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2005 5eat lgt vs. 2005 5mt lgt


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How do these two compare? I currently have a 2007 5MT LGT and i'm looking at a car for my wife. Yes, she likes having power under her foot and knows how to really drive. How much of a difference is there in the acceleration? She plans on upgrading to "stage 2" as well, and wants to compete with me on the track. I strictly would like to know acceleration/speed differences, not why the manual is better than the auto or vice-versa. Thank you guys for your help, it really does mean a lot. I appreciate any and all replies!
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in terms of power to the ground, manuals do it better. figure at least a 20% loss of power through an automatic trans.

 

the 5mts are known to have issues. some have tried running moore performance blast plates to stifffen the case, max capacity runs on on his 5mt. 6mt swaps on the leggys are not uncommon. for more on the swap see

sgt gator

 

the 5eats, are good daily driver transmissions. For a considerable chunk of money you could upgrade the valve body and the center differential, two known weak spots. 5eats dont like to be launched hard.

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the 5eat can handle more power, and starting in 2nd gear with a 3k launch the 5eat is a rocket to 60mph. however the handling and mpg of the 5mt is superior

 

also there is a shift kit, as well as DBW tuning that can make the 5eat feel pretty pepy

 

I have been meaning to try this. I'm assuming you put it in sport mode and use the wheel buttons to put it into gear two before you break torque it right? What RPM gave you a decent Launch?

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If you have money, the differences will be nil. If you are doing a budget build, will be small differences. 5eat has a max redline of 5500rpm, unless modified. 5mt has not max redline. 5mt can have different gears swapped in (expensive but possible ). Neither is going to last long if hammered, so your competition will be over quick.

 

If by on track you mean road racing, you're well beyond stage 2 at that point. If fastest lap, acceleration is rather meaningless.

 

If drag racing, 5eat will likely hold together longer. However you'll still want a hefty spare parts fund.

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I have been meaning to try this. I'm assuming you put it in sport mode and use the wheel buttons to put it into gear two before you break torque it right? What RPM gave you a decent Launch?

 

Dont launch it. You'll break things. If not now then eventually.

I bought an auto be more involved in my uninvolvedness . 200k+ Club

If you can't blind them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit.

My high mileage turd.

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The only things that're going to hold up to actual racing (on a consistent basis) will be a STi 6MT, or a 5MT with blast plates and PPG straight cut gears. Neither of which are budget friendly and the PPG 5MT still has a weaker rear end compounded with tons of gear whine. The only 5EAT that'll hold up to actual racing (on a consistent basis) is am IPT modded trans with the matching torque converter, and a trans cooler size matched and regulated to the application. Launching either the 5EAT or the 5MT will shatter things, after a while, in stock form. 5MT's like to shatter gears I believe. 5EAT's like to shatter center diff bearings, and overheat easily.

 

Really, if this is going to be a DD, it depends on how much the wifey likes three pedals in traffic. The 5EAT is a great DD trans, but gets poorer mileage and sacrifices power, in the name of autonomy. Either one will hold up on a track if used properly within its limitations and properly maintained.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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my 5eat shifts at 6.5krpm, not sure when it shifted before the dbw settings were changed, but i swear it was more than the 5.5k limit mentioned above.

 

when i launch in 2nd gear i put it in sport shift up to 2nd, then power brake till 3k, and get ready to shift long before redline due to the delay.

not saying this is safe but ive done it many times, 4.6sec 0-60 every time

only trans mod is more requested tq and a cheap cooler

 

if you do run a cooler put it before the cooler in the rad, the oem cooler can let temps get to high when driven hard. if engine temps are lowered via thermostat or fans, it will effective lower trans temp too!

if only an external cooler is used, it is possible to overcool the fluid if a thermostat type is not used,

on a budget best bet is to run an external first then into rad this will prevent overcooling because the rad will normalize temps and the externall will take care of extra cooling when needed

the shiftkits help a lot as do the requested tq values, both will increase line pressure and provide a better clamping force.

from what i have read and seen last in my circle the 5eat will take 500ish crank without needing a full overhaul.

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if only an external cooler is used, it is possible to overcool the fluid if a thermostat type is not used

 

Another thing to keep in mind is how well the cooler works when the vehicle is not moving. Had this issue on my accord before I did the 5MT swap.

