Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Oil leaking out of dispstick


Recommended Posts

I have oil leaking out of the dipstick, and on occasion you can smell burning oil. Doesn't usually occur during my 5 mile daily commute. Its only an issue when I'm driving futher and it seems worse if I'm in boost for any decent amount of time. Car drives fine, doesnt seem to be leaking from anywhere else. Oil cosumption is mininal, maybe .25 quart per oil change at 4K miles.

I'm pretty sure I didn't overfill my engine the last time I changed the oil. Currently running M1 0w-40.

 

 

Did some searching and one idea maybe the PCV valve. But I have no idea where it is on this engine. Have 88K miles, may still be on the original PCV valve. Don't know if the previous owner ever changed it.

 

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/1081/img1885engineoildipstic.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Just took this pic a few minutes ago, but you can still see some oil at the top and on the o ring. Car was last driven ~3 hours ago.

Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing the PCV is plugged. It's located on the top of the block in fornt of the turbo and tmic.

 

There is a DIY here somewhere.

 

I personally would not use Mobil 0w-40

 

I'd go with a 5w-40.

 

These engines were not designed for a 0w-oil.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally would not use Mobil 0w-40

 

I'd go with a 5w-40.

 

I did a UOA, M1 0W-40 did just fine. Compared to Rotella T6 5W-40, which is what I use for the rest of the year, it runs smoother in cold weather.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/uoa-m1-0w-40-194590.html

Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a UOA, M1 0W-40 did just fine. Compared to Rotella T6 5W-40, which is what I use for the rest of the year, it runs smoother in cold weather.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/uoa-m1-0w-40-194590.html

 

The bearing clearances and piston to wall, is what I'm thinking about.

 

I'm no expert but, just saying...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Having this problem again, even after putting on a new dipstick o-ring. Now it only happens when I'm idling at a traffic light or stop sign for more than a few seconds. Sometimes I even have a little bit of smoke coming out of the hood scoop.:eek: I'm using Rotella T6 5W-40 and a Toyko Roki Mazda RX8 oil filter. Car runs fine otherwise, oil consumption is still minimal.

 

Back in the spring I had this problem checked out: compression & leakdown test was fine, as was the PCV valve. Had a new turbo inlet hose installed. (Don't buy a Perrin, it doesn't fit)

 

Anyone have any ideas?

 

Think I might try Penzoil Platinum or Ultra 5W-30 for my next oil change.

Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Do a compression test. You may have a cracked ring on a piston. It happens now and then due to material failure.

 

Had a compression test done back in the spring. IIRC all 4 cylinders were good at 125psi. Also said the PCV valve was good.

 

What is the hose that sits just to the right (looking at the engine from the front of the car) of the turbo inlet? Now I'm leaking oil from there too. So now I have smoke from the hood scoop and front passenger side of the car. :spin:

Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just because the compression was good then doesn't mean that it's good now.

 

A simple test would be to remove the oil filler cap with the engine idling and check how bad it's breathing. There will always be some pulsing which has to be taken into account.

 

Even if the PCV valve works the hoses has to be good too. A hose filled with tar is not working very well. There are as far as I know two (or actually three) hoses, one to the PCV valve and one (two) that goes from the cylinder heads to the air box. (may vary on model year etc.)

 

Bad breath from the oil filler cap can also be a defective valve stem/guide or stuck piston rings. Bad valve guides don't show up on a compression test.

 

But a good start would be to check and replace all breather hoses including the PCV.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4487789&postcount=359

 

Pages: EC(H4DOTC)-17, IN(H4DOTC)-3, EC(H4DOTC)-6.

453747.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just because the compression was good then doesn't mean that it's good now.

 

A simple test would be to remove the oil filler cap with the engine idling and check how bad it's breathing. There will always be some pulsing which has to be taken into account.

 

 

Most of the info I've read on here says you'd be burning a lot of oil when you're having compression issues. I'm still only burning .25-.5 quarts every ~4K miles. That's normal, not enough to be worried about compression.

 

I did have the oil fill cap gasket replaced, but I haven't tried that. What exactly should I be looking or listening for?

Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the info I've read on here says you'd be burning a lot of oil when you're having compression issues. I'm still only burning .25-.5 quarts every ~4K miles. That's normal, not enough to be worried about compression.

 

I did have the oil fill cap gasket replaced, but I haven't tried that. What exactly should I be looking or listening for?

 

The point is that if one or two of the piston rings are bad on a cylinder while the oil ring still is working then there will be more blow-by on that cylinder without increased oil pressure.

 

What you should be experiencing is uneven pulsing from the filler hole. Some pulsing is normal. Best is to compare with another similar engine. Cover the hole with your hand and see how much it tries to push can also give an idea. Just be careful so you don't burn yourself - best to do this on a half-warm engine.

453747.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use