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Info on OB to GT suspension geometry. (Removing spacer)


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Will replacing the rear trailing arm and rta bracket give me more travel and get me off of my bump stops?

 

On JDM/EDM versions, swapping out the OB upper suspension arm (cast steel unit) with legacy version will automatically give you more travel since the Legacy version is less "chunky"

 

So I assume the USDM is also similar.

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On JDM/EDM versions, swapping out the OB upper suspension arm (cast steel unit) with legacy version will automatically give you more travel since the Legacy version is less "chunky"

 

So I assume the USDM is also similar.

 

 

Yes that is correct and its the same for USDM. Look at the picture on page 5 and you can see that they are less chunky. Still I replaced the bump stop to get even more travel! Same as a LGT.

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Thanks for the quick replies. I did the Koni/ Epic swap and am pretty much sitting on my bump stops. Looks like this swap has made to the shortlist of things to do. Do you guys have any other recommendations for gaining travel in the rear suspension ? Thanks again.
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Thanks for the quick replies. I did the Koni/ Epic swap and am pretty much sitting on my bump stops. Looks like this swap has made to the shortlist of things to do. Do you guys have any other recommendations for gaining travel in the rear suspension ? Thanks again.

 

I also modified my Koni shock body to give me a 2 inch height adjustment at the rear suspension. to prevent saggy butt....

 

Might be helpful

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-adjustable-yellows-installed-2007-outback-3-0r-193233.html?t=193233

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well I have always wanted to do this and now you have put up the PERFECT THREAD.

 

Thanks for all your research and pictures on this.

 

I just ordered all these parts from a guy parting out cars in the car parting out section of this forum.

 

My car is lowered already on BC/BR coils but what I will do is raise them up about an inch and then take all the spacers out.

 

I didnt need the drivshaft, shifter etc as my car has a 6 speed swap and is already using a 2.5i driveshaft and a spec B shifter.

 

Thanks again, looking forward to doing this.....

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http://i.imgur.com/Y02kx.jpg

 

Figured I would make this so people can see exactly what is what.

 

1. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

2. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

3. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

4. 20501AE00A <=== Bumpstops

5. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

6. LCA bushing stud (Do not know part number)

7. LCA cover plate (Do not know part number)

8. 20540AE090 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket LFT Side. $20.89

9. 20250AE04A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Left: $77.00

10. 34170AG021 <== Steering Linkage U Joint. $140.00

11. 20250AE02A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Right: $77.00

12. 20540AE080 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket RT Side:$20.89

13.

14.

15. Rear Transmission horizontal crossmember (Dont know part number)

16. Front Subframe Bolts (Do not know part number)

17. Center Exhaust Heat Shield (Do not know part number)

18. Transmission Sub Frame (Do not know part number)

19. Drive Shaft (Do not know part number)

 

If someone wants to jump in with the names for the other parts and part numbers for what I don't know that would be great!!

 

Anyone ever get the rest of the part numbers for this list?

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1. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

2. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

3. Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. 901000304 ($3.75 each)

4. Bumpstops 20501AE00A ($41.07)

5. Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. 901000304 ($3.75 each)

6. LCA bushing stud 901370005 ($5.73)

7. LCA cover plate RH: 20216ag00a - ($16.79)

8. Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket LFT Side. 20540AE090 ($20.89)

9. Rear Upper Control Arm Left: 20250AE04A ($77.00)

10. Steering Linkage U Joint. 34170AG021 ($140.00)

11. Rear Upper Control Arm Right: 20250AE02A ($85.62)

12. Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket RT Side: 20540AE080 ($21.32)

13. LCA cover plate LH: 20216ag01a ($6.79)

14. LCA bushing stud 901370005 ($5.73)

15. Rear Transmission horizontal crossmember: 41011AE100

16. Front Subframe Bolts 901000242

17. Center Exhaust Heat Shield: 44132AG150

18. Transmission Subframe: 41011AE020

19. Drive Shaft (Do not know part number)

Edited by Sublimejoe
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Thx for that,.....I dont have time do go over the list again right now (i'm in the middle of a new self build home construction project planning,... and soon building) but all info on part number and prices can be found on those 2 sites.....

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/ ............part number

http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ ......prices

Edited by JDMg3
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  • 4 weeks later...

