6MT Master Swap Thread

what do you mean wont work ? ^^^ do you not understand electricity ?

Actually there was a TSB if I remember correctly to fix the NSS. It was a re flash to the ECU.

I had the problem of it flickering on and off but was protuned so I never messed with the reflash.

I did the more thin copper washer trick

^ is that a bug that would cause the cruise to kick off randomly?

I believe so. Like it was too sensitive or something. Not sure. I think there is something about it in one of the threads on cruise light or something

Won't work.

 

 

 

Wow, that's pretty ballsy. I'd never thought about trying that worrying I'd brick the ECU...

05-06 LGT ECU's were pretty much the same ( short of at least the NSS polarity and the 2005.5 fuel temp sensor thingy ). 07+ had CANBus so yeah I'd be extremely fearful on that causing issues. Again it was only the 2005 MY Leggies that had the NSS issue, 06+ cars have the same polarity NSS as the STI vehicles.

 

Actually there was a TSB if I remember correctly to fix the NSS. It was a re flash to the ECU.

I had the problem of it flickering on and off but was protuned so I never messed with the reflash.

I did the more thin copper washer trick

Yes there was a TSB, it was to use the *522 ECU rom ( which I am running ).

 

^ is that a bug that would cause the cruise to kick off randomly?

Yep, you could set NP but it would eventually kick the cruise off. Only way to reset was to power cycle the car but again it was a temporary fix.

 

I believe so. Like it was too sensitive or something. Not sure. I think there is something about it in one of the threads on cruise light or something

This kinda. NSS sensor had a plunger type actuator similar to a brake light switch. Spring was too light and would cause the actuator to go on/off instead of a steady state. *522 rom extended the sampling window and used a logic comparator to try and prevent the cutoff. Not all cars responded, my first 05 LGT did, but some like Scooby still had to re-shim the NSS. Basically a thinner washer put more load on the plunger, keeping it from cycling.

and what if it was just wired to be in gear all the time?

And the 05 ECUs also had the radiator fan "reflash" issue as well.

And the 05

ECUs also had the radiator fan "reflash" issue as well.

 

Luckily I had that one done before my protune

So did I.

is there an install thread for the dccd controller? And where did u install the brain box?

 

sometimes I hate being a "do it yourselfer"

 

 

 

All I'm waiting on is my drive shaft. It's done, shipped from TX last Friday. Should get it Thurs. or Fri. this week. Her so more pics. of the ” Spiider’s” Auto DCCD controller install, wiring, switches install and I add my own "E" brake kill switch. which will open up the center diff. whenever I use the "E" brake. Just in case I feel like drifting the rear around in the winter.

 

OEM DCCD control switch used for good looks.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072127.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072124.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072126a.jpg

 

 

 

I put the pics. in order of connection from Power tap to ECU. Autozone as a 10a mini piggy back fuse set up. Just plug it in to the fuse port for the 12v accessory out let. Run wire to the DCCD controller that seat so nicely on top of the Air bag control unit. I used 3M 2 sided tape & a long zip tie. JB weld G sensor in place. Run TPS wire to ECU under passanger side floor panel.Why'll I was there. I hooked up a switch to my test wire connector. So I don't have to dig them out every time I use my APv2.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071710_edited.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071708a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712.jpg

 

I found this roller mini switch at Radio Shack. It is prefect for what I needed to do. All it does is cut the ground circuit. When the "E" brake is used.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071533.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071532.jpg

 

 

 

Mike

is there an install thread for the dccd controller? And where did u install the brain box?

 

sometimes I hate being a "do it yourselfer"

 

 

I put the pics. in order of connection from Power tap to ECU. Autozone as a 10a mini piggy back fuse set up. Just plug it in to the fuse port for the 12v accessory out let. Run wire to the DCCD controller that seat so nicely on top of the Air bag control unit. I used 3M 2 sided tape & a long zip tie. JB weld G sensor in place. Run TPS wire to ECU under passanger side floor panel.Why'll I was there. I hooked up a switch to my test wire connector. So I don't have to dig them out every time I use my APv2.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071710_edited.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071708a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712.jpg

 

2nd row of pics. Pic. #2

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0909071708a.jpg

 

TPS hook up post, http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1991336&postcount=255

 

I replied to your PM too.

