Filtered Turbo Oil Supply Line Kit (w/ Instructions)

Frist, rhino6303 was not posting pix of a filter supplied by me. The filter was not supplied with a kit. He supplied his own filter which happens to be made by the same company that makes the filters for me. So, it might, or might not be the "same" and that is why he has contacted the manufacturer and not me.

Still not sure why his issues ended up in my thread making it seem as though there was a problem with a part I supplied.

Second, the kits are on back order. I made change to the custom double banjo bolt, then I found a new machinist to make them. This caused a 3 month delay in replenishing inventory. I ran out and estimate it will take until the third week of May to be shipping again. Until then, the kits have been removed from the website.

BumP

kits are available again finally!

I just ordered my V2 kit, wish I knew a promo code...

No promo codes for the oil line kits. But yes they are back in stock. I have the parts to make 200 more kits in hand now.

I suppose I should update the nomenclature and call this the V2.0b kit.

Note: The double banjo bolt has bow been modified for even more flow, which means you must adhere to the torque specs more closely as over torque can snap the bolt. It is rated to 14ftlbs. I tested it to 20ftlbs and that made the upper portion stretch.

I just received the kit today in all of its completion. I am going to try to get the kit as well as my new turbocharger and downpipe installed today.

I will take some pix along the way of the $300 full-kit install process. The instructions and the pix on this thread only show the $250 "half-kit".

oh and here is a link to correctly set a click-style 3/8" torque wrench:

I was warned and have read several times in this thread NOT to EXCEED 14-15 ftlbs of torque on the banjo bolts.

"You'd be suprised how many times I have actually seen someone set their torque wrench to the next, next setting just because they were ignorant as to it's operation!"

Also, and probably the most important note!! IF you retrieve your torque wrench and it is set on ANY value above the minimum/stop value, you WILL have an incorrectly torqued fastener if that wrench is used.

I have only done this twice in my career and once it was with a 1/2" wrench previously set to 120 ft-lbs, while the other was 38 ft-lbs on a 3/8" wrench

Regardless, I always recommend to zero the wrench by leaving it at its minimum/stop setting 24 hrs before actually utilizing the tool... **(this is my suggestion and opinion; because, if it were left in a tool box for "say a year" the internal spring would probably be completely out of specs and would need replaced)**

Adam

I'm missing a 12mm banjo bolt(the passenger rear next to EGR valve) can I reuse my factory banjo bolt with the new crush washers in your kit?(I got the two crush washers, I'm just missing the banjo bolt.....)

Mike I have a question for you, the TomiokaRacing 18G Billet turbocharger has a banjo bolt and 2 copper crush washers preinstalled with it; however the kit I received today also has a new turbo banjo bolt and what "looks" like larger diameter steel crush washers.....Will either of these work with the angled fitting, and if so which one do you rec. to actually use?

Adam

Adam,

The kit does not include a 14mm single banjo bolt (just the required washers). Re-use the OEM. You can remove the filter from the bolt if you feel so inclined.

Tomioka supplied a restrictor because the turbo requires it. Use their banjo bolt. It should be a standard 10mmx1.5. The supplied fitting should work properly with their bolt. The crush washers should also be standard 10mm. Copper washers tend to have a thinner outer "ring" than the aluminum washers.

This year, all of the sudden the "complete" kits are outselling the standard kits. Previously the standard kits outsold the "complete" kits 10 to 1. The printed instructions supplied link to this thread, but maybe I need to write specific instructions for the AVCS line now.

I'd love a write up specifically for that kit. I just finally got around to installing mine a week later.

I did see this:

Pix of the pre-air pump ACVS line routing. Sorry about rear of motor, crappy cell phone pix.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=107786&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1321135610 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=107787&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1321135610 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=107788&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1321135610

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=107789&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1321135610 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=107790&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1321135610

But I'm still confused.

2005 Outback XT

Where does the dual banjo go, directly into the AVCS since we are now skipping the heads?

Also I was wondering what I should swap out bolt-wise since I am still on the stock turbo for a little while? I don't want to blow any seals or anything. I have this kit for peace of mind and for the future when I upgrade the turbo.

Gabe,

In the first, second, and third picture, that is the dual banjo bolt. it is in the oil galley closest to the front of the engine.

The kit is supplied with two fittings and three crush washers that you will install on that double banjo bolt and thread into said galley. (make sure the threads are clean and no burrs on them before installing the banjo bolt, also make sure the bolt is torqued to 14 ft-lbs or 168 inch pounds.)

You need to reuse the factory banjo bolt in the rear(4th and 5th picture) with two new crush washers and a supplied fitting.

Since you are using the factory turbo you SHOULD USE the FACTORY turbo fitting. You can use the new supplied crush washers if you'd removed yours... ONLY USE the kits turbo fitting for non OEM turbos.

*Hint*

before using new crush washers, use 0000 steel wool and clean the surface that the washers will mate to, the supplied washers are aluminum and so is the cylinder head.

be CAREFUL not to get the steel fibers, nor the removed corrosion inside the galley!!

Gabe,

In the first, second, and third picture, that is the dual banjo bolt. it is in the oil galley closest to the front of the engine.

The kit is supplied with two fittings and three crush washers that you will install on that double banjo bolt and thread into said galley. (make sure the threads are clean and no burrs on them before installing the banjo bolt, also make sure the bolt is torqued to 14 ft-lbs or 168 inch pounds.)

 

You need to reuse the factory banjo bolt in the rear(4th and 5th picture) with two new crush washers and a supplied fitting.

