Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

My Stage 2 Plan - critiques welcome


DeltaNu1142

Recommended Posts

I've had my LGT for, oh, all of about 3 weeks. Reading this forum has given me the bug... I've put in a Cobb STS and F&R bushings. Double-DIN kit & HU with svxDC's harnesses are inbound. Now it's time to start playing with go-fast(er) parts.

 

I owned a 2004 STi for a little while, bought new in 2003, but other than audio, I didn't do any mods & it was the only other turbo I've ever had, so I've been doing a lot of reading here to school up on tuning.

 

I'm the 2nd owner of this car with 26k miles, and it came to me with a Magnaflow CBE and apparently no other mods at all. I've purchased MonkeyHermit's MadDad Metal V2 DP and have been looking into what I need to pull together for an Infamous tune. I have a laptop, and I'm guessing the Tactrix Openport 2.0 is my best option for ECU read/reflash on my 2009... so here's what I'm looking to do--input more than welcome:

  • wait for DP to arrive & decide on ECU flash options (what else is there, aside from Openport?)
  • schedule DP installation around availability of Infamous tune

This car is my DD and I intend to keep it sort of modest & keep reliability high. I'm hoping a tune also helps with my fuel economy, in a "help me find out where the hell all of my fuel is going" kind of way. I'm getting 20.9 mpg with enough highway driving to make that suspicious. Also, I'm not planning to change internals or turbo (yet), so I have the following questions:

I appreciate what I've been able to learn from these forums already, and I'm looking forward to learning more about how to safely squeeze more juice out of this little 2.5L. Thanks!

Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Moderators

A WBO2 can always be beneficial for tuning, so if you can afford it go ahead and install so your tuner can have access to the best information available.

 

Aftermarket boost solenoid? If you get one definitely go with an EBCS, not manual. You don't need one for stage 2, but again if you plan to eventually go much past stage 2 and can afford it NOW rather than later you can see gains in your stage 2 tune by having one so why not install sooner rather than later. They'll be more or less negligible but maybe not.

 

I notice that you don't mention anything about upgrading your intercooler...? You'll need to reenforce the stocker or risk blown endtanks with higher boost levels or you should go aftermarket. Some would say aftermarket is the only way to go, your bank account may say otherwise.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A WBO2 can always be beneficial for tuning, so if you can afford it go ahead and install so your tuner can have access to the best information available.

Aftermarket boost solenoid? If you get one definitely go with an EBCS, not manual. You don't need one for stage 2, but again if you plan to eventually go much past stage 2 and can afford it NOW rather than later you can see gains in your stage 2 tune by having one so why not install sooner rather than later. They'll be more or less negligible but maybe not.

I notice that you don't mention anything about upgrading your intercooler...? You'll need to reenforce the stocker or risk blown endtanks with higher boost levels or you should go aftermarket. Some would say aftermarket is the only way to go, your bank account may say otherwise.

Thanks. I also didn't mention new exhaust gaskets, but those are on my list...

 

No, I did not think about the intercooler; thanks for the tip. I'll do some searching on reinforcing vs. aftermarket. I'm interested in maintaining high reliability because I don't want this car to just be a money pit... :p

Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely think about upgrade the intercooler. Stock one isn't that good. I'm in the same boat right now as you. I'm at stage 2. Im running a cobb v1 with a PDX tune. Boost is 18. Had this tune for 3 years. No problems at all. Car runs great. I'm goin Opensource soon, just have to get a wideband.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Does it ever end...? :spin:

 

Lol just have a slush fund available for a clutch/flywheel because the OEM 5mt clutch is know to not like increased abuse. There is however no reason to replace a working non slipping clutch just because you are at stage 2.

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeahhh, I know. I'm just whining because I only bought the car about 6 weeks ago & I've already dumped several thousands into engine, suspension, & audio... I'm looking forward to a "break" where I just get to drive it without a project ahead.
Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeahhh, I know. I'm just whining because I only bought the car about 6 weeks ago & I've already dumped several thousands into engine, suspension, & audio... I'm looking forward to a "break" where I just get to drive it without a project ahead.

 

Better sell the car while you are ahead! :lol::lol:

 

:hide:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it ever end...? :spin:

 

Why are you modding your car if reliability and mileage are the most important to you?

 

The answer is no. It put it in perspective, this is my (STILL GROWING) LGT mod list.

 

