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How to: CNT FMIC Install


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This is my install of the new CNT FMIC. It required minimal trimming and it worked with the stock fog lights. The stock air box will notwork. Overall the fit is nice with minimal rubbing. I am using a Cobb short ram intake, but I had to purchase a straight silicone coupler instead of the curved piece that came with it. The infamous filtered turbo supply line kit also works with it. I elected to use stainless steel bolts for mounting the core instead of the supplied ones.

 

Here is a link to the kit that I purchased:

 

 

http://www.cntracing.com/CNT_Racing_05_09_Subaru_Legacy_GT_front_mount_inte_p/cnt-05-09fintercoolerlegacy.htm

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not bad. FYI autozone sells a flange gasket, real reusable rubber mr. gasket, its in one of the isles and is readily stocked on the shelf. mr. gasket 738g - small/big block chevy thermostate gasket....they all fit. i trimmed the inner rubber part to get it the exact diameter as the turbo outlet
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bmx045

 

not bad. FYI autozone sells a flange gasket, real reusable rubber mr. gasket, its in one of the isles and is readily stocked on the shelf. mr. gasket 738g - small/big block chevy thermostate gasket....they all fit. i trimmed the inner rubber part to get it the exact diameter as the turbo outlet

Thanks for the info.

 

I used the Fel Pro rubber/fiber sheet. I have used it before and it is relatively thick and seems impervious to just about anything. Not sure how it will hold up to the heat yet. I will repost if I find out that it doesn't hold up well.

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I haven't put my bumper cover back on yet. I hope to install it tomorrow and I will post pics then. I had to order a new driverside clip that I broke and the stealership ordered the wrong one twice. I guess you can't order parts anymore without a VIN number.

 

Yes the factory fogs fit. Infamous Turbo Oil Supply Line fits as well. The factory air box does not fit.

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Looks identical to the FMS FMIC.

A better spot for mounting the new coolant expansion tank is on the other side of the engine bay as I did here...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/vtbmw525/My%2005%20RBP%20LGT/402136_2865606053754_1667859446_2540217_21253603_n.jpg

 

There is already a unused hole for mounting without a bracket. I used a Wurth T to join the coolant line and capped off the other end.

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Ok, here are the pics with the bumper cover installed. Man that thing needs washed.

 

I used 3/4x1/8 aluminum to clamp gutter guard to the bumper cover for protecting the core. I drilled and tapped holes every 3" in the aluminum. Works pretty good. I would recommend this over gluing because it seems pretty sturdy. I used a little clear silicone under the aluminum to give it a little more distributed clamping force.

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2-Front.JPG.53e8efb539b9bfda0fd58e489efe933c.JPG

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Thanks smithsrsn for the great write up.

 

No problem.

 

Test drove it tonight. Works great. Unfortunately, my throw out bearing is beginning to $queal. I gue$$ this mean$ it'$ time to upgrade the clutch. $eems like I am constantly working on $omething.

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  • 4 weeks later...
yes. coincidentally the fms kit has the same issues with the core and the mount, redrilling the same holes

 

Yes. TurboXS got too anal with the holes. The rear (closest to firewall) hole on the driver side does not line up perfect. So, drilling out all four holes is the key. I actually admit it and put it in the directions for install on the TurboXS kit. Takes a hole 2 minutes to do. Obviously something moved or was mis-measured on the fixture just a hair. All the copies of the TurboXS kit have continued this and even made it worse. Lol.

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MSprank,

 

Can you elaborate a bit on the quality differences. This is my first FMIC and I am curious of the advantages of a high quality kit compared to this one.

 

My impressions with this kit are that the quality seems good enough to get the job done. I am impressed with the price for sure. This kit is priced as cheap as a used TMIC. I have not checked the pressure drop accross the core, but I suspect that it isn't bad due to the large size. Any radiator shop should be able to leak check the core if that is a concern. Or for that matter, you could leak check it yourself pretty easily with a few pvc pieces and the silicone couplers.

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Pressure drop on lower priced brands is large. Size of core has nothing to do with it. It is about design and quality.

 

There is no R&D in the low priced offerings. They are either a copy of a more expensive offering or worse.

 

So, cores are far from equivalent. Piping is far thicker on major brands. Couplers are 9 ply and good quality from major brands. T-clamps are a higher quality from major brands. Flanges, dont even get me started. Major brands have real flanges. Instructions??? Major brands actually come with instructions. There are more too. These are the things you quickly and easily see. Low priced FMIC's work. Not great. They work. Many are so poor that when combined with a stock turbo you lose power. Most dont realize because they have an aftermarket turbo. Little do they know, they are overworking the turbo in an attempt to hit boost targets. That with a more efficient core, they could do it more easliy and have far less (if any) noticeable throttle change. The "lag" most talk of is due to crap FMIC's and not having a properly set up BPV.

 

You get what you pay for. Pay less for a FMIC than a TMIC. You are getting far lower quality.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Update?

 

So far I have only driven the car a couple times and I am waiting for the first revision of the initial tune that Shamar sent me. I think the true test will come when Shamar gets my tune dialed in. I will post again after I get my next tune revision.

 

As far as quality goes, I have pressure tested the system to 20 psi and I have no leaks. The flange did have a tiny leak that I fixed by switching to the Mr. Gasket part #738G recommended by BMX045. The flange that bolts to the turbo is a somewhat soft malleable aluminum alloy. I think a less malleable flange would be much better for sealing to the turbo. The clamps and couplers seem to work fine. The piping does not seem to deform even when I over torque the clamps. Obviously I cannot comment on long term reliability yet.

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