Honest thoughts on my suspension and BBK plan, with parts list.

I recently purchased these from another member: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-ca-rce-t1-coilovers-500lb-rates-gtworx-camber-plates-256075.html

 

In addition I plan to order these:

1. AVO Rear Stabilizer Mount Brace
   
2. 5mm Hub centric wheel spacer from Adaptec Speedware (To clear Stoptech BBK)
   
3. Kartboy Front and Rear Endlink Combo
   
4. Whiteline Anti Lift Kit Race Version (With .33 +Caster)
   
5. Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit
   
6. Whiteline Rear Lateral Link Kit
   
7. Stoptech ST-40 Big Brake Kit 332mm Red Slotted Rotors (Front)
   
8. Stoptech ST-22 Big Brake Kit 328mm Red Slotted Rotors (Rear)
   
9. Whiteline Rear Sway Bar 20mm (Adjustable)
   
10. Whiteline Front Sway Bar 22mm (Adjustable)
    
11. Kartboy Whiteline Front Swaybar Spacers (If needed)
    

 

Yes, I've read a lot about suspension and big brake kits. Though, I'm new to the game and learning.

 

Did I miss anything?

Anyone prefer one manufacturer over another?

 

Goal: To split comfort with performance. I'm never going to track, or race for that matter. Yet, I still want it to take the twistiest roads without hesitation.

I recently purchased these from another member: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-ca-rce-t1-coilovers-500lb-rates-gtworx-camber-plates-256075.html

 

In addition I plan to order these:

1. AVO Rear Stabilizer Mount Brace
   
2. 5mm Hub centric wheel spacer from Adaptec Speedware (To clear Stoptech BBK)
   
3. Kartboy Front and Rear Endlink Combo
   
4. Whiteline Anti Lift Kit Race Version (With .33 +Caster)
   
5. Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit
   
6. Whiteline Rear Lateral Link Kit
   
7. Stoptech ST-40 Big Brake Kit 332mm Red Slotted Rotors (Front)
   
8. Stoptech ST-22 Big Brake Kit 328mm Red Slotted Rotors (Rear)
   
9. Whiteline Rear Sway Bar 20mm (Adjustable)
   
10. Whiteline Front Sway Bar 22mm (Adjustable)
    
11. Kartboy Whiteline Front Swaybar Spacers (If needed)
    

 

Yes, I've read a lot about suspension and big brake kits. Though, I'm new to the game and learning.

 

Did I miss anything?

Anyone prefer one manufacturer over another?

 

Goal: To split comfort with performance. I'm never going to track, or race for that matter. Yet, I still want it to take the twistiest roads without hesitation.

 

For Endlinks everything I've heard is that the Kartboys don't always fit right and that the MOOG ones do and are much cheaper.

 

Antilift kit might be unnecessary. I don't have one on my car and have no issues and I'm pretty low. I do have the Whiteline KCA313 Roll Center kit though.

 

Sway bar choices are pretty good IMO. I'm always on the lookout for the discontinued Perrin 25mm rear sway bar. I currently have the Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm adjustable rear.

 

As far as BBK's go I haven't done too much research myself. I just plan on picking up a set of OEM STi brembos when I get the chance.

Everything listed there will work very well together. I didn't buy the Kartboy spacers for the front though, I just used some zinc plated washers, that way you can stack them as needed to match to your particular swaybar. You just want the endlinks to be vertical relative to the ground.

You don't notice the difference the anti lift kit makes until you've driven with and without it back to back. I'm a huge advocate for it with my koni/h&r setup

For Endlinks everything I've heard is that the Kartboys don't always fit right and that the MOOG ones do and are much cheaper.

 

Great call on the MOOG endlinks. Ordered on Rockauto for $70 including shipping.

 

Sway bar choices are pretty good IMO. I'm always on the lookout for the discontinued Perrin 25mm rear sway bar. I currently have the Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm adjustable rear.

 

I thought that you wanted a larger front and smaller rear swaybar set up... Firstly, to mitigate understeer. Secondly, to increase forward end grip.

 

Why the 25mm rear then?

A larger front will actually bias the car to understeer and a larger rear will bias the car towards oversteer. With these cars having the rear be slightly larger seems to just make the car handling more neutral.

5mm spacers are a little thick to safely run on stock studs - either go with a 3mm spacer, different wheels, or get ARP/Nismo extended studs. Additionally, consider the street version of the whiteline ALK.

I was planning to do extended studs, I just forgot to put them on the list. Between those brands, you have a preference?

 

For the Street version, is that too reduce NVH?

 

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Street version is all polyurethane, the motorsport version is a spherical bearing. The street one will have less NVH. I'd go with ARP studs.

I was planning to do extended studs, I just forgot to put them on the list. Between those brands, you have a preference?

 

For the Street version, is that too reduce NVH?

 

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They're both quality hardware in different lengths - ARP stick out furthest and require open ended lugs, I personally don't like the look.

