Plug boots - my hands aren't that small

I am going to replace my spark plug cables but I started looking at the plug boots. I attempted to pull a boot off using the normal twisting, pulling but no go. There is almost zero room to pull on that boot.

 

How the heck are you to get these boots off?

 

I thought there was little room to do it on a 2.2 but this 2.5 is ridiculous. I don't even want to think about a spark plug removal. I am not even sure if you could get a normal boot removal tool into the area.

 

1997 Outlook Limited with a 50,000 mile 2000 2.5 engine transplant.

It helps to pull some components off or out of the way (air filter housing, windshield washer fluid reservoir, etc).

Thanks.

 

I was thinking of that but it didn't look like it would help much but I guess you can get a better angle on it.

 

It helps to pull some components off or out of the way (air filter housing, windshield washer fluid reservoir, etc).

I did my old 98 outback from the bottom. To just do plugs not wires. Once you do get them replaced use some dielectric grease on them. Helps to protect from corrosion and makes easier to get off next time.

I always remove the air box, upper and lower parts and also the washer fluid bottle. With these parts out of the way it makes it much easier to remove the wires and plugs. I tend to work the boots around to break them loose off the plugs. Far as the plugs I use my special Matco magnetic spark plug sockets that have a swivel and extension built all in one. These things work FN awesome!! If you don't have them then use a spark plug socket, a 3" extension, a swivel then a 12" extension and ratchet. In that order for the right side. For the left side by the washer bottle use the socket, a 1" extension then the swivel then the 12" extension. The left side if harder because it's closer to the frame rail. GL and I hope this helps.

Make sure you use Anti-seize on the spark plug threads and diaelectric grease on the boots where the plugs will go into and where the wires go onto the coil pack. You usually get a small bit with the wires but it's never enough to due all four wires both sides, so you might want to buy a tube. It looks like a rtv tube. Diaelectric grease comes in handy for a lot, like connectors and what not.

I always use dielectric and anti-seize. I have a feeling the guy that installed new plugs didn't put dielectric on the boots. I also doubt if used anti-seize.

 

I'm anal about using dielectric and anti-seize on stuff.

 

Make sure you use Anti-seize on the spark plug threads and diaelectric grease on the boots where the plugs will go into and where the wires go onto the coil pack. You usually get a small bit with the wires but it's never enough to due all four wires both sides, so you might want to buy a tube. It looks like a rtv tube. Diaelectric grease comes in handy for a lot, like connectors and what not.

yes the space is tight and yes it is challenging but it can be done if you take your time and use the right tools.

 

your other options are to pay $100 to have it done, or not do it.

I'm a 60 year old guy that has used his hands a lot. Playing guitar with my strange jazz spread your fingers to the max chords, pushing them into a lot of engine spaces and a bout of Lyme disease has given me some arthritis. If I could have someone do it for $100 I'd possibly do it to bypass the pain. BUT I hate having anyone work on my cars. I have 5 cars and do 99% of the work on them. The UPS guy has delivered a lot of parts up my driveway.

 

I'll see how it goes once I remove a few items and give it a try.

 

yes the space is tight and yes it is challenging but it can be done if you take your time and use the right tools.

 

your other options are to pay $100 to have it done, or not do it.

for me , i would do the easier 3 first, (1,2,3) and then move on to #4, the hardest one. that way i not only have 3 successes under my belt, but i get to use what i learned on the first 3 and adapt it to the last one.

 

all subaru DOHC engines are a pain to swap plugs, since the plugs tubes are all horizontal. they have to fit in between the the cam shafts. SOHC are much easier since the plug tubes are angled up.

 

buy a six pack of your favorite beverage and have at it.

reward yourself as you go.

just don't plan on having to go any where real soon.

for me , i would do the easier 3 first, (1,2,3) and then move on to #4, the hardest one. that way i not only have 3 successes under my belt, but i get to use what i learned on the first 3 and adapt it to the last one.

 

all subaru DOHC engines are a pain to swap plugs, since the plugs tubes are all horizontal. they have to fit in between the the cam shafts. SOHC are much easier since the plug tubes are angled up.

 

buy a six pack of your favorite beverage and have at it.

reward yourself as you go.

just don't plan on having to go any where real soon.