So, as far as I can see from the parts list and photos, there are no spacers that hold the rear subframe away from the underbody of the vehicle....correct?

 

Also, has anyone done this swap but used standard LGT struts? I am curious if the OB, once swapped to this setup, looses that stupid wandering rear-end feel....I want to get rid of that but I don't want to go the coil-over route. My hope is to go with straight LGT struts and springs...maybe koni inserts if anything.

 

-r

Edited by oclvframe
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So, as far as I can see from the parts list and photos, there are no spacers that hold the rear subframe away from the underbody of the vehicle....correct? Has anyone done this swap but used standard LGT struts? I am curious if the OB, once swapped to this setup, looses that stupid wandering rear end feel....I want to get rid of that but I don't want to go the coil-over route. My hope is to go with straight LGT struts and springs...maybe koni inserts if anything.

 

-r

 

If you do this full swap along with LGT struts / springs you will have an legacy with different body cladding (and in your case a 3.0!). From experience, I'll tell you that if you throw a rear sway bar on there you'll get what you're looking for. If you go with stock struts, just pick up KYBs so they are new and of a bit better quality--stick with stock springs on these, anything else will blow them out prematurely.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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If you do this full swap along with LGT struts / springs you will have an legacy with different body cladding (and in your case a 3.0!). From experience, I'll tell you that if you throw a rear sway bar on there you'll get what you're looking for. If you go with stock struts, just pick up KYBs so they are new and of a bit better quality--stick with stock springs on these, anything else will blow them out prematurely.

 

That is kinda what I figured....so I guess the Legacies don't have the wandering rear end feel at highway speeds right?

 

-r

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That is kinda what I figured....so I guess the Legacies don't have the wandering rear end feel at highway speeds right?

 

-r

It is less noticable due to lower height/CoG.

 

However Leggy wagons have numerous strut alternatives/options where the OB models do not.

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I read through this whole thread and the only question I had and it may be a dumb one is this.......

 

I was wondering since the outback is lifted a bit with the spacers etc. and since the transmission mounts have spacers in them....

 

Why wouldnt there be any difference in the motor mounts??????

 

Its seems from opposed forces they are the same on both LGT and OBXT

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Trans mount is the same. It's the crossmember that has spacers.

 

I have an LGT GRP-N trans mount in my car.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Re-read what I asked. Not tranny mount, the cross pieces of tranny mount are different. I also have the group N mount but for my sti 6 speed

 

I was interested in the motor mounts....

 

I checked and they are the same number weird. I just figured they would be different since the tranny mount brackets were differs t

Edited by Scooby2.5
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If the front crossmember has spacers, and the trans crossmember has spacers, and the trans mount is the same, then why should the motor mounts be different?
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Actualy the mounts are all the same for GT or OBXT. The front subframe spacers lower the engine and the 2 tranny cross bracket of the tranny sub frame are shapped defferently to lower the tranny so no spacers there. Look at the pictures on page 5 and I tried to show it best I could.

 

For previous question,......yes the whole rear subframe assembly does have spacers. They are shows on page 2.

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http://i.imgur.com/Y02kx.jpg

 

Figured I would make this so people can see exactly what is what.

 

1. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

2. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

3. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

4. 20501AE00A <=== Bumpstops

5. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

6. LCA bushing stud (Do not know part number)

7. LCA cover plate (Do not know part number)

8. 20540AE090 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket LFT Side. $20.89

9. 20250AE04A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Left: $77.00

10. 34170AG021 <== Steering Linkage U Joint. $140.00

11. 20250AE02A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Right: $77.00

12. 20540AE080 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket RT Side:$20.89

13.

14.

15. Rear Transmission horizontal crossmember (Dont know part number)

16. Front Subframe Bolts (Do not know part number)

17. Center Exhaust Heat Shield (Do not know part number)

18. Transmission Sub Frame (Do not know part number)

19. Drive Shaft (Do not know part number)

 

 

Well I have everything I need to do this, just need to find 15 and 18

 

Nobody seems to have them.

 

Anybody know where to maybe get these?

 

I keep finding auto cars but no 5 speed cars to get these off of

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If the front crossmember has spacers, and the trans crossmember has spacers, and the trans mount is the same, then why should the motor mounts be different?

 

Yea this makes sense, I wasnt thinking about the front cross member spacers, dont mind me Im an idiot :lol:

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