AZP Installs Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Use the brass craft cutter and line it up as close as you can to the silver part and you'll be all set Yeah we cut ours as high as we can get the pipe cutter in there. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I would get subaru OEM ones or the WL comC ones. The other generic ones well they are generic. Mike This!!! I am waiting on OEM mount to arrive today so I can start assembly on the fronts. The reason I am waiting is bc I first ordered Monroe mounts, got them in hand and they just didnt look "stout" enough so I sent them back and got two OEM mounts. Second this guide is VERY VERY VERY helpful for assembly my biggest questions were about the rears as the mount needs to be perpendicular to the bolt head. Great pictures and explanations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prelude Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Just got my konis, stupid question but when you measure on the konis at the bump do you go to the top of the bump, the bottom or try to center it. Either way its a different measurement for the cut on the stock struts? This is how I measured the cut. 32mm from the top of the ring/cap thingy. http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/12koni/DSC_0710.jpg Then I used a reciprocating saw. http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/12koni/DSC_0721.jpg Koni went in and the bumps seated well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple_B Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 I am on Koni and rallitek as well. What your reason for Whiteline top hats? Let me know if they make any difference for you. i track the car a bit and noticing that i need more camber up front. don't want coilovers nor camber plates. the addition of .75* of caster and .5* negative camber are perfect. haven't been to the track yet, soon. it was funny when i put one in and was able to compare stock to these. i couldn't believe how rubbery soft the stock hats were. the WL didn't really move when pushing or wiggling the strut assembly. it did kind of make the larger bearing click. it seems tight so hope it is. now the question is how do i adjust caster in the WL LCA rear bushing i put in. i left it in what was most neutral. with the bolt hole to the inside center. if i rotate the shaft i can see the CA move but how much can i do it? should i just max it out? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 You should be adjusting the caster on an alignment rack. I maxed mine out on the rack, even amount on both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Just installed my konis yesterday. Still feeling them out but i now feel a front end clunk. I also replaced the end links n lca bushings with the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 22, 2013 Just installed my konis yesterday. Still feeling them out but i now feel a front end clunk. I also replaced the end links n lca bushings with the install. Check your endlinks to make sure they are nice and tight, those are usually the source of clunking. After that check ball joints, and make sure you installed the conical washer in the front the correct way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Make sure you put the cotter pin in the ball joint.... Don't ask me how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Finally installed mine but with the H&R springs. Thanks to AZP for the help with a quick phone question. The front struts were so much taller than the worn out coilovers I replaced them with. I had to loosen the control arms to get the strut mounts to align with the knuckle. However, now it looks a little saggy in the rear to me, I'm wondering if there is extra height in front from using the Spec B tops with the washer thickness and should then get a saggy butt spacer for the rear or go to a different top hat? I think they're still settling more too, so that could also be a contributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 22, 2013 Finally installed mine but with the H&R springs. Thanks to AZP for the help with a quick phone question. The front struts were so much taller than the worn out coilovers I replaced them with. I had to loosen the control arms to get the strut mounts to align with the knuckle. However, now it looks a little saggy in the rear to me, I'm wondering if there is extra height in front from using the Spec B tops with the washer thickness and should then get a saggy butt spacer for the rear or go to a different top hat? I think they're still settling more too, so that could also be a contributor. When I put my koni/epic combo on it took about 150-200 miles to settle to the height they are now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Check your endlinks to make sure they are nice and tight, those are usually the source of clunking. After that check ball joints, and make sure you installed the conical washer in the front the correct way. Make sure the lower bolt holding the konis in is also still tight. Seen a few of these loosen up over time. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Make sure the lower bolt holding the konis in is also still tight. Seen a few of these loosen up over time. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" I did this over the weekend and was able to get a couple of turns on the bolt. I didnt have the clunk but was checking bolts after some miles of driving on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Would it be ok guys if I install my Konis/Htechs using the my old Tophats and then later on swapping those out? Didn't take those into consideration when buying Konis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 23, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 23, 2013 Would it be ok guys if I install my Konis/Htechs using the my old Tophats and then later on swapping those out? Didn't take those into consideration when buying Konis. No harm in it. If you get weird noises afterwards, just replace them. Adds quite a bit more work obviously, but other than that... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 23, 2013 No harm in it. If you get weird noises afterwards, just replace them. Adds quite a bit more work obviously, but other than that... He's planning on re-using the rest of the hardware he needs from his stocks anyways, so not much more work than he would have been doing anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 23, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 23, 2013 He's planning on re-using the rest of the hardware he needs from his stocks anyways, so not much more work than he would have been doing anyways. It's exactly twice as much work to do it twice "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 We've been having break ins around the area and I really want to get them installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 23, 2013 It's exactly twice as much work to do it twice Not if they don't clunk. I was referring to the hypothetical situation where they don't clunk and him not having to buy new tophats is no more work than him re-using the ones that are on there because he still has to disassemble his old struts to get hardware from there. Fronts are no problem anyways, rears are the PITA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 23, 2013 After just typing that, famaya buy new rear tophats. they're cheaper (I think?) and the rears are a giant pain to do so you don't want to have to do those twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Wait so are the bumps on the konis supposed to slide into the old housing or will it sit above it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 25, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 25, 2013 Wait so are the bumps on the konis supposed to slide into the old housing or will it sit above it? They should slide into the housing a good bit. Edit: when you tighten the bolt to hold the inserts in, it will get a bit tight until those bumps slide into the housing, then it's easy turning again until the shock completely bottoms out in the housing. I think you tighten them to ~50 ft/lbs at the end which is quite a bit--I've needed a vice / wedge setup to tighten mine each time. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Ive got mine torqued dwn to 50 lbs n they bottomed out but the bumps on the konis did not go thru the housing, did i cut too much off then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 You may have cut too much! The ridges slid into the housing at least a few milimeters for me. You might have to come up with some other method to shim the strut so it doesnt move around in the housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 So it sliding in makes it so it does not move? Because i had a clunk after installing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 25, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 25, 2013 Ive got mine torqued dwn to 50 lbs n they bottomed out but the bumps on the konis did not go thru the housing, did i cut too much off then? Yup "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now