 

I drink the 6 pack first, seems to make it go better;)

I can fully sympathize with you, DrWho. I am disabled and can only do a fraction on the car like I used to be able. I now have to hire a mechanic to do much of what I was able to do 10 years ago ( I am 44 yrs old now ). I was able to switch out the plugs with a little patience, moving some components out of the way and taking a few breaks. Using articulated/jointed socket extensions also helped quit a bit. No shame in taking the parts to a mechanic and having them do the work if it is too much. Good luck.

A six pack always makes the medicine go down better the other thing is to have someone else imbibing with you. Talking with someone else while working always makes an easier job.

 

for me , i would do the easier 3 first, (1,2,3) and then move on to #4, the hardest one. that way i not only have 3 successes under my belt, but i get to use what i learned on the first 3 and adapt it to the last one.

 

all subaru DOHC engines are a pain to swap plugs, since the plugs tubes are all horizontal. they have to fit in between the the cam shafts. SOHC are much easier since the plug tubes are angled up.

 

buy a six pack of your favorite beverage and have at it.

reward yourself as you go.

just don't plan on having to go any where real soon.

I'm a 60 year old guy that has used his hands a lot. Playing guitar with my strange jazz spread your fingers to the max chords, pushing them into a lot of engine spaces and a bout of Lyme disease has given me some arthritis. If I could have someone do it for $100 I'd possibly do it to bypass the pain. BUT I hate having anyone work on my cars. I have 5 cars and do 99% of the work on them. The UPS guy has delivered a lot of parts up my driveway.

 

I'll see how it goes once I remove a few items and give it a try.

 

You've probably been playin guitar longer than I've been alive. I love playing jazz guitar modes and scales, while applying it to the heavier stuff I write.

 

Jazz ain't no joke

I wonder if a pickle fork (tie rod fork) could pull on the "T" part while a long needle nose pliers pulls on the tab part of the boot would work?

 

I've been doing a lot of those chords that stretch your fingers to the limit and for a long time. My scaphoid up through to my thumb are so bad, if you squeeze my hand there I could yell. Ouch! So now at 60 my worry is that it will head into my fingers. I remember watching Les Paul playing when he was old and he could still play but it was kind of minimal. Perhaps I'll get the slide out and buy a dobro.

 

 

You've probably been playin guitar longer than I've been alive. I love playing jazz guitar modes and scales, while applying it to the heavier stuff I write.

 

Jazz ain't no joke

There is a tool that is basically what you described to get the boot off. That "T" flange on the top of the boot is strong enough to grab onto, so don't worry about hurting it. Wiggling the boot gently in a clockwise/counter clockwise motion while pulling it out helps a bunch to as it will get the lip on the inner boot started.

 

 

The dielectric grease is key so this wont be as a pain next time.

Since we're talking about guitars I have been playing a 1930s National wood body resophonic guitar for 20 years. Also built violins and cellos for a living.

 

I'd come over and drink your beer and help you out if you were closer.

Ooh guitars .. down to one now. Martin acoustic. Love it.

Hi guys,

I have found this thread really helpful. I am about to change the plugs on my 1997 legacy GT-B, its a 2Litre turbo, Japanese import (i live in new zealand), and we get heaps of Japanese imports. i cant find information on what type of spark plugs to buy. i know i need to platinum tip ones, but not sure what type. in new zealand, we have to pay $100 per plug, plus Tax and labour. so i want to do it myself. any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

This might help:

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/

 

Do you have the owner's manual?

$100 a plug? WOW. I think i gave $10 a plug last time.

I don't think a pickle fork would work good at the boots are rubber. Maybe if it fit tightly in that area and was smaller then a fork you might be on to something. Usually just jerking them around a bit works for me but if your replacing the wires just use some long needle nose pliers.

This might help:

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/

 

Do you have the owner's manual?

 

Thanks Hemingway, unfortunately I can't find my model on that website? It might be due to the fact we get Japanese market cars in New Zealand.

 

I decided to remove the #1 spark plug, and found it was a NGK-PFR6G spark plug.

 

I went to the local autostore (REPCO) and spoke to the guys there. One of the guys who has the same car as me said I could install some basic NGK plugs, which are. A fraction of the price of platinum plugs, just that they won't last as long.

 

Should I install them (NGK-BKR6EY)? Or go for the platinum? I don't mind changing them every 30,000km.

 

Cheers.