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Specifics about HID's...


Adoniram

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Ok, so I've done a LOT of reading and searching, and I've learned a lot about HID conversions for the LGT, but I still have a few unanswered questions:

 

1. I notice a lot of people talking about converting to D2S bulbs (and consequently needing the adapter). Why do this? What's the benefit vs H7?

 

2. If you convert to D2S, do you need a ballast that works with H7 or D2S? (i.e. at what point do you do the conversion?)

 

3. I'm still confused to whether DRL simply work or don't work when you convert to HID... personally, I'd rather not have DRL...

 

Thanks for any info you can share :)

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<---- color of my hids on my avatar it looks pretty good..as for the fuse I didn't know about that..I just disable my drls in the step by step thread pretty simple like 2 mins once u get it down...

 

 

6 years on this board and I never noticed the Deer Killer thread. Thanks!

 

 

Title: 50% air Car: 05 GT w/cow and hole in roof Posts: 4,155 iTrader: (2)

 

(edit - this is for 2005 and 2006 models only)

 

This walkthrough shows you exactly where everything is, and also how to remove fasteners and parts without breaking anything.

 

Green arrows, DRL module

Red arrows, panel attachments

 

1. Lower the panel above the pedals

  1. There are three plastic attachments for the lower panel. For the two in each side, turn counterclockwise 90 degrees, and the screw head part will pop out, now you can grab it by hand and pull it out completey.
  2. The middle attachment you must use firm pressure on to pull it out.

2. You will see the DRL module on the firewall with a white and black connector. If you can read the green sticker on the top it will say "DRL" on it.

3. Pull the white connector out only, secure it so it does not rattle, perhaps with a zip-tie as shown

4. Put the panel back.

  1. Just push the middle attachment back in
  2. With the "screw head" part of the black attachments extended, push it into the two holes on the sides. Then push the screw head in to lock it into place.

Title: 50% air Car: 05 GT w/cow and hole in roof Posts: 4,155 iTrader: (2)

 

(edit - this is for 2005 and 2006 models only)

 

This walkthrough shows you exactly where everything is, and also how to remove fasteners and parts without breaking anything.

 

Green arrows, DRL module

Red arrows, panel attachments

 

1. Lower the panel above the pedals

  1. There are three plastic attachments for the lower panel. For the two in each side, turn counterclockwise 90 degrees, and the screw head part will pop out, now you can grab it by hand and pull it out completey.
  2. The middle attachment you must use firm pressure on to pull it out.

2. You will see the DRL module on the firewall with a white and black connector. If you can read the green sticker on the top it will say "DRL" on it.

3. Pull the white connector out only, secure it so it does not rattle, perhaps with a zip-tie as shown

4. Put the panel back.

  1. Just push the middle attachment back in
  2. With the "screw head" part of the black attachments extended, push it into the two holes on the sides. Then push the screw head in to lock it into place.

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Most conversions is to replace the hologen projector with an HID projector.

Hid projectors will focus the light so it usuable and not scattered like reflector type lights.

My friend who has the same brand as mine but 50W, looks like he has his high beams on all the time.

you dont really need to convert with the 35W H7 kit. if you want 50W a conversion will be good.

 

www.ddmtuning.com or ask m spank he can do the work for you.

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The projector re-fit is a proper (yet expensive) way to properly add in HIDs. I get that.

 

However due to the nice factory projector lens in the LGT already, it's much better adding in a plug and play unit to them vs some old Ford F-150 with a standard halogen lens set up.

 

I hate glare from aftermarket HIDs when they are put in old buckets, but our cars will cut off the HID light scatter better than most.

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Our lenses are really good for 35W applications. I have a stock cut off and i didnt even adjust my lights after install. They were pointed where they needed to be. I marked my garage with chalk.

its the 55W light that piss off other drivers on the road.

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ddmtuning.com get the Raptor V2 kit H7. Only get the 55 Watt kit and only go as high as the 6000K heat range. Any higher you lose light and have more blue color than light.

 

Currently I have used 6 of the DDM kits. I currently use the H7 55W 6K for my low beams and have done siginificant mods to my fogs to be able to use H3 35W 6K bulbs for those. Yes, my lights are very bright when I have lows and fogs lit up at the same time. I also bought a back-up kit of H7 55W 8000K for my leg if I ended up with a bad bulb or bad ballast or had any troubles to run if I had to warranty return anything.

 

Loved the set-up so much I bought a kit to run in a 99 Mazda protege and a 93 suburban (both with traditional headlights). Worked out great.

 

After 1 year one of my fogs went out. I removed it and found i had cracked the bulb after running over a barrier at the race track. Contacted DDM for warranty return, they wanted both bulbs returned because they always match a set. After removing both fog bulbs for return I noticed one of my H7 low beam bulbs was more yellow than typical. DDMtuning asked for a photo of the color change to be emailed and they'd happily warranty those also.

 

I sent a priority mail package on a Friday ($5 bucks) to warranty returns dept, they called me Monday to say they don't warranty cracked bulbs and that it would cost $15 for a replacement set of H3's. H7 were a color mismatch and would warranty both free of charge. They asked for $6 in shipping for the non-warrantied bulbs and sent all of it in one package: an H3 bulb kit, an H7 bulb kit and the used H3 that wasn't broken to keep as a spare in case another H3 prob shows up down the road. $21 bucks for the package and it all was turned around and in my hands in less than 5 business days, start to finish.

