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Just realized that w the new grimmspeed (or process west I think) TMIC plus their (sti fitment silocone hose) we can now have any sti type turbo we want.. I ordered a gtx3071r but this EFR looks like the one w the latest tech for sure..
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Just realized that w the new grimmspeed (or process west I think) TMIC plus their (sti fitment silocone hose) we can now have any sti type turbo we want.. I ordered a gtx3071r but this EFR looks like the one w the latest tech for sure..

 

Makes me think if I should of got the SS EFR 7163 instead of the twin scroll version. oh well gone too far now.

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  • 2 months later...

sjxbrd

Remove the wrap from the elh and send them beautiful exhaust pieces out for ceramic coating. I've wrapping is great for keeping heat down but it causes the metal to fatigue and break quickly and holds in moisture causing them to rust. Great for a race car not a street car. I have even seen the mighty holy header cracked due to heat wrap.

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Well, SHE RUNS! Finally got the car back today. Still running on base map with 0 wastegate duty cycle, so turbo only boosts up to 10 psi spring pressure. The photo below shows the TMIC almost in its final state, you get the idea :) The core size is 17.75" x 9.85" x 3.5" from Vibrant. Sasha@Boosted Performance did a fantastic job, everything looks nice and fits great.

 

Initial driving impression is the throttle response is almost NA like, boost recovery between shifts and off/on throttle is instant. Cannot wait to have the car dyno tuned by Airboy.

 

Full mod list:

2005 LGT with 100K Miles

Stock Engine

BorgWarner EFR6258 T25 0.64 A/R IWG

GTSpec ELH

Custom up pipe

Custom down pipe

Custom TMIC

Custom 3" CBE

DW 740CC side feed injectors

DW65C fuel pump

Vex Performance FPR Kit

20150426_193205.thumb.jpg.18309fa630974d432b8fe94e3af1361f.jpg

Edited by sjxbrd
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  • 1 month later...

An update on my EFR 7163 tune:

Shiny new SS 7163 has replaced the smaller 6258 in my OBXT 5EAT.

The smaller 6258 was a hoot, especially on E85, a very Big jump over VF52, with NO loss of spool. Initial tuning results indicate 40-80hp more (on Cal91) with the 7163, with only 200rpm spool-up penalty.

E85 tune is in progress, I'll update as soon as its "stable", assuming the engine

(built for only ~500hp) will not blow up :)

The other question how will my 5EAT (built by HexMods) hold...

(it is holding okay so far, but e85 will have ~100lbtq to over 500,) probably a record for our 5EAT.

Edited by KGB
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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings EFR enthusiasts.

This weekend I drove my EFR 7163 SS equipped & tuned (by Paul @ YimiSport)

OBXT 5EAT (with HexMods VB)

Mostly issues free, I'll write up a review after I had it for a few weeks,

meanwhile, ask your questions and I'll try to answer...

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  • 1 month later...
Stock block wont hold 30psi. Heads will lift and/or cylinder wall will crack. You might get a pull or 2 before it all goes to hell. Dont go above 25psi on stock internals/gaskets. Even with forged internals we dont go over 25psi without upgraded head gaskets. We dont go over 27psi without a closed deck.
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Does anyone have the Full Race EFR Twin Scroll kit installed on their LGT? The shop I am having installing it, says there is not enough room to clear the strut tower for the inlet. otherwise itll just be a very tight bend for the inlet.
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Go to post #145 to see where I started having fitment problems

 

 

Thanks I wonder if they fixed your fitment issues on the current FR kits or if thats the same issues the shop Im working with is running into.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Q: Guess what happens when one takes EFR 7163 and plenty of e85 and combines them inside a built engine (rated 500hp)?

 

A: one dead rod and a very unhappy engine block + kaBOOM!

 

Selavi.

 

I may abandon the whole project or, invest in rebuilding the engine, this time taking the effort more seriously and managing it personally (previously I have trusted my local shop to do it right.)

 

Perhaps ppl would like to chime in with advice and suggestions how I should rebuild the engine, what components to use, and which to avoid.

 

As a reminder, I am building a DD street car, not a racer - my focus is to get as much as possible out of my setup in the low end and mid range, even if at the expense of the top end

(remember, my 06' OBXT is a built 5EAT automatic with unknown upper limit...)

 

Here is a list of what I came up thus far, with emphasis on aiming to achieve the best possible performance BELOW 4,000rpm.

Note that I use California 91 (and e85, when available.)

(a lot of the items on this list came as a result of my discussion with Dominic from getaDoomTune.com - Dmm knows what he is talking about - highly recomended!)

 

Please let me know if I have missed anything:

 

Key to Low End is attaining good air velocity and fuel atomization, right?

 

Move Intake Air Temperature sensor to After my Process West TMIC -

this will give more accurate temp indication for safer tuning.

 

Stick with "Small Cams" for better low end.

Tomey Small PonCam recommendation (252?)

Q: Anything "Lower"? I do not care about top end.

"Big" Cams hurt Low End.

 

Stay with OEM Ports - do NOT increase -

I want maximum air Velocity for better air/fuel mixture at the Bottom.

Smoothing ok.

 

Consider reducing my ID 1300 Injectors size down to ID1000, if possible -

smaller injectors take longer to inject fuel resulting in better atomization and low end.

 

Bore is not good to increase - its already too big.

Stroke can be increased Slightly 79->81 but I'll need an appropriate Crankshaft...

Will help Low end if a lower cost 81mm Crank can be found - any suggestions?

 

Compression can be increased from 8.5 to ~8.8, maybe 9.1 (?)

no more - will cost top end on Cal91 but better response at the Low End

(I am Okay with that.)

 

Q: What are the best Pistons to accomplish this with?

 

D25 Heads ok.

 

Engine noise (which I had - mine sounded like a diesel engine) results from looseness of tolerances;

Depending on the type of forged components, maintain best possible tolerances for

Taper - 1/2-3/4 thou Max, no more i.e. taper-less. No bevel.

Deviation from Roundness - 1/10 Thou max

 

Q: which are the best forged components (brand/materials) in order to have lowest noise? Which to avoid?

some use material that expand more requiring "looser" tolerances - more noise -

so I am looking for those that expand less, right?

Any compromise/penalty on wear, etc?

 

Springs, etc., - OEM or stronger/weaker? (to benefit the low end.)

 

Also,

I am using a IPT Torque Converter set to slightly Higher Stall Speed ~150-200rpm higher than OEM.

It feels Okay but sometimes throws a P0741 TCU code while on cruise control at 3,000rpm while going uphill -

something about the TC not disengaging, etc... I am considering reducing the stall speed to OEM and/or

changing the Requested Torque map (for Higher Torque to increase the ATF line pressure.)

Would you happened to suggest any other remedies?

 

Thank you again for all your time and help and thanks in advance for

any additional recommendations you may want to add.

 

Oh yes, one more thing, I can consider biting the bullet and switching to a "Twin Scroll" 7163...

I think this will make a biggest difference at spool and the expense of ~40hp on top -

I can live with that...

Edited by KGB
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Two things kill rods. Very high BMEP (which makes for high torque) at low revs makes for high bending forces. Too high a redline means overly high acceleration, which tears the rod apart. I guess with the 5EAT you are pushing the former.

What rods were you using in the last build, and how did they fail?

 

 

Sent from some electronic device.

Edited by fahr_side
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Pistons go for Cosworth since they are a hybrid and allow for better clearances. High torque go for turbo tuff rods. People have had luck with Manley and their offset wrist pin pistons but they are still a high clearance 2618 piston designed to be rebuilt every once in a while.
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