6MT Master Swap Thread

Thought he said the RS3 were a second slower...

Oh I miss heard it and the way they worded it was a little confusing to me. You are right though they did say the RS3's were slower.

The point was DCCD not the driving skills. [emoji849]

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Not that I'm aware of, unless you had a Legacy shaft and picked up an OBK shaft this time. The carrier bearing has some extra height to it for the OBKs, but you can run either on either car really.

This ^

If its cheaper Id take the spec B shaft over the 4eat

Sounds good, thank you. We'll see if I can get the spec b driveshaft quickly and cheaply enough for it to make sense.

So I completed my 6 speed swap off an 06 sti a while back maybe 3 months ago, I used new oem sti flywheel/PP/clutch and it drove amazing no issues at all... until a couple days ago that is.

I was at a stop sign facing uphill, put it in 1st and was slowly releasing the clutch when I felt something in the car shift and heard a hardly noticeable soft "pop" sound. Then the clutch started slipping really bad, like undriveable bad. I can limp the car around very slowly without it slipping but I got it towed anyways.

The reason i'm posting here is because I am about to tear into the car and see what the hell is going on but I thought I would see if anyone here has any guesses one what it might be or if anyone has had the same problem before I go dropping the trans again.

The car still goes into every gear fine and it appears I have the same problems in all gears if that helps at all. Also I used a cheap $45 tekton 1/2 torque wrench I got off amazon that ranges from 10-150ft lbs so it may not be the most accurate (never again) however I did use red loctite on everything. I am thoroughly stumped and any input is appreciated!

I'd bet your issue has nothing to do with your torque specs. The fact that you're using a torque wrench puts you way ahead of most clutch changers. My first guess is that you're having a throw out bearing/pressure plate finger issue. If you're slipping, then your clutch is slipping between your pressure plate and flywheel. We can confidently say that your flywheel is still bolted to your crank so I'd look for an issue with the clutch form before I pulled the transmission. Pull the slave cylinder and the fork lever plug and rod first to examine the clutch fork. You'll have to pull all this stuff anyway to remove the trans. Pull the clutch fork boot off and shine a flashlight down into the bellhousing to see if anything obvious comes up. Also, take a look at the flywheel cover on the bottom of the trans for any debris that may have gotten stuck in there or broken off of the clutch/pp.

Those would be the first steps I would take before pulling the trans.

Also, how is your pedal feel since is "popped"?

Slipping? did you slip the clutch enough to make it smoke/stink? Do you have a DCCD controller hooked up to the DCCD?

If the answer is "no", it mite not be the tranny. Before you drop the tranny. Check to see if all your axles are seated all the way. If just one axle as popped out. You won't have enough pressure on both sides of the DCCD & it will act like your clutch is slipping with out the smoke/stink.

This is what happen to me after I did my swap. Left rear axle work it way out as I was accelerating out of a apex. I heard a pop & the RPM's revved up like it was in neutral. I could limp it home by turning the DCCD controller to "Full Lock", but even doing that it wouldn't take much torque to make RPM's rise like it was in neural.

It a place to start, good look.

I'd bet your issue has nothing to do with your torque specs. The fact that you're using a torque wrench puts you way ahead of most clutch changers. My first guess is that you're having a throw out bearing/pressure plate finger issue. If you're slipping, then your clutch is slipping between your pressure plate and flywheel. We can confidently say that your flywheel is still bolted to your crank so I'd look for an issue with the clutch form before I pulled the transmission. Pull the slave cylinder and the fork lever plug and rod first to examine the clutch fork. You'll have to pull all this stuff anyway to remove the trans. Pull the clutch fork boot off and shine a flashlight down into the bellhousing to see if anything obvious comes up. Also, take a look at the flywheel cover on the bottom of the trans for any debris that may have gotten stuck in there or broken off of the clutch/pp.

 

Those would be the first steps I would take before pulling the trans.

 

Also, how is your pedal feel since is "popped"?

Slipping? did you slip the clutch enough to make it smoke/stink? Do you have a DCCD controller hooked up to the DCCD?

 

If the answer is "no", it mite not be the tranny. Before you drop the tranny. Check to see if all your axles are seated all the way. If just one axle as popped out. You won't have enough pressure on both sides of the DCCD & it will act like your clutch is slipping with out the smoke/stink.

 

This is what happen to me after I did my swap. Left rear axle work it way out as I was accelerating out of a apex. I heard a pop & the RPM's revved up like it was in neutral. I could limp it home by turning the DCCD controller to "Full Lock", but even doing that it wouldn't take much torque to make RPM's rise like it was in neural.

 

It a place to start, good look.

Thank you guys so much for the help! I followed HAMMER DOWN's advice first because didn't smell any clutch when it was slipping and bingo BOTH rear axles were just barely popped out of the rear diff. I popped them back in and the problem was fixed!

I found tons of info on rear axles popping out so if it happens again I will be going through trying different solutions (new c clips etc.)

Edit: I think the reason mine popped out in the first place is because my rear toe adjustment bolts were all out of whack because I was just waiting to get new wheels/tires to get a professional alignment.

Need either an 07-09 Spec B drive shaft or one from an 05-09 4EAT 2.5i Legacy. Unless you're doing this on an Outback then source just an 05-09 4EAT 2.5i Outback shaft.