 

Mike

Edited February 1, 2014 by HAMMER DOWN

I mounted and wired mine the same as Hammer Down. Just take your time and double check everything.

DCCD Pro install in one post.

 

All I'm waiting on is my drive shaft. It's done, shipped from TX last Friday. Should get it Thurs. or Fri. this week. Her so more pics. of the ” Spiider’s” Auto DCCD controller install, wiring, switches install and I add my own "E" brake kill switch. which will open up the center diff. whenever I use the "E" brake. Just in case I feel like drifting the rear around in the winter.

 

OEM DCCD control switch used for good looks.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072127.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072124.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072126a.jpg

 

 

 

I put the pics. in order of connection from Power tap to ECU. Autozone as a 10a mini piggy back fuse set up. Just plug it in to the fuse port for the 12v accessory out let. Run wire to the DCCD controller that seat so nicely on top of the Air bag control unit. I used 3M 2 sided tape & a long zip tie. JB weld G sensor in place. Run TPS wire to ECU under passanger side floor panel.Why'll I was there. I hooked up a switch to my test wire connector. So I don't have to dig them out every time I use my APv2.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071710_edited.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071708a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712.jpg

 

I found this roller mini switch at Radio Shack. It is prefect for what I needed to do. All it does is cut the ground circuit. When the "E" brake is used.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071533.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071532.jpg

 

 

 

Mike

 

 

 

I ran the wires thru a hole I drilled in front of the mental shifter boot ring. See pics. & green arrows. I did it this way so I didn't have to install a quick disconnect to the DCCD wires. So they can be unhooked when you have to remove shifter assy. If you wanted to run the wire thru the shiftier inter boot.

 

Mike

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/9079b1e1-629a-4e80-8ddd-5e670a43f511_zpsf126d90a.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/be408ecb-6d66-4c2a-8baa-f42468317ae0_zpsb13a146a.jpg

 

Here you go, it is the yellow wire with a red strip. It's the 3rd from the left, oops or the 2nd from the top. I'm bad, here's pic.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0801082111.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0801082117.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0801082118.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0801082116.jpg

TPS pin location has changed for 2006MY & UP.

 

Blue = TPS: (Download appropriate Subaru ECM Schem

atic from website)

Cable throttle = “B135 pin B7”

Drive by wire <2006MY = “B136 pin B18”

Drive by wire 2006MY+ = “B134 pin B18”

 

Pin location link below.

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/downloads/TPS%20dbw.pdf

Edited January 19, 2015 by HAMMER DOWN
Update Info.

I want to replace the fluid in my 04 STI R180 differential. I just learned that Subaru has discontinued the 1L LSD fluid, and only sells a 4L can. I do not want to lug around a 3/4 full can of gear oil during my move in a few months.

 

Will Motul 90PA be a good alternative? I've read about it on NASIOC about it, and it seems like the next-best option, but wanted to see if anyone else here is running it.

I run Amsoil Server Gear 75w/90 gear oil.

 

But If it's time to change rear diff. gear oil, isn't it time to do the 6MT.

Edited February 12, 2014 by HAMMER DOWN
Typo

When I purchased the differential, the vent was missing, so I couldn't tell how clean everything was. I wanted to put a couple thousand miles on it and change the fluid to be sure it's clean.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm assuming the Amsoil is 75w-90?

oops!!!!! miss type, your right. 75w-90

That doesn't sound like it would work. In fact, I'd bet my car it wouldn't work on my car. But if I proved it, no one would want my car anyway.

 

There may be a parameter that can be changed... but upload a whole ROM? No.

Again DN it ONLY applies to 2005 MY cars, not your 2009. Subaru fixed it on 2006+ vehicles by using the same NSS type switch.

 

^ is that a bug that would cause the cruise to kick off randomly?

