS BUT I WILL TELL YOU THAT IM HAPPIER THIS WAY. THERE IS A SLIGHT ADDITIONAL DROP IN THE FRONT.

SKIP TO PAGE FIVE FOR MY KYB WRX SETUP.

SKIP TO PAGE THREE FOR TYTEKS WRX SETUP.

Big thanks to ScoobyGT for trying out the WRX suspension and confirming fitment.

I had taken the information from Subaru parts as golden and allowed them to order donor struts. I went ahead with the build only to find out after installation that my ride height was a bit off in the front.

I was able to confirm that the part numbers I got from subaru were not correct because I could see on my OEM pieces that my original struts had different numbers than those provided by Subaru.

As far as the rears, I did a "rough" measurement of the koni rears versus OEM rears, and it looks like they are both roughly 5 3/8" from the spring perch to the center of the bolt hole. If the konis were lower, then I would skip the legacy struts and go with WRX struts since WRX struts will put you about 1" lower than legacy struts.

After installation, I was able to measure the OEM rears, and I got 5 1/2". This means the koni rears will set the car 1/8" lower. This is close enough. In fact, my measurement can be off + or - 1/8", so you decide.

The following is a "skeleton" of what you need to do. Not sure if a complete write-up is necessary. At the moment, they are just built. They are not yet installed. I will update with install and feedback down the road.

correct donor struts for MY car are:

20310aj07a L???

20310aj06a R???

NOTE: double check your part number per your own VIN

koni inserts are:

8610-1453 Front TR is 1453SPORT

8610-1055 Rear TR is 1055SPORT

Subaru parts gave me the wrong part numbers and ordered struts for what I believe to be from an outback.

So, I managed to get the konis in there, but there were a very tight squeeze.

OEM ride height:

FL: 27 3/4

FR: 28

RL: 27 3/4

RR: 27 7/8

koni rears, rce springs, ouback housing??? with koni inserts:

FL: 27 1/4

FR: 27 5/8

RL: 27

RR: 27 1/4

NOTE: wrong donor struts were used thanks to Subaru parts and my stupidity for not double-checking. (04-21-13)

MY CORRECT AND REAL SETUP IS HERE:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4409394&postcount=66

AND HERE:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4409409&postcount=67

Was that last picture with the L R taped the finished product? Or did you still need to pull that last bit of exposed insert in?

Just curious why you didn't stop at 4", and fit the insert in instead.

I have a Rockwell Jawhouse, it saved my butt a few times already. Extremely handy, and when you don't need it, it can be quickly be folded down for storage.

http://toolguyd.com/rockwell-jawhorse-sheetmaster-review/

Anyway, thanks for being the first to do this!!!!!! Can't wait to hear your review on the ride!

First, I want to say great job this took a lot of effort and time and I'm sure everyone appreciates that. After driving on this crappy suspension for 2.5 yrs I can't imagine the difference these will make and right in time for summer too!

The only thing I noticed when I saw the pics , and I'm probably repeating what Scooby said, was that the strut body seems like it should line up with the top of the insert(where the red line is). I've never dealt with inserts before so I could be wrong but it seems that the insert needs to go in another 1".

The only thing I noticed when I saw the pics , and I'm probably repeating what Scooby said, was that the strut body seems like it should line up with the top of the insert(where the red line is). I've never dealt with inserts before so I could be wrong but it seems that the insert needs to go in another 1".

I think they were cut shorter for future maintenance (remove/replace) purposes.

It is easier to take our the inserts with that setup but I could be wrong.

I think they were cut shorter for future maintenance (remove/replace) purposes.

It is easier to take our the inserts with that setup but I could be wrong.

Not really sure I follow you on that one. I would think if that's the way the manufacturer intended them there should be only one way to install them. In order for the insert stay secure in the housing they should be fully inserted. By not having the correct length strut body or having the insert too far out it might cause problems when driving.

I'm not sure what they lifespan of the Koni inserts is but hopefully it's at least 40-50k. That's a positive aspect of the possible future Bilstein's. They should last 100k or more. The build quality is greater in terms of durability as you'll find on any suspension option. I've run the Koni FSB and they only lasted 40k.

Was that last picture with the L R taped the finished product? Or did you still need to pull that last bit of exposed insert in?

 

Just curious why you didn't stop at 4", and fit the insert in instead.

 

I have a Rockwell Jawhouse, it saved my butt a few times already. Extremely handy, and when you don't need it, it can be quickly be folded down for storage.

http://toolguyd.com/rockwell-jawhorse-sheetmaster-review/

 

Anyway, thanks for being the first to do this!!!!!! Can't wait to hear your review on the ride!

First, I want to say great job this took a lot of effort and time and I'm sure everyone appreciates that. After driving on this crappy suspension for 2.5 yrs I can't imagine the difference these will make and right in time for summer too!

 

The only thing I noticed when I saw the pics , and I'm probably repeating what Scooby said, was that the strut body seems like it should line up with the top of the insert(where the red line is). I've never dealt with inserts before so I could be wrong but it seems that the insert needs to go in another 1".

I followed the way it was done for the WRX in the nasoic forum.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1219607

Also, if you take a close look at the insert, you will see that it gets a bit wider near the top. The instructions that came with Koni did not show the insert going in all the way. In reality, it is supposed to be snug with the nubs or I am to use a supplied "washer" if the housing is wider than the nubs.

I don't believe Koni intended the housing to go all the way up to the neck.

http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf

Take a look at the last picture, and you see the housing just going over the nubs and the rubber piece covering the rest.