There's a difference in the Center Carrier Bearing mounts on the OBs IIRC, that changes the angle of the shaft from the transmission to the rear diff.

Has anybody used a DCCDpro wiring harness from iWire? It looks like it makes installation plun'n'play but costs about $780 if you want the complete setup

DCCD pro spiider

wiring harness for OEM plug n play - *still need to tap TPS sensor

OEM rocker and roller switch for dccd - need to cut console to mount in LGT

integrated LED indicator for diff lockup and auto mode

Here is my final parts list to make this swap happen. If anyone is still monitoring this thread please let me know if I've missed anything.

Vehicle: 2009 LGT 5mt

Swap Parts:

2008 STi 6MT/fw w/ crossmembers

R180 w/ R160 adapter

Spec B driveshaft and Axles - new seals F/R

6qt Motul 300 gear oil

STi Group N trans mount

KB shifter bushings F/R

KB trans crossmember bushings

Goodridge SS Clutch Hose

OEM DP bracket - P/N 44021FE030

6MT Flywheel Bolts - P/N 800610740 qty 8

DCCD Pro w/ iWire pnp harness & LED indicator

OEM DCCD roller/rocker switches

*I may need the spec b shift rod and linkage depending on how the shifter sits in the opening.

**Factory 5MT shift boot will be modified to fit the reverse lockout ring.

***5MT neutral safety swithch will be moved over to 6MT

I need to decide on a clutch - this swap comes with a used one. I will inspect and make a decision to install or replace, pending condition.

Sounds like you got it all.

On the axle seals for the MT, there is a Right & left hand seal.

Check part# to see if the 08 are different then 05 6MT

05 STi 6MT front half shaft seals:

Old# L\H 806735240 New# L\H 806735290

Old# R/H 806735230 New# R/H 806735300

And why'll you're there:

Tail shaft seal 806735210

Here is my final parts list to make this swap happen. If anyone is still monitoring this thread please let me know if I've missed anything.

 

Vehicle: 2009 LGT 5mt

 

Swap Parts:

 

2008 STi 6MT/fw w/ crossmembers

R180 w/ R160 adapter

Spec B driveshaft and Axles - new seals F/R

6qt Motul 300 gear oil

STi Group N trans mount

KB shifter bushings F/R

KB trans crossmember bushings

Goodridge SS Clutch Hose

OEM DP bracket - P/N 44021FE030

6MT Flywheel Bolts - P/N 800610740 qty 8

DCCD Pro w/ iWire pnp harness & LED indicator

OEM DCCD roller/rocker switches

 

 

*I may need the spec b shift rod and linkage depending on how the shifter sits in the opening.

**Factory 5MT shift boot will be modified to fit the reverse lockout ring.

***5MT neutral safety swithch will be moved over to 6MT

 

I need to decide on a clutch - this swap comes with a used one. I will inspect and make a decision to install or replace, pending condition.

What were the deciding factors that has you choose to do the swap?

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I need to decide on a clutch - this swap comes with a used one. I will inspect and make a decision to install or replace, pending condition.

Unless _crazy_ power/usage go with new STI OEM

Having had "performance" clutch in DD I'm bloody happy to have "normal" clutch again.

Spec B drive shaft (07-09) should bolt directly to the R180 differential without the need for R160 adapter. Perfect fit from trans to rear diff.

Post pictures of what you picked up.

Deisel J - the decision was based on a few things. First, my 5MT needs a new 3rd gear synchro. Second, my car is already making a lot more power than the 5MT was designed for, and the motor is just a tune away from running E85. This means that the 5MT is the limiting factor in my setup right now, so either a built 5MT or a 6MT swap. Third reason, I want to experience this car with Limited Slip Differentials.

Tema- how much power is the OEM exedy clutch rated for? I'm guessing that I will be in the 350-400whp/tq after I'm tuned on E85.

SBT- I will post some pics when I get home later in the week. Peter at PMP mentioned that he is installing the adapter on the R180. I am under the impression that he is shipping me a SpecB driveshaft. I may be mistaken.

Deisel J - the decision was based on a few things. First, my 5MT needs a new 3rd gear synchro. Second, my car is already making a lot more power than the 5MT was designed for, and the motor is just a tune away from running E85. This means that the 5MT is the limiting factor in my setup right now, so either a built 5MT or a 6MT swap. Third reason, I want to experience this car with Limited Slip Differentials.

Once you have all the parts and installed, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. I'm seriously debating on the upgrade. Where did you source your parts?

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PMP AutoGroup for the main swap stuff

HeuBerger,Oakos,fastwrx, and dccdpro for bits and pieces

Still may need a clutch.

CODE - I appreciate your info a lot. What clutches are you looking at if you have to replace?

For everyone who has gone from 5MT to 6MT, I've read mixed reviews for a DD.

Some say the 5MT with blast plates is better for a daily, and some swear the 6MT is superior in every way.

I am mainly looking at the 6MT swap for:

1) Stronger transmission

2) Another gear for better RPM control

3) Limited slip diffs ( Thanks CODE for another thing to google;

For those who have spent the money and time, is the 6MT swap worth it or do you wish you'd just gone with blast plates?