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Bought me a 3.0R (Lots of Custom Goodies, Flared, EVO X Calipers etc...)


Dead Mr.

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Oh ya.. lol. Mine resides in Seattle and I think is currently going under a motor swap.

 

This time of the year I'm usually in the MR2 unless I'm feeling lazy or its so hot party mode doesn't cut it (t-tops off) and I want AC.

 

lil update... Took the Alcons off to fix a warp in the rotor so the stock brakes are back on... I'll be ordering the e-brake shoes and rotors to do the STi 2pc rears with my EVO X calipers.

 

Going to wrap my fake wood trim soon too its driving me nuts. I got some ideas... :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Love the mix and match WRX! I can respect the MTB-ing I too am a biker the work week can be stressfull but ont eh weekends when im tearing along a XC trail it all fades to black.

 

I might love my GT more than my LGT at this stage in life lol VF52? Nah Yeti? YES

 

That art is nice, I cant draw a lick or do any thing art related but I do enjoy Japanese lore and folk tales/history along with that style animation.

Edited by GEE-OTTO
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  • 3 weeks later...
Yeah this winter I will take on most of these projects. I have a ez30 header and intake manifold as spares now for taking jigs so I can fab the new parts on the bench and not in the car to save downtime and wrist strain. I need to get her ready for winter so I’ll be doing new wheel bearings, roll centers, and new front CVs since mine feel worn (car has 93k on it). I need to order a rear dust shields so I can bolt them to the bearings i pull off to mod them for the STi rotors and EVO X calipers I have so I can complete my rear brake upgrade. Only other part I plan for which I will probably do next year is a ez36 block. Need to redo me interior trim and get rid of that fake wood grain shit.. that and my custom trailer for hauling bikes and crap but that’s not a legacy mod persay lol.
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  • 5 months later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well hello there fellerz. I know it’s been quite some time since I have been here and even really touched my Lego aside from general maintenance, but those times are over. Lego is getting a little TLC in the Brakes, HP, and Style depts. Stage one was the brakes. Few weeks ago I gave my old boss the drawing for a custom hat to make EVO X rotors fit a Subaru 93-11 all models. I ordered up some calipers and painted them pretty redness and I took some step by steps of what’s required to modify the Stock knuckle to make them fit.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2023_zpsd7imuznz.jpg

First off let’s get some facts out of the way. STi rocks a Brembo 4 piston caliper with a 326x30mm vented rotor. Stock rotor weight is around 22.5lbs per rotor. STi Brembo’s piston sizing is 46mm and 40mm and uses a 10010 pad shape. EVO X rocks a 350x32mm rotor and stock weight is around 25.3lbs for the non 2pc GSR rotor. The EVO X Caliper:

Same Pad as STi

Same Piston Sizing

Same Brake Line Bango Size

EVO X Calipers can be gotten all day long for 350-450 shipped for a pair on ebay which is considerably less then STi calipers typically so this is a pretty reasonably priced BBK and upgrade over the STI with the superior rotors.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2032_zps7wtbti3j.jpg

Now the Girodisc Rotor I designed is a 2pc Designed off their standard hardware and uses their EVO Casting. This Rotor is directional vane and weight in at 19lbs ea. So in closing this is a larger, lighter, more cooling efficient rotor that uses a caliper with identical specs as STi other then the ability to run this larger rotor. No bias issues, no custom parts, just treat them like STi.

There is however some modification to the knuckles that needs to be done to run them. It can be done pretty easy in about 30 mins a side. The STi rocks a 12mm bolt to hold its calipers. The EVO X uses a m14x1.75 bolt so you have to bore out the knuckle. No downside going back to stock as long as you just drill ant tap your stock calipers for the m14 bolt.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2024_zps7hg5pouh.jpg

The lower hole is in perfect placement for the caliper but upper needs a little work because it is not aligned.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2025_zpsji5acgmk.jpg

If you cut the knuckle to notch it so the new caliper can be fitted your good to go. You can leave it like this it will still work when going back to the stock caliper because the calipers are both centered on the lower hole. You can see the alignment of the pads on the rotor ring are perfect.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2027_zps8l8ymzbz.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2026_zpshz0ehz48.jpg

If you are paranoid about not having a closed loop on that upper hole (even though the force on the caliper are not pushing on it to make it an issue) you can go one better and take the piece you cut off it and set it against the bolts threads and weld it to the knuckle. I standard wire feed MIG will work and even though its cast I never have issue welding to it.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2028_zpsnyhs7ktk.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2029_zps8shbfxyi.jpg