 

I believe so. Like it was too sensitive or something. Not sure. I think there is something about it in one of the threads on cruise light or something

Link here for all the info: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/root-cause-cruise-control-failure-30814.html?highlight=cruise+control+washer

 

AGAIN, only impacts 2005 MY vehicles. Subaru changed the 06+ Leggy switch to the same type as used on STI models, problem go bye-bye.

Just spent the day testing and changing my NSS.

 

Confirmed, 2005 NSS is NO ( normally open ). Also confirmed on an STI switch, it is NC ( normally closed ). ASSuME the 06+ Leggy is NC but didn't test that one.

 

My original switch would BARELY close/engage, had to be positioned just so else stayed Open. Got another from the boys at BoostInc then tested it before jacking the trans up in place ( BTW thanks KC and Mike for the Dogbone/Drop method info ). Quick test drive says good!

 

Another reason I think it's resolved is that before the CC kicked off the throttle plate would "surge" when engaged. No more surge.

Some good news from Russia for those, who want to get R180 on their B13 legacy but for some reason can't get Spec B axles.

 

We successfully installed R180 on 03' JDM legacy GT(B13 started from 2003 in japan), using pre-5*114 axles from 03' JDM GDB STI(30 splines on both ends of the inner shaft, AFAIK it's the same as US pre-5*114). We used outer CV joints from (you must get mentally ready) hyundai elantra. P/N MEYLE 37-14 498 0000. One car is running them with IHI VF42 for at least 50000 kms without faults, other just got them on.

 

Splines count:

LGT hub - 25

STI inner shaft - 30.

 

Swap is a direct bolt-on, CV joints went in as if they were manufactured for that exact reason.

Don't know the situation with parts in US, but here it's almost impossible to get your hands on used spec B axles, and for new ones you have to wait a month and pay ~$1200.

STI axles are easy to find wherever you want, and usual price is $300 for pair. Meyle CV's are $100 for pair and can be found in any shop.

 

Some good news from Russia for those, who want to get R180 on their B13 legacy but for some reason can't get Spec B axles.

We successfully installed R180 on 03' JDM legacy GT(B13 started from 2003 in japan), using pre-5*114 axles from 03' JDM GDB STI(30 splines on both ends of the inner shaft, AFAIK it's the same as US pre-5*114). We used outer CV joints from (you must get mentally ready) hyundai elantra. P/N MEYLE 37-14 498 0000. One car is running them with IHI VF42 for at least 50000 kms without faults, other just got them on.

Splines count:

LGT hub - 25

STI inner shaft - 30.

Swap is a direct bolt-on, CV joints went in as if they were manufactured for that exact reason.

Don't know the situation with parts in US, but here it's almost impossible to get your hands on used spec B axles, and for new ones you have to wait a month and pay ~$1200.

STI axles are easy to find wherever you want, and usual price is $300 for pair. Meyle CV's are $100 for pair and can be found in any shop.

Good info... interesting choice for a first post. I'm running a WRX R160, with no immediate plans to swap out rear diffs, but this is a, ahem, unique option.

Some good news from Russia for those, who want to get R180 on their B13 legacy but for some reason can't get Spec B axles.

 

We successfully installed R180 on 03' JDM legacy GT(B13 started from 2003 in japan), using pre-5*114 axles from 03' JDM GDB STI(30 splines on both ends of the inner shaft, AFAIK it's the same as US pre-5*114). We used outer CV joints from (you must get mentally ready) hyundai elantra. P/N MEYLE 37-14 498 0000. One car is running them with IHI VF42 for at least 50000 kms without faults, other just got them on.

 

Splines count:

LGT hub - 25

STI inner shaft - 30.

 

Swap is a direct bolt-on, CV joints went in as if they were manufactured for that exact reason.

Don't know the situation with parts in US, but here it's almost impossible to get your hands on used spec B axles, and for new ones you have to wait a month and pay ~$1200.

STI axles are easy to find wherever you want, and usual price is $300 for pair. Meyle CV's are $100 for pair and can be found in any shop.

 

 

 

Brilliant! I love seeing people get creative and source parts to solve a problem like this. Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge with the rest of us. +2

^ This