Since you are using the factory turbo you SHOULD USE the SUPPLIED fittings(and crush washers) from the kit INSTEAD of the factory turbo fitting.(The opposite is when the turbo in not OEM)

 

*Hint*

before using new crush washers, use 0000 steel wool and clean the surface that the washers will mate to, the supplied washers are aluminum and so is the cylinder head.

be CAREFUL not to get the steel fibers, nor the removed corrosion inside the galley!!

Thanks for all of the info. I'm still having trouble with the longer line though.

I found this picture from another thread:

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/turbo/oil_feed/DSC08093.JPG

and the red square is the back of the engine where the turbo is getting it's oil from now. and up front with the orange square is where the instructions tell me to hook up the new line directly to the turbo.

From my understanding I am completely taking off that oil line that you see in the picture and I am supposed to put a bolt into the "Oil feed from the head" to block it off. Then the AVCS gets the filter and such to route directly to the turbo. But in the pictures for the full kit and you said the front of the engine I don't see why I need a dual banjo bolt because if it's an entirely separate place then there's not two of the extra lines to use the dual banjo.

If installing the AVCS line you completely remove the factory pipe. You no longer need/use the supplied cap (nothing to cap anymore).

You re-use the OEM 12mm banjo bolt (the filtered one) with either kit. You can remove the OEM filter from the bolt.

The supplied double banjo bolt goes at the passenger side OCV. We are moving the "T" to the front of the motor where it is more accessible.

If using an OEM turbo DO NOT use the supplied 10mm turbo oil feed banjo bolt. Re-use the OEM turbo oil feed banjo bolt. The supplied bolt will flow far too much oil for an OEM turbo. You must use the OEM bolt as a final restrictor. Most aftermarket journal bearing turbos will use the supplied bolt. Ball bearing turbos should come with their own restrictor.

I edited my last post. Mike I was not aware that you could overfeed a turbo... Can you elaborate?

You can blow all of the seals by having too much oil pressure.

If installing the AVCS line you completely remove the factory pipe. You no longer need/use the supplied cap (nothing to cap anymore).

 

You re-use the OEM 12mm banjo bolt (the filtered one) with either kit. You can remove the OEM filter from the bolt.

 

The supplied double banjo bolt goes at the passenger side OCV. We are moving the "T" to the front of the motor where it is more accessible.

 

If using an OEM turbo DO NOT use the supplied 10mm turbo oil feed banjo bolt. Re-use the OEM turbo oil feed banjo bolt. The supplied bolt will flow far too much oil for an OEM turbo. You must use the OEM bolt as a final restrictor. Most aftermarket journal bearing turbos will use the supplied bolt. Ball bearing turbos should come with their own restrictor.

Thanks for posting this, confirmed what I thought basically.

I'm still new to engine terminology and especially being under the hood of a Subaru. Like I said before it would be great if you made those instructions for the full kit.

You can blow all of the seals by having too much oil pressure.

 

 

 

Thanks for posting this, confirmed what I thought basically.

 

I'm still new to engine terminology and especially being under the hood of a Subaru. Like I said before it would be great if you made those instructions for the full kit.

More so an issue of floating the bearings causing them to temporarily seize and form flat spots.

Hey all and thanks Mike for the V2 version, love the big filter! A couple things I noticed for the 08 OBXT install was the small bracket that needs to be bent out of the way slightly as you can see in the pics below.

Also I noticed it does not have the same oil line routing as my 06 did and wondered if there still was a filter problem on my 08? Thanks!

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20150613_104426_zpsajcqmbw8.jpg

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20150613_112958_zpsatlih4ms.jpg

Floating the bearings would be the number 1 concern with too much oil.

On the "bracket" and routing, there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. Some owners remove the "blast shields", some owners notch them, some owners go under/over, etc.

Having to rotate the filer bracket "upside down" is also normal. It can be a lower case "d" or a backwards "P". Whatever fits best for your application.

I meant my OEM oil line routing, not the routing of the kit itself. I like this setup better than the last.

My oil line from the capped off portion does not look like the pic below and it is routed differently. Was wondering where the BB filter was located on my 08 OBXT.

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/turbo/oil_feed/DSC08093.JPG

I meant my OEM oil line routing, not the routing of the kit itself. I like this setup better than the last.

 

My oil line from the capped off portion does not look like the pic below and it is routed differently. Was wondering where the BB filter was located on my 08 OBXT.

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/turbo/oil_feed/DSC08093.JPG

From the pictures you posted it looks exactly the same way as it is pictured there. The BB filter from the heads should be along the back passenger side located just under the turbo. There's a little bracket that attaches the turbo to the heads down there and it's right behind that.

Hahaha that's cause it's the same picture. I am saying my OEM oil line route does not look like the one in the picture.

The pictures that you posted of your bay are what I am referring to.

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20150613_104426_zpsajcqmbw8.jpg

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20150613_112958_zpsatlih4ms.jpg

I'll try and post a pic to clarify. On mine it goes from the capped oil line down into the block vertically like the other BB and not horizontally like pictured above.

That'd help

Here's some pics, but not the best. The first is to show you where the capped oil line is routed the 2nd you can see the top of the same cap and the orange marked BB vertically mounted on the top of the block rather than horizontally on the back side like my 06 LGT.

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20150614_083322_zpsyrwwbkij.jpg

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/Edit_zps7qlqercp.jpg

@N.Y.X.

YOur bottom picture is a little disorienting, but from the top picture it looks the same as it does in my '05 outback. Turbo line, down then turns horizontal then back to vertical going to the oil feed from the heads.

On the 07-09 cars the oil galley location was moved from the back of the head to under the turbo inlet manifold. It is now vertical rather than horizontal. The 05-06 feed galley still exists on an 07-09. It has a bolt in it blocking oil flow.

I found this out swapping to my "D" heads from "B" heads.