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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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I've had a vibration in my front end since I got my subie, I've done tires, rim swaps balanced the crap out of the tires done front axles/ checked all joints and still had a vibration. I have lived with it for about 30k miles. well this past weekend I did front pads and rotors and now I can actually drive at 75-80 with out any vibration!! come to find out it was the rotors that weren't balanced!!!! thanks to meineke for putting on the last set from the previous owner. I would never recommend using there crap of brakes ever!! I installed a new set from advance autoparts there silver line. so far no issues I've gone about 250 miles so far. cost threw my work about $75 for them :) Edited by 94legacy22
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Well i looked EVERYWHERE!! And no one has the parts! It almost makes me want to sting away from subaru, its sad because until now i was completely in love with them. I ended up having to order a junk yard 5 speed with 160k miles. It kind of sucks, because im all setup to drop this ej22t in and also i don't even know if my flywheel will bolt up to the ej22t block, nor am i sure if the 5 speed will even mate up, im going to test fit it all out when i get my newerrr trans in and check and see if it matches up to the ej22t, unless someone can illuminate me on this question. When im done im sure ill have plenty of intel, if not i will be putting all the ej22t heads and junk on my ej22 block. lemme know i guess if u have any knowledge of this yo. laters -Aaron
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I got some new Rims/Tires, alignment, Restored my Wiper arms and got new blades, and got myself a sticker. That ads at least 50 HP right? Also checked the diff oil levels.

 

http://i.imgur.com/X7LZXpS.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/ZIGNMFX.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/RjCCnQf.jpg

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I got some new Rims/Tires, alignment, Restored my Wiper arms and got new blades, and got myself a sticker. That ads at least 50 HP right? Also checked the diff oil levels.

 

http://i.imgur.com/X7LZXpS.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/ZIGNMFX.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/RjCCnQf.jpg

 

Looks so good! I wish mine was that clean!

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Looks so good! I wish mine was that clean!

 

Thanks man! I got pretty lucky with the find. eventually ittl need a new transmission because the Speedo gears are shot, but i want to do a 5mt swap anyways, i just use a GPS for my speedo, and i don't really care about miles because i don't EVER plan on getting rid of it.

 

There is a little dent on the drivers side behind the gas door and a gnarly one on the hood, but a little body work will do wonders! i want it painted yellow..

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How many pounds can my ej22t motor take? and does anyone know which part # if any is correct for ARP studs, or any higher performance head studs would be? Brand and number would be cool, i found some arp numbers on their site but im not sure if they will really work, they don't specifically say they do. eBay is also confusing me.
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^Don't waste your money on ARP case bolts or head studs. Stock are just fine. The head studs aren't necessary unless you are pushing 400 hp or so. The case bolts will cause clearance issues with your crank unless you do some machining to the block.

 

Are you using the 22T heads? If you are using 205 heads, again, the stock studs are just fine for plenty of power.

 

Your 22T block can take a lot of psi if you upgrade the internals. A stock shortblock can handle 20 psi or more but for how long and how reliable can and will vary. People have run over 35 psi but that is with a lot of up[porting mods. The stock crank is plenty good for 300+ hp. The rods are pretty good but STi rods are a cheap and easy upgrade. The pistons are OK but if you are splitting the block upgrade them as well. Wisecos aren't too expensive. It also depends on what you are doing for engine management because a bad tune will blow up your engine quick. The stock 22T ecu will only allow you to run 12-13 psi before fuel cut unless you make a fuel cut defender and install a manual boost gauge. Personally I wouldn't run over 12 psi with stock internals and the stock VF11/12 or a TD04 along with a tmic of course.

 

If you are going the stroker route then you are looking at dropping a few grand for internals and you will need a standalone or use a wrx or sti ecu with matching heads and intake mani, sensors, etc.

Edited by monkeyposeur
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Killed some time over the weekend by sanding down all this surface rust and priming the rear of the car.

 

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/SeQzL6Uh.jpg

 

After:

http://i.imgur.com/8FGYU6Kh.jpg

 

It's slowly coming together. Good thing there is plenty to keep me busy while I am on the seemingly impossible hunt for a running Ej22.

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Love the steering wheel. What hub did you have to use for it to bolt on?

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Love the steering wheel. What hub did you have to use for it to bolt on?

 

I actually got lucky and found a new old Stock hub from a 80's GL on Ebay and the spline pattern matched right up :)

 

http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/gurlsaynobiz1/20131212_1427541_zps5384a588.jpg

Edited by subiedoutlegacy
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i swapped out the stereo that was put in there (the sliding face was acting up not working) with an other after market and replaced the front speakers with some old pioneers we had in storage. also im hoping and praying that the ac compressor is just stuck and not seized so im going to head to the advance auto parts to barrow the clutch tool to try and rotate it my self, if all else fails what year compressor fit in a 93 legacy wagon N/A?
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Should be able to turn the compressor manually without taking the belt off. It should feel some resistance if it makes good compression. I go to the junkyard and find one that spins with slight compression and one that theres still pressure in the system. Just have to worry about the flanges where the ac lines hook up, any first gen should work

Took off my front bumper and sprayed it with undercoating, then tomorrow I will paint it white. Hopefully this prevents chipping on the highway. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20140509_173101_zps1e5b7054.jpg

Edited by USLiberty
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I had a fun afternoon learning how to replace an alternator. Considering the fact that a few weeks a go I didn't even know where to find the alternator, it was quite the project for me. So fun.

 

Bought a used one and had a friend nearby just because I was a bit unsure of some things. I usually come here and read what I can first, watch a few YouTube how-to videos, and then try my best.

 

Worked out great - I did need help with one bolt because it was really rusted on and I didn't have the strength to loosen it. Oh, and the new bushing (I think that is what it's called) was protruding more than the old one so it needed a bit of adjustment. Wasn't quite sure if it was okay to hammer on the metal or what. If I had been alone I think I would've put some grease or WD-40 on it.

 

Next project, changing my own oil. Just need to find a proper container and purchase the oil and filter :)

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Also, when the alternator was out, I noticed some radiator fluid pooling up somewhere that it shouldn't be. Could I please have some help and information on what I should be looking for and maybe how I could repair it? I checked the rad and it was full of fluid, as was the container, so I don't know how that fluid got there..

 

http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/tasteliberty/media/coolant1.jpg.html[url=http:http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/tasteliberty/media/coolant1.jpg.html//][/url]

Edited by Liberty10
photo link wasn't working
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Hard to tell from that picture, there's a coolant crossover pipe that's bolted to the block, your top radiator hose is connected to it. I'd clean the fluid up, get it hot and try to spot the leak.
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