Installing SS brake lines.. Stuck! Need help.

Never was thinking that I could stuck at this.. However, here we go: I can't get loose brake line nuts (one wheel was ok, but others is not) .. Have rounded several already.

Tried to use a flare wrench, vise grip, nothing helped. (In fact, my regulat M10 wrench is better then flare wrench I got in autozone) .. Any ideas how I get it done? The worst part that these nuts are on a metal pipes, not sure how i can have those rounded ones get fixed without replacing the whole brake line.

 

Any advise will be apressiated..

 

Alex

 

Add: Yes, I had PB blaster on them..

In short...you're doing everything possible. Installing stainless lines on Subaru's in a horrendous experience. I'd say keep going at the with the vice grips. The nuts will most likely be completely rounded off. I found it easier to actually leave the clips installed, while trying to torque on the nuts. Give that a try and hopefully it will help. Good luck.

Maybe heat them with a torch (if they're far enough away from rubber)?

YES.. it was so awfull.. I broke one of vise grips, ending up taking off the whole assembly on a rear (was lucky to have it done on front before I broke a visegrip).

So, taked off the assmbly (2 rubber lines with steel pipe in between), and did everything on a table with a real vise.

However, will need to replace one of that steel (or whatever is that), as had damaged thread in it.

If I'd know it will be like this, I would pay a pro to do this. Now it is too late, hopefully will finish it tomorrow.

 

Thanks!

hey lepich, I did my SS lines @ 13,000 mi and I had to replace a shorty OEM brake hardline cause the flarenut would not budge. It was the RR short line that is attached to the rear control arm....sounds like the same one you had issue with.

 

So, I ran around for a day with 5/6 of the SS brake line package installed and went to Subaru and got a new one.

 

stinks, don't it?

^^ yeah, the same I have problem with. Driver side though. Hope dealer will have that hard line in stock.

I had the same struggles, I ended up using a pipe wrench, worked perfect even on the ones that were rounding off. Find a good (sharp teeth) small pipe wrench, it may be a last resort but it WILL work!

^yes, might need one.

BTW, do you remember, how tight i need to set these nuts when installing new lines? Should not be that much force as while removing them, I hope:-)

Yes, just tight enough not to leak, these are brass/aluminum fittings and should not require much force for them to properly seat and not leak. The fools at the factory did not seem to understand this.

I had to use the best tool in my arsenal: my mechanic.

 

I spent about 15 minutes trying to put the lines in, and after getting a feel for things, I gave up. The last time I tried to install SS lines on my last car, it was a nightmare so I knew from experience when to throw in the towel.

 

The thing is... I know how to do almost all the work I take to him. It's just that I don't have the tools. I watched him do the install of the stainless lines on my car... Tried the flare wrenches, vice grips, PBlaster, and then finally, had to torch the suckers. I'm glad I spent the tiny bit of money to have them do it. Not worth the aggravation to me.

Last time i had a job like that a mechanic family friend loaned me the best set of vise grips I've used. They had an female V on one side and a male V on the other and because of the V shape they gripped the nuts like a wrench. Almost no damage to the nuts and they were off in a flash.

I have a question about SS lines, if I install them myself, is it safe to drive 10 miles to my dealer for the brake fluid flush?

I have a question about SS lines, if I install them myself, is it safe to drive 10 miles to my dealer for the brake fluid flush?

you have to bleed them before you set the car on the ground.....you will have no brakes at all. other than that why would it not be safe?

was wondering if i could just have the dealership do the bleeding and flush in one swoop, i guess i'll just bleed it myself then.

Bleeding is the easy part

 

Folks, I have broken flare nut wrenches, and rounded off nuts because of cheap tools.

 

Seriously, atleast buy some craftsman flare nut wrenches. And if the wrench is flexing which allws it to round the nut itself, put the vise-grips on the flare nut wrench

i had the dealer put mine on and they couldn't even get them on properly. they thought they had them on and then my brake light came on and i was leaking fluid for few days, until i got new ones and i dunno the brake feel isnt much better. i think i need to reflush and bleed.

praedet is right, cheap tools can really hurt your nuts!

 

Seems like alot of people have issues with that little metal line. Glad I got mine off with no troubles.

^^ Agree 100%. Cheap flare nut was much worse than a more expencive regular one. Glad I have it all done now, going to bleed brakes and .. hope it will be fine:-)

You can use a torch to loosen them up, just remember this: brake fluid is flammable! if you're not confident doing it, don't.

if you are, a little heat is all that's needed; "cherry red" is dangerous and potentially explosive.

the system is sealed, so pressure will build up with heat...

Actually, I did use a tourch, heated some of them, but it did not work till I use a vise grip. And vise worked witout heating on a rest.

BTW, need to check if brake fluid is flamable. It does not look like it is, but I do not know for sure. Wuill get home and try to fire it up:-)

I don't suggest using heat on your brake lines. Remember the brake fluid is flamable...

 

As was said use a good set of flare-nut wrenches. Take your time, spray em down with PB Blaster. That's how we do em. The LGT ones are a special pain in the nuts...

 

-mike

put the vise-grips on the flare nut wrench

 

 

ill try it. vice grips work like a charm though. i threw my craftsman flare wrench across the garage and never looked back

^ I've returned mine yesterday.. Was useless for me:-).