Once you clean up the welds bam your done. You can see installed it looks pretty much same as STi (except its bigger… lol) and here you can see it attached to my stock brake lines. I have SS in there now but I wanted you to see it working with the stock to show that custom lines are not necessary.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2033_zpsyqbcvgyh.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2031_zpsupcxjmxz.jpg

So there’s that. If some of you noticed there were washers spacing the caliper because I did not have a way to safely dial the offset needed so I used the spacers to get that and can now add it to my hats CAD drawing so the next rotors I make will not need them. I am planning on having more made. These will use the standard Girodisc EVO X Rotor ring so replacements are always available and the hats will be in their database now so replacements can be acquired from them. I will be ordered 10 sets of hats to be made if there is interested for the rotors.

My plan is to offer the complete pair of rotors, the drill to bore the hubs, instructions, and a drill and tip to modify your stock calipers if you want a “back to stock” option. PM for cost. Standard EVO X Girodisc Rotors are 800.00 for the pair so these with the extra bits so please keep this in mind when inquiring on price but even then you can be into this entire BBK for under $1500.00 and it’s a bigger better kit then the STi route for the front. It’s not for everyone but for the select few its baller. Nuff said lol.

Also.. I did the rears. I used standard 1pc STi rear Rotors with slightly modified thick WRX E-Brake Shoes and EVO 8 Calipers. This was a lot of work which required permanent modification to the rear dust shields, caliper brackets and pressurizing the calipers to hold onto the rotors while I welded the brackets to the stock caliper mounts. Not something I would recommend most so just get STi calipers and the conversion adapters or STi dust shields and keep it bolt on.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2034_zpswnjhbhk3.jpg

And that’s it. Took me 2 days (not including designing the rotor and painting the calipers) but the Lego is got some sexy stoppers on it.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2035_zpszqsx8i3s.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/3.0r%2036_zpsckhhafbo.jpg

I'll take some nice pics after I wash the car... :lol:

 

Again, I’m not going to push my conversion rotors too much till I get the hats finished but if you are interested in getting on the list shoot me a pm and I give you the deets.

 

On the next installment we increase power by increasing engine. Can you say E..Z..3…..6? lol

Edited by Dead Mr.
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey yall. So with the brakes done I did a shake down last couple weeks and the car has been working great.Did an Auto X in the lego and it did surprisingly well given its on wide, but all-season tires. During that time I finished the engine I was working on for a friend and last week it left my shop freeing up time and space for me to do the next phase of Lego modifications. Power time!

 

So a little over a month ago I promised the EZ30 in my Lego to a buddy in return for body and paint work on some of my other cars. This freed up the money I was saving for that to pick up a new heart for the Lego. Ended up with an EZ36 from a 2013 Legacy with only 22k on it.So this weekend I jacked up the Lego and got started.

 

Everything came out pretty easy (for the most part)

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsc3r46z0l.jpg

 

With the EZ30 out I could compare the 2 engines and though they are similar, they are very different.The 36 has a 3 chain drive whereas the 30 as only 2 chains. Looking at the harnesses my initial idea of it being a pretty easy swap soon floated away, but it looks like both engines share all the same components so my buddy its getting me the wiring diagrams so I can verify if I can make a hybrid harness to fit the Lego.

 

I pushed on with good faith I can get this swap to work so I cleaned and painted the longblock a gunmetal grey color. The next day I pulled a head off to check the cylinder bore and it looks cherry but I just wanted to be sure.While I had the engine apart I Painted the Timing and Valve covers. I also order a bulk of those purple countersunk fender washers and then went to the hardware store and got a stainless assortment of bolts I needed to swap the timing and valve covers with them. I guess we will see if the anodizing lasts with the heat but for now the engine looks great.

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsk4mtgube.jpg

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zps9ilvlzm1.jpg

 

Next it was time to work on the performance mods. I figure while I’m waiting for the wiring diagrams before I decided to drop the 36 in I could start the fab on my Header, Exhaust, Intake Manifold, and Intake since these parts will work on either the 30 or the 36. I ordered some stainless tight bend 2.25” pipe and some 50mm billet motorcycle velocity stacks. I first made a small jig to set my limits for the manifold and locate the throttle body. I moved the throttle body back about 2” and angled it a little flatter over the stock manifold design to get more volume.