AMR CMX 550, PTP Turbo Blanket, KSTECH INTAKE, PERRIN FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER, AGENCY POWER HARD INLET, 8MM PHENOLIC SPACERS, GFB BOV, Prodrive EBCS, Infamous1 Road Tune, DW 850cc Injectors, DW65C FUEL PUMP and BRACKET, Fuel Hose Reroute, GTSPEC Headers with Thermotec wrap and spray, GTSPEC Up-Pipe with Thermotec wrap and spray, Stromung CBE, Torque Solutions Exhaust Hangers, ERZ Catted 3” Downpipe with Thermotec wrap and spray, COMP STAGE3 CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL KIT, MISHIMOTO RADIATOR, MISHIMOTO FANS, MISHIMOTO COOLANT RESEVOR, Whiteline front and rear sway bar bushings, KW2 COILOVERS (fresh rebuild), HOTCHKIS FRONT SWAYBAR, HOTCHKIS REAR SWAYBAR, AVO Rear Sway Bar Mount Reinforcements, KARTBOY ENDLINKS, CUSCO FRONT STRUT TOWER BAR, Technafit Lines, DBA 4000 Rotors, D31 Drag Gunmetal 18x8 +48, Hubcentric rings, Forged Lugs, KDW2 245/35/18, GMS Radiator Hoses , GroupNLeft Engine Mount, GroupNRight Engine Mount, GroupN Trans Mount, GroupN Pitch Stop, Whiteline Front Roll Center Kit, WHITELINE FRONT INNER CONTROL ARM BUSHING KIT, Whiteline Positive shift kit, Whiteline Steering rack bushings, Whiteline Rear Differential Bushing inserts, Whiteline Rear Differntial Mount Bushings, Kartboy Front shifter bushing, Kartboy Rear shifter bushing, GrimmSpeed Gaskets, KillerB Windage tray, KillerB Pick Up, KILLER B OIL PAN, Battery, smaller than OEM, SUBTLE ALTERNATOR COVER, SPT BATTERY TIE DOWN v2, SPT OIL CAP v2, SPT HEATSHIELD, BLUE WIRE LOOM, COBB RADIATOR SHROUD, FRONT LIP, MOMO shift Knob, Replacement OEM Steering Wheel, Cleared lamps with HID and Halos DRL disable, relay+ wiring and HALO wiring to Fogs Rewire Fogs as DRL, LED Interior Lighting Kit, New Fuel Pressure Regulator, New Belts,Coolant (Subaru OEM w/conditioner), Brake Fluid (ATE Superblue), Tansmission Fluid (Extra S), Front and Rear Diff Fluid (Extra S), Clutch fluid (ATE Superblue), New Spark Plugs, New PCV, Stoptech BBK, R-Rev Grill (already had actually), R-Rev Eyelids, R-Rev Type-S Spoiler, R-Rev K2-Style Window Spoiler, R-Rev Strakes, R-Rev Mudguards and I am sure I am forgetting a bunch of stuff.

 

Please don't do the math.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why are you modding your car if reliability and mileage are the most important to you?

Why do you assume reliability and mileage are the most important to me?

 

If I had wanted reliability and mileage, I would have leased an econobox.

Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mean behind my 2.5GT peers. Look, I've never been one to seek out the most economical vehicle. My sordid auto history includes a lot of V8s, some stroked & bored, a factory supercharged Ford, an STi when they first came to the States, several 3-series including (most recently) an E46 M3... and my Tundra. I chose a 2.5GT because I love the format, but I didn't want to spend >$40k on a new STi. AND because I like to drive something that I don't see 30 of during my commute to work... Subarus aren't exactly prevalent in Florida, and LGT's much less so.

 

When I say "behind," I'm comparing my MPG's in essentially stock configuration to stage 1 & 2 guys that are getting closer to 30 MPG. Comparatively low. It's clear I can get better performance and better economy, so... why wouldn't I want that?

Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20.9 mpg does seem rather low for highway driving, i get 20-22 city but it climbs to ~26 on extended highway trips. But i really have to stay focused on economy to hit that 26, keep the rpms <4k, use cruise control as much as possible, etc. If im taking hole shots out of the toll booth to beat the guy next to me or the highway has lots of hills then that's going to lower considerably.

 

If u think you're babying it as best you can and are still pulling 20mpg on highway trips then something may be wrong and u might want to have it looked at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the website tells you. tactrix.com, download the J drivers

Download Drivers + J2534

This is an Openport 2.0 driver and J2534 DLL-only install for users who only intend to use non-EcuFlash software with their Openport 2.0. This install also contains a few J2534 coding examples for developers in C. If you plan to use EcuFlash, do not download these files - go to the EcuFlash download page instead, as the driver and J2534 DLL installation are built into the EcuFlash install.

I'm going to use EcuFlash. I'm just trying to figure out how to trigger a log using the OpenPort 2.0 & a microSD card.

Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never gotten much better than 21mpg, even on the highway, but I drive my car like it should be driven as turbo car...:) With a WB02 sensor you can lean out the tune from being pig rich under WOT, that may help a little...

 

The stock intercooler is just as good as any stock intercooler type replacements if you reinforce it. Subaru wasn't dumb when they designed it, look where the turbo side endtanks of most replacements sit. I ended up replacing mine because it kept blowing apart no matter how I reinforced it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get 29/30mpg going 75-80 on the highway easily with cruise on. If I actually slow down to 65-70 and let it accelerate on downhills and slowdown a bit on uphills I am convinced I could get 31 any day. Stage 1, max boost 16 when everything nice and hot. In DD I am getting upto 15psi. If I where you I would try stage 1 first. Stock map is one big load of compromise and compensation for whatever gas including cali 91 you can encounter nationwide. Nice stage 1 on 93 will get you very reliable, pretty fast car. I am going stage 2 soon enough but I don't expect any issues with mpg or reliability after that. Anything past stage 2 is a financial black hole and there is no stop to it. It becomes an adiction and for a good reason. In my opinion you have to set you goals and stick to it no matter how intimidaded you feel at the local subaru meet :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fully agree with the post above and went Stage 1 for a "shake down" approach before moving on to Stage deuce. My mileage averages around 21 with mixed city/highway daily, but there isn't a day I don't find at least a few excuses to open her up through 2nd and 3rd gear pulls WOT enjoying the benefits of boost, (and a sharp suspension package as I upgraded suspension and did maintenance items first).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use