By the way, in the nasoic and the koni pdf, a 9/16" bit was used. I believe that is too big. I suggest you go no wider than 1/2" in order to keep the tolerance a bit tighter and just file away any rough stuff.

Cheers,

Fredrik

Thanks Fredrik I can see what your saying. I found a install video for a different car on youtube and they also had the insert the same as your pics.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your review of these once you get them on the car. Again, thanks for taking the time to do this I'm definitely going this route when I get the money together.

My Koni inserts and RCE blacks are on the way. Also got 08+ WRX front donor struts. Plan to install next weekend. Will take plenty of pics and advise of the results.

It is best to go full soft on the Konis for street use, and almost full hard on the track. Even at full soft, I know from previous experience with Koni suspension that the ride will be stiff.

Thanks for the write up Fredrik.

My Koni inserts and RCE blacks are on the way. Also got 08+ WRX front donor struts. Plan to install next weekend. Will take plenty of pics and advise of the results.

 

It is best to go full soft on the Konis for street use, and almost full hard on the track. Even at full soft, I know from previous experience with Koni suspension that the ride will be stiff.

 

Thanks for the write up Fredrik.

You're welcome...but a word of advice: Your front end will end up 1" shorter if you use the WRX housing. Their spring perch is lower than the Legacy perch.

Cheers,

Fredrik

You're welcome...but a word of advice: Your front end will end up 1" shorter if you use the WRX housing. Their spring perch is lower than the Legacy perch.

 

Cheers,

Fredrik

Yeah, I did see that in the other thread. Will take a bunch of measurements to see if the OD and ID are the same between '09 WRX and '11 LGT strut housings. ID will obviously be hard to do in an non-destructive manner, so I will only do it if the OD turns out significantly different. Otherwise, I'll sell the '09 WRX OEM suspension I acquired, to help recover some cost.

I'd really prefer to use the LGT hardware to house the inserts. But donor struts appeal to me due to the fact that I can mount inserts ahead of time and have less work to do during the actual suspension swap.

Are '13 LGT strut bodies any different than '11 LGT? I know that they are valved differently, but would think should otherwise be the same. Right?

Wouldn't it make more sense to pick up a set of KYB GR-2 OEM replacements for the front. All the specs should be the same as stock, they will be new, and they will probably be cheaper that buying a factory part from the dealer.

It may work...

The "new" struts I ordered that came from a subaru dealer had "KYB" stamped on them. But, the part number was "subaru" not "KYB". Not sure if this stamp exists on my OEM struts. I will update if so.

I hesitated to get the KYB because it is an unknown variable.

Cheers!

What did you pay for the OEM piece that we now know is a KYB?

$105 maybe??? It was an online order.

Is it KYB...is it KYB made for Subaru...was I sent a KYB product instead??? I don't know.

I do know that KYB does not have an application for the '13...supposedly.

If I get around to taking a picture, I will post it.

Cheers!

Correct, they don't list anything for 2013. The KYB part number for 2010-2012 is 339223 (FL) and 339222 (FR). Is that stamped anywhere on the housing?

It looks like the KYB pieces can be had for about $75.

KYB is one of the OEMs for Subaru. My original 2013 front/rear dampers were stamped KYB. They probably haven't release the 2013+ parts to consumers yet.

Showa is another OEM, I believe the 4th gen stuff were made by them. From the look of the parts, KYB is much better quality.

KYB stamp...open in new tab and look at lower left.

I wonder if this has anything to do with Bilstein not being able to source a part for their strut.

So Fredrik, you bought the 08+ WRX Koni Rears too, right? Have you had a chance to measure the spring perch location from the lower mounting and compare it to your OEM's?

" 1. Source '13 legacy struts, koni inserts for '08+ WRX and koni rears for '08+ WRX"

I did a rough measurement and it seemed dead-on...will update with exact numbers after install.

Cheers,

Fredrik

Rears needed to be drilled 2mm wider to allow the konis.

 

So the strut rod hole in the rear tophats needed to be made bigger?

The only thing I noticed when I saw the pics , and I'm probably repeating what Scooby said, was that the strut body seems like it should line up with the top of the insert(where the red line is). I've never dealt with inserts before so I could be wrong but it seems that the insert needs to go in another 1".

I've done the inserts on a few cars. The top cap does not need to go down to the cut top of the strut housing.

Also, if you take a close look at the insert, you will see that it gets a bit wider near the top. The instructions that came with Koni did not show the insert going in all the way. In reality, it is supposed to be snug with the nubs or I am to use a supplied "washer" if the housing is wider than the nubs.

The nubs must be pulled into the cut-down housing for the correct fit. As you mention, if the housing is larger than expected the shim may be used to get the correct fit.

So the strut rod hole in the rear tophats needed to be made bigger?

Yes. The Koni has the adjuster rod passing through the shaft so it in turn has to be thicker if it's going to be strong enough. The bushing in the top mount is quite a free-cutting steel. Very easy job even with a household electric drill.

I updated the first post.

I had a chance to see the car in daylight and the front right was definetely off. I put the car in the garage and measured it facing both directions just to be sure. Front and rear facing did not seem to make a difference.

Here are my findings:

OEM ride height:

FL: 27 3/4

FR: 28

RL: 27 3/4

RR: 27 7/8

koni rears, rce springs, oem housing with koni inserts:

FL: 27 1/4

FR: 27 5/8

RL: 27

RR: 27 1/4

NOTE: I don't know if the install was done improperly to cause the FR to be off by so much. I will take the car in next week.

It is starting to wear on me.......