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpso1qpjxhr.jpg

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpshqmlrdxv.jpg

 

Next I cut the pipes to roughly start the fab. I cut 6 pieces of strait pipe all to same length and then notched them at the bottom. Once I crushed them with the vice and hammer to match the port shape they were ready to be the first start.

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsnbrmrnzm.jpg

 

Next I looked at how I wanted the runners to look.I wanted them all to be the same length and at the same angle so equalize them and hopefully increase efficiency and power. I made a quick mockup of how each runner will look.

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsoqjn0vph.jpg

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsvftsd2v4.jpg

 

This is not going to be an ITB manifold I see no point the stock throttle body is not only drive-by-wire but 3” in diameter plenty big for the power this car will make. I will be encasing the pipes inside a large sheet metal surge tank with a 3/8” Lexan cover so you can see the badassery. LOLI will also be relocating the Battery to the trunk, sealing off the holes in the engine bay behind the headlights and making a custom dual 3” intake that will locate a filter behind each headlight, and then merge just before the throttle body with a 4” section of strait pipe where I have the MAF located. I also ordered a batch of steel ¼” NPT weld in bungs so I can make vacuum line ports wherever needed.

 

For the header and exhaust I started with a full 2.5” stainless cat-back exhaust that’s actually for the newer 2010 Legos but I suspected that even though the body is different they would be pretty close underneath and I was right only a slight modification here and there and it fit like a glove.

 

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsrz4mq4bw.jpg

 

The exhaust came with mufflers but I’m going to reuse the strait pipe ti tip muffler deletes I have been using. The cat-back has a good size resonator in it and the header I am making also has a 2 smaller resonators after each collector so we will see how loud it is but I doubt it will be much louder than it was before. For the header I bought some 350z stuff but while I was looking at modifying the collectors to work with my car I came to the conclusion that cheap eBay header I bought was just too shitty to use so I contacted raptor tuning in Australia who already make a proven collectors and ordered up a set. The collectors only go up to my first cats so I will be making a custom Y-pipe to finish off my exhaust without cats and O2 foolers. So next I will be making a jig off my stock header so I can locate the Raptor pieces and then make my Y-pipe continuation as a full 1 piece unit with a standard 3 bolt flange at the cat-back connection to avoid exhaust leaks

 

I will have more pics this week of progress I’m hoping to have a fair amount of prep to the manifold and header done while I wait for my collectors and my flanges for the manifold to get cut.Once I have the harness info I need I can modify the harness and go ahead with installing the EZ36 into the Lego. I have some modifications to the interior as well to do. Lastly, I also balled out on a bunch of dress-up goodies to pretty the engine bay so it looks as good as the outside… lol I have a few more other things I will be doing but I’ll post more pics as progress is made.

 

Johann

Edited by Dead Mr.
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I have looked into the logistics of doing a manual conversion and I have it pretty well figured out but I'm not sure if I want to convert my car. I have thought about it a lot while driving in it and there are times when I wish my car was a stick. Twisty roads and auto cross etc but with the flappy paddle 5-speed it probably isn't any slower.. however, the times when I am thankful it is an auto. Traffic, after work, on dates... Its way more beneficial that it is an auto. If my tranny blows I will convert, but to spend the money to buy the components I need to do it (especially when I have an MR2 that is a manual) I find it hard to justify. I bet it would increase the value of my car thought. A 3.6L Lego 5mt with EXO x Brembos, flared, and fully loaded... mmmmm sounds good on paper haha.
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Got me some parts today in the male but I'm still waiting for some info before I can reassemble my long block and install it.

 

If any of you know where I can find:

 

the torque sequence for the heads

The timing points to reinstall the timing assy

Wiring disgram for the engine harness of both the ez30r and ez36d

 

I would be greatly in your debt. My contact that said he would get me all this stuff in a couple days (which was a week ago) is a flake...

 

Kinda dead in the water till my flanges for my intake manifold and this info get to me...

 

I'll post some pics of the goodies later though

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Got me some parts today in the male but I'm still waiting for some info before I can reassemble my long block and install it.

 

If any of you know where I can find:

 

the torque sequence for the heads

The timing points to reinstall the timing assy

Wiring disgram for the engine harness of both the ez30r and ez36d

 

I would be greatly in your debt. My contact that said he would get me all this stuff in a couple days (which was a week ago) is a flake...

 

Kinda dead in the water till my flanges for my intake manifold and this info get to me...

 

I'll post some pics of the goodies later though

 

These are the FSMs that we have available on the site. Could be helpful.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4487789&postcount=359

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