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New Short Block Time...


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So, my engine has been using a lot of oil for a long time now, but it's been getting worse. Twice last week I got a big cloud of blue smoke right after startup.

 

I need to do a compression test and probably pull the downpipe off the turbo to confirm, but I'm pretty sure I'll need a short block.

 

So, there's a built block for sale locally. Fresh EJ257 case halves, STi crank, 99.75mm CP pistons, Carrillo Pro SA connecting rods and ACL race bearings. It's being built right now and the owner has offered it to me for $2500. It's probably overkill for my power goals, but that's ok, right?

 

My clutch (newish OEM) was barely holding, so I might as well do that while the engine is out. Thinking about a CM 300 with the mixed reviews I'm hearing on the 350.

 

So, trying to get a handle on what this is going to cost me...

 

Short block - $2500

Clutch/SMFW - $1000

Heads refresh - $300

Head studs - $200

Head gasket - $50

Timing kit - $250

-----------------------

$4300

 

Oil pump? - $130

KB pickup? - $170

-----------------------

$4600

 

What am I missing? Opinions?

 

 

p.s. Fun times. :spin:

 

 

*EDIT*

For my own reference...

 

Engine replaced at 94427 miles. CM FX300, BNR HTA68, oil pump, water pump and timing set new at the same time. Heads also serviced.

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Are you SURE it's rings/valve seals as the issue? Noise on cold start? Detonation or deep engine knocking? I would definitely pull your turbo and check the seals closely on it before resigning yourself to it being internal. I had the same thing (sometimes puff of blue smoke) and it was turbo seals on both ends.

 

I would check that carefully first-sideplay and see if oil in IC. Other thing is make sure PCV is not stuck as this will definitely cause a lot of oil usage. I had THAT damn problem too and it was stuck shut. Cleaned it up and changed the turbo and all of my oil and smoke issues went away. I did flush the IC with some naptha to remove all of the oil that was left over. Also flushed BPV as it had a bit inside of it too.

 

If that's all OK, then I'm sorry for you my friend. That sucks.

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No I'm not sure, here's what I know...

 

It was using a quart every 600 miles, I need to pay attention again to see if that's gotten worse.

 

Engine sounds fine. PCV is new. Power seems fine. Logged Cyl. Roughness for two pulls was zero across the board, but my DAM (IAM) is all over the place, and was .375 for those pulls. It's been stable at 1.0 for the last day or so, but it had been jumping up and down.

 

My wife was having electrical problems so I swapped batteries with her the other week. While I had the weak battery in my car, and it was barely turning the engine over it sounded like there was no compression in one cylinder, i.e. it spun faster past that cylinder.

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I tend to think it's a combination of turbo and PCV. Could be engine, but check those thoroughly first.

 

Also, did you reflash your tune after changing batteries?

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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The tune issue should only apply to real time maps. If you are using an AP that's possible, but if you are opensource I don't think that any kind of ECU reset will have any effect AFAIK.

 

Nor would flashing a new tune reduce oil loss...

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Genuinely curious... Where does this suggestion come from?

 

DAM (IAM) bouncing all over the place could have been a glitch from the battery change. It only takes a spark or bump while changing the battery. Reflash can help to stabilize it again.

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Your engine is toast. So is your turbo. And probably your transmission, too. ;)

 

You'll need STi heads for that new short-block, because you'll find a stage 3 motor is more fun than the stage 2 you were aiming for.

 

The 6MT tranny is a required upgrade with a new shortblock, or a full whiteline/cusco suspension upgrade.

 

Now for some useful advice, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html . If you are going to do the KB pickup, get the pan & windage tray (if cost is an option, get at least the pan). Look into the infamous oil line kit. Add a new waterpump. If the motor is still being built, be sure its balanced well (get data from machine shop). If the CP pistons are forged, you'll going to use oil, though not quite at the rate you are today. Add an upgraded fuel pump (DW65?) and injectors (you don't need 1000's but a slight increase is nice). Did you consider an intercooler upgrade (don't remember what you are using)?

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If you are going to do the KB pickup, get the pan & windage tray (if cost is an option, get at least the pan).

Windage tray is cheap, it's that pan that's a pretty penny.

Look into the infamous oil line kit. Add a new waterpump.
Already installed. Water pump included with timing kit.
If the motor is still being built, be sure its balanced well (get data from machine shop). If the CP pistons are forged, you'll going to use oil, though not quite at the rate you are today.
Good to know, I'll see if I can get some info.
Add an upgraded fuel pump (DW65?) and injectors (you don't need 1000's but a slight increase is nice). Did you consider an intercooler upgrade (don't remember what you are using)?
DW65c, DW 850cc Sidefeeds, and AVO TMIC already installed. Maybe I should switch to topfeeds while I'm at it?
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Genuinely curious... Where does this suggestion come from?

 

The tune issue should only apply to real time maps. If you are using an AP that's possible, but if you are opensource I don't think that any kind of ECU reset will have any effect AFAIK.

 

Nor would flashing a new tune reduce oil loss...

 

Everytime I fully take the electrical system down to parade rest (battery-out/all residual power gone), I check my tune (review the parameters and make any needed changes in OpenSource or reflash it with AP).

 

Like BMB said, it will likely have no effect on oil consumption.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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