 

http://get-primitive.com/wheels-brakes/413-wheel-studs-std-to-long.html

Im new to the suspension game but I literally just installed all the suspension parts you listed this past weekend. Two parts I think you should add are the Whiteline rear toe lockout bolts which replace the factory rear toe adjustment bolts. The Whiteline website recommends them to be used with the rear lateral link kit as the new lateral links become the toe adjustment. Also, consider the front LCA front bushing cause it's cheap and easy to install. After the front LCA rear caster bushing, and the new ball joint from the roll center kit, it will be the only front LCA bushing not replaced.

 

If your gonna drop that much money on brakes, a master cylinder brace seems logical, along with some performance brake fluid.

 

What are you gonna use for top hats/ camber plates?

 

I have the Whiteline 22 and 20 adjustable swaybars with Kartboy endlinks front and rear. Endlinks were a little tricky to install but not bad. Ran one Kartboy spacer per side on the front for the stock bar and the Whiteline bar.

Hear the Moogs are good too. They are a different design than the Kartboys which makes them easier to install.

 

 

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First, you are all awesome with your help.

 

Yesterday I called Andrew at Pacific Import Auto, which is the shop that will do the suspension and motor work. After going through the list, his recommendation was to not go 0-100mph with all the parts.

 

Condensing the conversation: he said we should install the BBKs, 5mm spacers, RCE T1s, swaybars, front bushing kit (includes street ALK), and rear diff inserts. He felt the front roll center adjustment kit and rear lateral link kit could be installed after since I can adjust with the setup I bought from Scoobyscoodle. I do not plan to go crazy low, which I might not need the extra adjustment those kits provide.

 

The AVO rear stabilizers are more for track cars. Again, he said install later if I feel I need them.

 

As for extended studs, he has personally had cars with 5mm spacers that he didn't upgrade the wheel studs and were fine. I have read if you have 6-8 turns on the lug nuts, you are in the green. So for the M12-1.25 studs on the car now, if I did the math correctly I will only lose 4 threads.

 

I plan on removing 1 lug nut on my car today and measuring the number of threads I have with my wheels, and seeing if I have 7+ threads left over. If I do, I should be in the green right?

 

 

What are you gonna use for top hats/ camber plates?

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-ca-rce-t1-coilovers-500lb-rates-gtworx-camber-plates-256075.html

 

Hear the Moogs are good too.

I like the MOOGs because they are serviceable without removing them and that they have reviews of being more "heavy duty" compared to other brands.

One thing that completely slipped my mind before is you should get the AVO rear sway bar bracket braces. Just to make sure you don't twist and damage the weak stock mounting points.

I plan on removing 1 lug nut on my car today and measuring the number of threads I have with my wheels, and seeing if I have 7+ threads left over. If I do, I should be in the green right?

 

That's true. It depends on the wheels you're running and how much material there is behind the lug seat - my wheels only had 4 turns of engagement with the 5mm spacers.

 

The AVO rear stabilizers are more for track cars. Again, he said install later if I feel I need them.

One thing that completely slipped my mind before is you should get the AVO rear sway bar bracket braces. Just to make sure you don't twist and damage the weak stock mounting points.

 

Yes yes yes - I thought you were talking about the sway bar brackets. Buy the sway bar brackets, repairing the mounts once they fail is a real PITA

So get the AVO brackets anyway?

I am referring to these: http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/24/products_id/147

Yeah, definitely do the AVO rear swaybar brackets with an upgraded rear swaybar. Thought that's what you meant in your OP. I installed these when I had stock swaybars and as I tightened everything up, they pulled my stock swaybar mounts back to where they originally were. So if a stock swaybar can bend the factory swaybar mounts, an aftermarket swaybar most definitely can bend them.

 

 

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Yup those are what I thought you were talking about originally but then remembered theres other AVO bracing that you don't need that thats what PIA might have thought you meant.

Thanks again, you guys are helping me learn a lot.

 

Did you all piece your suspensions one part at a time, or did you do it all in one go?

I pieced together the swaybars, endlinks, and those AVO swaybar brackets because they don't alter the alignment.

Did springs, shocks, bushings, bump steer kit and rear control arms all at the same time so to only pay for one alignment.

 

 

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Which bump steer kit and rear control arms did you go with?

I've pieced mine all together. But I typically have only done one item that changes alignment per year. I like to get my alignment checked once a year anyway so I just do it then and get my alignment done after that.

STI Master brake cylinder for better brake feel/modulation with the BBK?

Which bump steer kit and rear control arms did you go with?

 

 

 

What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 6!

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Fp%3D5484083&share_tid=256156&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&share_pid=5484083

 

 

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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 6!

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Fp%3D5484083&share_tid=256156&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&share_pid=5484083

 

 

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That is crazy and badass. Did the front AVO brace help with the "shudder" at low rpm in first? IE stop and go traffic.

 

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STI Master brake cylinder for better brake feel/modulation with the BBK?

I plan to do a brake brace when I upgrade my motor; EWG, VF52, Grimspeed TMIC, etc.

 

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