Ball joint boot replacement

Anyone ever had to just replace the lower ball joint boot? I had a bad boot but a good ball joint. I cant find anyone who sells just the boot. I did find energy suspension has them, But i have to take it apart to measure it.

 

http://www.energysuspension.com/products/Tie-Rod-Ball-Joint-Boots.html

If the boot was torn the ball joint is likely already contaminated with dirt, just get a new ball joint. $25 isn't much to pay for piece of mind.

Same problem here (see pic), but I'm a bit reluctant to go after the whole ball joint after reading about all the headaches caused by attempting to replace it (underdog's experience for one).

 

I heard some where a way to delay the inevitable is to clean the boot and seal it with RTV Cement. Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x140/yaddowam/PC040457a.jpg

with some tools, i think its easy to get the ball joint out of the control arm. getting the ball joint out of the knuckle is another story. would be nice to know from the pro's how to get it out without damage to the knuckle.

 

as for the boot, i busted the one balljoint boot on my brother's RS. just put some crazy glue on there and its still holding up fine, no grease coming out. it does not look no where as bad as yours though. yours is all cracked on the one side. i suggest you just change the whole thing, and make sure you use a lot anti seize in the knuckle when you put the new one in.

Any cleaning solvents will contaminate the grease so unless you can guarantee completely flushing away all of the cleaning solution. I would suggest going for the full replacement.

 

By the time you clean it up and get it sealed properly, you will have already had the replacement unit in (in theory anyway...). lol

If you leave the ball joint attatched to the control arm and insert a wedge into the crack, a heavy hammer can open it enough that the joint will almost fall out. I have done this several times on various Subarus. Just make sure to remove the retaining bolt completely and use lotsa lube.

Thanks for the feedback!!!

 

4wdrift, were you lucky enough to use a lift?

The retaining bolt you are talking about that's the one in the knuckle, right?

thats what i did! i was scared to wedge something in there. i forgot who, but someone on here did the same thing and it actually cracked the knuckle at that spot. i'm just wondering is there is some tool that can pull the old balljoint out of the knuckle without stressing the knuckle so much. its just very awkward position, so i don' think there is such a tool.

i forgot who, but someone on here did the same thing and it actually cracked the knuckle at that spot.

 

Praedet

Post 14

 

Hence my trepidation

We always replace the ball joints when we do the LCA bushings. 50% or more of the time they need them or they will need them so while we are in there we slap in new ones for our customers.

 

-mike

ok well how do you guys do it then? special tool to pull it out? or just wedge that crack open?

And the answer is.....drum roll please.....

Where can I buy the ball joints? How much do they usually cost?

The cast steel is pretty strong in the ball loint. I take some comfort in the fact that the exponential stressors involved when hitting road imperfections and carrying the weight of the car far outweight what I can generate with a mallet.

 

Where you run into problems is when some wrench monkey tries to flay it like a salmon. It just wasn't designed to open like a book. It is supposed to flex (to some degree) to allow for this vary thing...removal/replacement of this wear item.

We always replace the ball joints when we do the LCA bushings. 50% or more of the time they need them or they will need them so while we are in there we slap in new ones for our customers.

 

-mike

 

Any suggestions on LCA bushings. Looking for some improvement over stock (longevity, durability, feel, etc..). Don't necessarily need adjustable i.e. the AVO. Anything you stock and would like to quote, pm me?

We like the AVO regular or the AVO offset. Both have served my car well despite the harshness I put it through.

 

On the ball joint removal, we use a tool I believe or an air chisel, I forget which they use in the shop at the moment.

 

-mike

Next time I need to replace that damn ball joint I will be prepared for it. I bought a 4lb sledge and a big chisel for the job. Also now that I have my own garage it's not as much of a pain to have the car up in the air for a couple days (or weeks as it has been since the motor popped).

 

I would definitely recommend soaking it with PBlaster for several days leading up to the job though.

This stuff works very well on rusted bolts and stubborn 02 sensors. Spray all around the ball joint,give the split in the knuckle a good long shot.

This stuff works very well on rusted bolts and stubborn 02 sensors. Spray all around the ball joint,give the split in the knuckle a good long shot.

 

If it works like it says it does, it may shrink the knuckle and make it harder to get out...

....or make it brittle so the knuckle cracks? yikes!

It's not liquid nitrogen in a can.

 

Spray it on let it do it's work,that also means give it some time to work in.

Lol

You can also use something like this:

 

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/images/BMW_312240_BALL_JOINT_TOOL.jpg

 

They've had them at Harbor Freight, but I cant seem to locate it on their website at the moment. Ive used this tool in many cars with luck. You crank the bolt and it increases pressure evenly, then POP!

 

Balljoints themselves are pretty cheap. Generic ones are like $30 or less, with higher quality ones around $45.

Nice!!

 

If I can find it somewhere I'll post up a link.