anjohn17 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Hey guys/gals. About 6 months ago, I purchased a 2007 Subaru Legacy GT (45k). Today, driving to work, I noticed that white smoke (could be a bit blue, but it's around 50 below here so it looked really white) started pouring out of my exhaust. I also smelled a strong odor of burning oil so I pulled over and shut if off. I checked my oil dip stick and it looked completely dry. Then, I looked under the car and oil was dripping near the engine on the passenger side (still black, didn't look mixed with anything). In the short time I had the vehicle off, the oil had pooled to about the size of a half dollar. I had the oil changed about 2 weeks ago with full synthetic, but I didn't do it as it's been so cold here. I brought it to one of the quick change Valvoline shops. I figured this would be a great place to post since you guys are all the smart dudes. I owned Hondas and VW in the past, but they were always naturally aspirated. I was excited to join the Subaru community until I killed my car. What did I do to her? Any help is greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 28, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 28, 2014 Not to state the obvious, but it sounds like you have a pretty significant oil leak. In my mind, that's somewhat good news since it should be easy enough to find. Possibilities could be a pipe going to the turbo, valve cover gasket, head gasket...maybe others? You'll need to try and clean things up and then figure out where the oil is coming from. From the sound of it, probably best not to be driving too much. Good luck! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 If I just popped an oil line or split a gasket, I guess wouldn't be super worried. But I must admit, the huge cloud of smoke and strong burning oil smell are scaring me a bit. If you drain the oil from an engine and run it, will the remaining oil start to burn up and cause those symptoms? I am concerned about any internal damage; piston rings and whatnot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Is the oil filter tight ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Pass side up front is where oil filter is, but it has bellypan under it so may not directly drip. I'd definitely check that first, could be as simple as loose filter or sometimes the old filter gasket sticks to the car side so you basically double gasket which deforms them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 I'll go check the bellypan for the filter, if I can see it. The car is parked on the street in front of my office building so I'm at a bit of a disadvantage without tools. Hopefully I can try to see if that's where the oil is leaking from. If it is something as simple as the oil filter not being snugged down, and I lost all my oil; would it burn up the left over oil and cause the smoke/smell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 28, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 28, 2014 The smell would generally come from oil dripping onto exhaust pipes and burning up--if it's burning out through the back of your exhaust you wouldn't really smell it while driving, but you might if you are stopped and idling. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 28, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 28, 2014 And don't start it again until you can add oil. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Unfortunately, I know that the burning smell was coming from the exhaust, and the smoke was rather significant. Enough that other motors were looking at me like my car was on fire. I could smell burning oil vaguely while exiting the freeway but strongly at idle. There was no smoke from the engine bay that I saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 28, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 28, 2014 Turbo seals? Not sure that explains why you are getting dripping oil though--might be two separate issues. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 You need to find out exactly where the oil is dripping from. If the turbo seals are that bad, you may have oil on the turbo center section. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 As far as I could see looking around the engine bay, I couldn't see any oil leakage/spray. I am working for another 4 hours so I had the car towed up to the stealership. I'm going to have them take a look at it and call me before touching anything. They said they'd get to it tonight or tomorrow AM. I'll definitely keep you guys posted. Wish me luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wang Lung Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver03 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Had this very similar situation happen in our 03 wrx. I discovered that the last time I had changed the oil that I did not check to be sure the o ring gasket came off with the old filter. Double oil filter gaskets=bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 FML. Dealer said the turbo failed. $2200-$2500 to replace. Does this seem accurate? I hadn't noticed any warning signs; loss of power, loud whirring noises, smoke in exhaust (prior to the incident).. Should I be concerned with their analysis? The guy on the phone honestly seemed a little shady. He couldn't give me any specifics when I started asking questions. When I inquired on why the car started dumping oil when the turbo failed, he couldn't answer and put me on hold. He came back with "With these cars, you need to change your oil every 2000 miles. The screens probably clogged and ruined the turbo." I've read about these screens clogging on this forum, but does it really happen that quickly? My main questions: Is this something I can/should take on myself? Is repairing as easy as ordering a new turbo, draining my oil, removing the old turbo and bolting the new one on? Thanks again for your help, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 29, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 29, 2014 If you're decent with these cars, then yes replacing a turbo is pretty simple. You might also need a new turbo inlet as they tend to tear after use. $2200-2500 is typical dealership highway robbery. Depending on how the turbo failed, you'll need to make sure that no debris went into your engine--you can check the oil for metal flecks. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragman Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Big thing is whether or not the turbo impeller wheel's shaft broke. When that happens, metal can get sent downstream into the engine. Common issues after that are rod bearing knock. So, if that happened, cleaning out the engine is super important before bolting on the new turbo and going on your merry way. If the shaft didn't break, and only the seals are gone, then its more of a bolt up and go deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 That's a fair price if they do all the needed work to check the engine. You need to get a itemized list of all the steps they will perform. Make sure you get a written garranty in case they cheap out and just throw on a turbo. My VF52 was $1030. I did my own labor. That was over 40,000 miles ago. I also bolted the turbo on the up pipe. Its easier then using the studs. You can see pictures on my click here link. If you can DIY, you should get a 3" down pipe and a tune too. Get the OEM gaskets for the up/dp and the 2X thick Grimspeed DP to mid pipe gasket from m sprank and not use the oem donut. Some guys have gone with a BNR16g for $800 plus the oil line kit. After being for as long as I have...I still went with a vf52 and the stock oil feed with the banjo filter removed on my 05. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 29, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 29, 2014 That's a fair price if they do all the needed work to check the engine. You need to get a itemized list of all the steps they will perform. Make sure you get a written garranty in case they cheap out and just throw on a turbo. My VF52 was $1030. I did my own labor. That was over 40,000 miles ago. I also bolted the turbo on the up pipe. Its easier then using the studs. You can see pictures on my click here link. If you can DIY, you should get a 3" down pipe and a tune too. Get the OEM gaskets for the up/dp and the 2X thick Grimspeed DP to mid pipe gasket from m sprank and not use the oem donut. So $1100 for a stock replacement turbo, maybe $150 in other odds and ends and gaskets, and you think $1k+ in labor for the job is fair? Even if they drop the oil pan to check that's ridiculous. If seen a guy swap out a turbo in well under an hour--I'm sure it books at more than and hour but it can't be THAT bad... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 No, with oil cooler and flushing of the oil system. You have to remember they have big overhead. Again, I suggested to get a itemized list of what was being done. It obvious the service writter didn't have the answers we need. With a 2007, I'm not sure the OP knows a trusted mechanic that can do the job. It's also very cold where he lives. My turbo only touched the housing, I know I had no metal in oil system. I also have all the tools I need. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowwill Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Wow seal in my turbo went bad recently and subbie charged $1850 parts and labor. Also new oil lines for the turbo. Cost me $100 and the aftermarket warranty company paid the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 So, I ended up giving the dealership the go-ahead. I called and spoke with a trusted local repair shop. They're a bunch of really cool guys that only work on foreign vehicles, and I trust them. I've had them do work on my VW in the past. I spoke with their 'Subaru' guy, and he said their labor would be far more than the dealership. He said they worked on a 05 GT with the similar turbo failure, and said it was a nightmare. They actually advised I go with the dealership which surprised me. The dealer said they would drop the oil pan and make sure there was "no metal fragments or other foreign objects floating around in my engine." They also offer a 12-month, 12,000 mile warranty on parts and labor. Should get my car back by the end of next week. Total repairs not to exceed the $2500.. supposedly. I guess we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epicmango Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Sigh........its these random cases of turbo failure that really scare me.... You're on the VF46 turbo, everything was done....its unnerving looking around for my next car :\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 12 month, 12,000 mile=piece of mind. Good luck, keep us updated and don't be a stranger to the forum. Lot's of good info here. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Update: So they started pulling my car apart today, and removed the timing belt to get to the oil filter for the turbo. I was told that the three timing belt tensioner pulleys are all making noise which the shouldn't do. Supposedly this "happens sometimes" but really should be addressed as these are sealed bearing systems and should be soundless. I was quoted at $100/each for 2 of them and another $155 for the 3rd. Has anybody else experienced a triple pulley failure at the same time?? I told the guy at the dealership I wanted to see any parts that they are replacing when I pick the car up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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