 

Because reasons I wasn't able to/didn't keep the stock transmission cooler in the loop. This worked GREAT 99% of the time, until I was stuck in stop and go traffic on a hill and the car moved 60 feet in 45 minutes. During that time, the cooler had little to no airflow aside from the exhaust of the car ahead of me, and the trans overheated badly enough for the car to roll back in first. Definitely smeared the clutchpacks pretty badly that day, my previously exceptional autotragic (which shifted fast enough to bark second) wasn't the same after that.

 

Sometimes your purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others. That was my opportunity.

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yea the themostat type (with a fan) lol

 

ps. i have my a few cooling mods pin hole in thermostat, and fan temps lowered. took a while to get the fans just right in the tune, but made a huge difference, car used to hit 206 f often, now it runs between 180-189 never even hits 190

this alone will bring trans temps down 20 deg f on average since the oem cooler runs through the rad

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The auto is stronger? Its most definitely is not unless you upgrade the transmission. Stock for stock, the manual is stronger. It's also way more engaging. Ive launched my car probably 50-75 times. Half of those when stage 2 / stock and the other half with my 400whp. Transmission is doing just fine. I think it all comes down to how you launch the car.
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You don't see a lot of 5EATs at 400+ hp. Period.

 

 

Agreed. I'll probably get flak for my one sided opinion here, but nobody in their right mind buys a automatic trans car with plans of putting triple the stock power levels through it, and using it as a competitive platform.*

 

*- excludes PDK, double clutch autos, air actuated systems, and two speed 1500hp capable drag boxes.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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my buddy has an 05 lgt with hexmod and 18g @17psi he was dynoed at 400 TQ

mine is 05 OBXT with DBW tuned (digital shift kit) and 16g @22psi, we pull the same.

 

To get 400 TQ at the wheels requires 500 at the crank !

this verifies that the 5eat can handle 500 crank.

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my buddy has an 05 lgt with hexmod and 18g @17psi he was dynoed at 400 TQ

mine is 05 OBXT with DBW tuned (digital shift kit) and 16g @22psi, we pull the same.

 

To get 400 TQ at the wheels requires 500 at the crank !

this verifies that the 5eat can handle 500 crank.

 

Nobody said it wasn't possible, and certainly not with an 05-07 that is upgraded with a hexmod valve body.

 

But it's not common. And just in terms of numbers, failures in the 4-500hp range simply won't happen. The number of people modding and beating the shit out of manual cars is simply much higher and the reporting skew alone will make it seem like "more 5mt's fail than 5eats". Plain and simple, they DO fail more often because there are more of them being modded and beat on.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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If you think the 5eat is stronger you smoke lots of crack. There are probably 10-15 5eat trans legacygts putting down more then 400 whl tq/hp and hundreds if not thousands of 08+ wrxs and lgts pushing this much power. Pretty straight forward, over 300 tq the 5eat slips like a mother f*#{er. With a valve body upgrade they can handle more power but still are limited. The 5 speeds have and can handle all the power you can throw at it. Just don't drive like a dipshi* and cause the case to expand. Banging gears and driving like a jackass kills 5 speeds.
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If you think the 5eat is stronger you smoke lots of crack. There are probably 10-15 5eat trans legacygts putting down more then 400 whl tq/hp and hundreds if not thousands of 08+ wrxs and lgts pushing this much power. Pretty straight forward, over 300 tq the 5eat slips like a mother f*#{er. With a valve body upgrade they can handle more power but still are limited. The 5 speeds have and can handle all the power you can throw at it. Just don't drive like a dipshi* and cause the case to expand. Banging gears and driving like a jackass kills 5 speeds.

 

Id say the autos can handle 350 hp/tq with the VB mod. I wouldnt go past that personally but i think the sweet spot for autos is between 280-340 tq to the wheels and even that is more than the alot of out going sport autos.

I bought an auto be more involved in my uninvolvedness . 200k+ Club

If you can't blind them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit.

My high mileage turd.

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I'm running a Dom 3 on my 5EAT with the upgraded valve body from Dave and really have had no issues from the trans at all. I don't drive it everyday nor do I drive it like a boy racer either. They can deal with some decent power. Course with my turbo it doesn't really hit till much later in the power band so that helps the transmission greatly.
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