FireB Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 I have successfully installed the WBO2 (LC-1 to be exact) and it is not reading properly. That is with properly calibrated O2 Sensor. The gap of AFR between the 2 seems kind of fishy. Please take a look at the 2 spread sheet. 1st is the cold idle 2nd is the warm idle I have made the Deviance Column on the right side to see the differences between NB and WB. Also this goes for the people who has the LC-1. Do you use the "Calibrate" Button on the LogWorks as well after your manual Calibration with the Red Buttons? Thanks romraiderlog_20100105_084518.csvromraiderlog_20100105_084139.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 you may have a leak somewhere...did you tighten the 02 sensor nice and tight? My thinking is that while idling higher the exhaust gasses are moving at a higher speed and therefore both 02 sensors are picking up (more or less) the same reading. When the idle is lower..there is less exhaust speed and therefore air from the outside has more time to make it's way into the exhaust stream and lean out your wb02 reading..just a guess. The variance on my logs look like your cold idle log... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Oh boy... so that could me that I might have a leak somewhere from the Header to the Down Pipe..... It does make sense since the metal expand as it gets hotter.... Ohhhh boy, maybe looking at something I really don't wanna get involved in when it is this cold outside!! Probably have to get underneath the car and see each mating point to see if there are suts? Let me do some WOT runs today and see if it will ready correctly, or some numbers close to what I had couple of months ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 You should try some off boost highway cruising logs...I bet 02 readings will be really close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Ahh, I will try that also!Thanks for your idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Here is the regular cruise with no boost romraiderlog_20100105_174813.csv Here is the WOT 3rd Gear Pull romraiderlog_20100105_175412.csv It seems like it is working well on a WOT but that might just be my misconception. Does anyone also know why the Ignition Timing gets less right at the edge of Vacuum and positive PSI? Sorry, still a newb when it comes to tuning and I just want to get as much information at once as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostin1657615274 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You are getting these readings directly from logworks? Through a serial connection with the LC1? Also, where is the factory front O2 sensor located on the 08's ? On the search for a new DD... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 You are getting these readings directly from logworks? Through a serial connection with the LC1? Also, where is the factory front O2 sensor located on the 08's ? The readings are coming straight from Rom Raider with using the LC-1 as the Plug-ins. Then it shows on the definition Named as LC-1 on the excel sheet as you see it. I have a Serial to USB Connector that I use. The factory O2........... From the manual, it said that it is on the passenger's side header. Which makes the distance between that and the DP pretty close too.... I wonder the difference in readings. The WBO2 is about 3 inches before the first cat on the DP. I know it is probably not the best place but that was the only place to put a hole as Perrin has divorced pipe for the WG. Maybe the diverted exhaust gas from the wasteagte side is tumbling and making a funky mixture?! I don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostin1657615274 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Well the real question is whether there is an electrical problem or an exhaust leak. If there isn't either of those, you are just seeing normal variations from having two sensors in two different locations. I don't want to get into another big debate about this, but the stock front O2 sensor is not a narrowband, it is a wideband just like the LC1's Bosch sensor and has a similarly-shaped calibration curve. Are you using the early production 6 wire or the normal 7 wire LC1 unit? How did you run your grounds? Did you do the heater calibration and the free air calibration? On the search for a new DD... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Here is the regular cruise with no boost [ATTACH]78664[/ATTACH] Here is the WOT 3rd Gear Pull [ATTACH]78665[/ATTACH] It seems like it is working well on a WOT but that might just be my misconception. Does anyone also know why the Ignition Timing gets less right at the edge of Vacuum and positive PSI? Sorry, still a newb when it comes to tuning and I just want to get as much information at once as possible. Your cruise looks good to me, my LM1 reads a little off at cruise, just like yours does. But yours seems way off at idle tho..I think it is a small leak somewhere. It is normal for timing to dip during spool up..depending on the tune, after 3500 timing should build up to redline. That is totally normal. FWIW, you are not running a ton of timing..there may be room for more powa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 Well the real question is whether there is an electrical problem or an exhaust leak. If there isn't either of those, you are just seeing normal variations from having two sensors in two different locations. I don't want to get into another big debate about this, but the stock front O2 sensor is not a narrowband, it is a wideband just like the LC1's Bosch sensor and has a similarly-shaped calibration curve. Are you using the early production 6 wire or the normal 7 wire LC1 unit? How did you run your grounds? Did you do the heater calibration and the free air calibration? I am not too sure if it is the early production but this was purchased last Dec if that helps in determining if it is new or not. I believe it to be the Newer LC-1 Unit. The grounds was used with the Hoop looking end terminal x2, straight to the big bolt that holds the dashboard on the inside of the car. If I read the instructions correctly, they said to put the 2 lugs together on the same point so that's what I did. Yes, I did the heater calibration and the Free Air Calibration. However, I did take a look at the Innovate site and found out that the "First Time Use" Steps are different than the Regular Calibration. The manual that I had only specified Regular Calibration. Maybe this is what I need to do? http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf Weird... I will try to do the free air calibration today and check for any uppie leaks or anything that I can check from the top of the car. Thanks for your info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 Your cruise looks good to me, my LM1 reads a little off at cruise, just like yours does. But yours seems way off at idle tho..I think it is a small leak somewhere. It is normal for timing to dip during spool up..depending on the tune, after 3500 timing should build up to redline. That is totally normal. FWIW, you are not running a ton of timing..there may be room for more powa. Where would you think the leak is at? Maybe there is a leak in between the 1st O2 and the WBO2? Or are you talking about more down stream where the DP and the Mid-pipe connects? I can only think that there is a leak somewhere at the Uppie or where the DP connects to the turbo. It might make sense that the Bellmouth area might be prone to the leak since my mechanic did put the bung on the DP and probably did not replace the Gasket. But I don't hear any high pitch sound coming out of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostin1657615274 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 the "first time use" thing is talking about a heater calibration. that's when you disconnect the wideband, turn the key on for a few seconds, then plug it back in to do the heater calibration. if you had the digital XD-16 display it would be a little more intuitive because it eliminates the LED and actually displays text On the search for a new DD... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 OK then, I did all the things stated on the calibration... Hmm, well I'll try to reset it again and see what the problem is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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