 

All in all a fantastic experience over the past year with ddmtuning.com

 

** 55Watt Kit is rated as more bullet-proof than their 35 Watt kit** I would have used 55Watt for the fog conversion but they said it would melt the fog light housing. Since then it has been proven that the LegacyGt fogs are ok to tolerate the 55 W kit but I haven't used it.

 

That's my 2 cents on HID's in my 06 leg gt.

 

yes, to run HID bulbs in your 05 you'll need to disable the DRL's. In 3 years i went through 6 H7 stock bulbs at a greater cost than the ddmtuning.com HID kit because of those stupid DRL's!

 

I think the HID set-up has been awesome! Let me know if I can help further. (no, I did not purchase a battery harness and i'm running 4 HID's all the time, day or night. I never shut them off)

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Here, check out this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/yet-another-hid-kit-review-apexcone-raptor-v2-129072.html

 

This thread and review of the HID kit is why I bought what i bought. I have loved it and am super happy I made the switch. And it was cheaper than replacement stock bulbs.

 

good luck!

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Don't forget that DDM (any any other non OEM brand) will not put out the specified 55/35 watts. This has been tested before. People have put in their 35 watt and it looked really dim, that's because their 35's run around high 20's low 30's for wattage. The 55's run high 40's, IIRC.
"This is an adventure."
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I don't find my low beam (55W) or my fogs (35W) to be dim whatsoever. Just stared them down after re-install Friday afternoon in daylight conditions and always amazed at how much light they put out.

 

And no, I don't use a relay harness for my fogs (on my 06 it required hacking off the back of the housing caps and hacking into the stock wiring harness to get power though). I find this to be a largely irreversible mod without some soldering and don't recommend the foglight conversion to HID's for the faint of heart. But, I love my dual HID setup, running day or night.

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I may just end up purchasing some silverstar's for the fogs then (if I find the current bulbs to be too yellow to match the 5000k HID's)

Hacking into wires, soldering, all run of the mill for me :) The thing I want to do different with this vehicle though is take my sweet time and everything right the first time. I've experimented with my previous 5 Honda's enough....

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Ok, so I've done a LOT of reading and searching, and I've learned a lot about HID conversions for the LGT, but I still have a few unanswered questions:

 

1. I notice a lot of people talking about converting to D2S bulbs (and consequently needing the adapter). Why do this? What's the benefit vs H7?

 

2. If you convert to D2S, do you need a ballast that works with H7 or D2S? (i.e. at what point do you do the conversion?)

 

3. I'm still confused to whether DRL simply work or don't work when you convert to HID... personally, I'd rather not have DRL...

 

Thanks for any info you can share :)

 

1. Using a D2S adaptor allows you to use OEM quality D2S bulbs, then corresponding OEM ballasts. OEM components are of higher quality than aftermarket kit components. But they cost more too.

 

2. You can use either, as long as you have the proper wire plug adaptors. But without any adaptors, you would need OEM D2S ballasts to power D2S bulbs.

 

3. You need to disable DRL.

 

Most conversions is to replace the hologen projector with an HID projector.

Hid projectors will focus the light so it usuable and not scattered like reflector type lights.

My friend who has the same brand as mine but 50W, looks like he has his high beams on all the time.

you dont really need to convert with the 35W H7 kit. if you want 50W a conversion will be good.

 

www.ddmtuning.com or ask m spank he can do the work for you.

 

We don't have reflector-based headlamps, so it's not a big deal. While our projectors are designed for halogens, they work well enough on HID kits that it's a substantial upgrade over H7 halogens.

 

Ahhh, yes, I would never get a high output HID kit.

 

I often see them installed on oncoming cars and I fantasize about swerving in to them and plowing them head on.:mad::lol:

 

I'm curious as to how you would know what wattage HIDs are installed on other cars, simply by looking. If your cutoff is good, you could have 2000W HIDs and there shouldn't be any light above the cutoff and therefore zero glare.

 

Don't forget that DDM (any any other non OEM brand) will not put out the specified 55/35 watts. This has been tested before. People have put in their 35 watt and it looked really dim, that's because their 35's run around high 20's low 30's for wattage. The 55's run high 40's, IIRC.

 

Totally. Aftermarket is inferior to OEM, no doubt, but at DDM's prices, it's a good value anyway.

 

IMO, I'd either go DDM or full projector retro. I wouldn't bother with a halfassed D2S bulb+ballast swap.

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Well at $40 for a full 55W HID kit, I think I'm going to have to just go with that for now. Besides, I could always swap projectors in the future (for another $400 or whatever)

 

I think the ddm kit is the smart choice for now.

 

Disabling DRL looks like a cinch! (remove panel, unplug white connector, done) Glad I bought a 2005 :D

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What is the bulb size for the foglight on 05 Legacy. Sylvania states that it's h3, but others have stated that it's 9006...which one is it?

 

My 06 takes H3 bulbs, but be advised, that it is a major re-decoration of the dustcap to the back of the foglight housing as the wiring is actually part of the dustcap.

 

**I had to permanently dremel apart the fog dustcap and cut into the wiring harness to get the HID's to work for the fogs. I don't recommend it for the faint of heart. I don't consider this mod reversible in my car.**

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