DIY adjustable short throw shifter for under $5?

I installed an cobb STS last weekend and got to thinking, if you cut the OEM shifter in half on the lower arm ( between the ball socket that connects to the floor and the pivot joint for the linkage) then thread both ends and put a inch and a half rod nut to reconnect them and BAM, you kicked it up a notch.

I haven't tried this yet but with the cobb and OEM side by side it looks totally doable. then shorten the other end and you got a stubby STS for like $2 in materials. any one see a reason this won't work?

c this is all you should need.

Yeah,

It's a cheap mod, now what happens when u have a tranny problem. Is Subaru going to say because u did this your warranty is void?

Plus couldn't doing this make the knob potentially loose?

And if I am not mistaken the thow is not going to be effected, just the lenghth of the shifter rod. Am I right there?

It's a cheap mod and a good idea. Only problem is that buying the tools to make it happen or getting a shop to do it will cost almost as much as the STS itself.

If you have the tools already then this is definitely the cheapest way to go to get a STS!!!

Do it and make a walk through!

whats the STS run?

I saw it for $219.00 is that about the right price for this part?

If your worried about warranty you should have an auto.

It will shorten the throw, look at the after market ones side by side and you will see the mechanical difference is the lower arm length(longer on STS) then think about leverage and it will make sense.

Done right there will be no wobble or looseness. Last but not least, tools= die (less than $20) hacksaw($5) file,optional($5). You do the math.

Send or sell me an OEM and I'll do a walkthrough(with pics).

The leverage from the upper arm would not mask the fact that the lower arm is shorter on the stock shifter right? Wouldn't this mean that you made the shift shorter one way and technically the cobb or kartboy with the longer lower arm's are even shorter? Shift effort would be up too due to less torque per same force.

Either way, good idea and a lot cheaper than an STS from cobb or kartboy (I got mine used.....$212 is more than my rallitek springs!)

OK, the point of an STS is to increase the throw distance, making the lower arm section longer will increase the throw distance at the linkage(which is the purpose of this mod). if you need an example use pencil(as the shifter) and bend a paper clip around it(as the linkage) put the paper clip toward the bottom(folcrum=eraser of pencil) move it forward and back to simulate shifting. Then move the paper clip up a quarter way up the pencil and repeat shift simulating, you should notice the paper clip travels farther now and that's all there is to it, just some simple mechanics.

yes, shift effort would be slightly increased, no more than any aftermarket STS though.

Any body want to sell a stock one cheap? This is one better suited for pictures.

OK, the point of an STS is to increase the throw distance, making the lower arm section longer will increase the throw distance at the linkage(which is the purpose of this mod). if you need an example use pencil(as the shifter) and bend a paper clip around it(as the linkage) put the paper clip toward the bottom(folcrum=eraser of pencil) move it forward and back to simulate shifting. Then move the paper clip up a quarter way up the pencil and repeat shift simulating, you should notice the paper clip travels farther now and that's all there is to it, just some simple mechanics.

yes, shift effort would be slightly increased, no more than any aftermarket STS though.

Any body want to sell a stock one cheap? This is one better suited for pictures.

Oh I understand how it works, aint rocket science. But the aftermarket STS would still have shorter throws but costs 2000% more.....and nope they don't deliver a 2000% decrease throw

I have a cobb short throw, and im thinking about doing this and selling the cobb. I don't like having it adjustable, cuz im constantly thinking, could my shifter feel better if i adjusted it??

Some one needs to measure from the center of the bolt hole to the bottom of the shifter on like a kartboy, so we all have a guide line.

I had one of those welded ones. It broke, luckily 1/2 block from home, and I still had the stock part. I think there's too much lateral stress for just a weld to hold forever, and was thinking an internal dowel or threaded rod and re-weld, but this idea is way better, thanks! Now I can do it without having to take it to get welded. Someday I should own a welder...

Andy