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Double Din Install


crazychristopheo

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I have a question about installing a double din in my legacy.

 

I have not taken apart my radio so I don't know anything about what resides behind my stock HU

 

I know metra makes a dash kit, but I have heard and seen on this board that there is a single circuit board behind the HU.

 

Can a wiring harness solve this problem ?

 

Can someone shed some light on how difficult it is to install a new HU ?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

 

I don't want to install the HU in the cubby hole since in the near future im installing the performance gauge pack.

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You need to search. This has been discussed for almost 5 years on here. Over and over and over again.

 

If you don't want to put it in the cubby, then YES, the Highline kit is almost your only alternative (some have placed a head unit in the glove box and used the same wiring as the AVO kit). But I'm not sure Highline is still making their kit.

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Zmarko - What about using the JDM HVAC controls? They are independent of the headunit, and look like they'd fit in the opening on the USDM dash with a little work. You would have to do some custom work to the bezel, but nothing crazy.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Zmarko - What about using the JDM HVAC controls? They are independent of the headunit, and look like they'd fit in the opening on the USDM dash with a little work. You would have to do some custom work to the bezel, but nothing crazy.

It won't work. I'm telling you, anything you guys find, people have thought of, discussed on here extensively, tried, and given up on years ago (unless you find a new product). And unless you're an electrical wizard and great at making custom pieces, doing a dual din kit on your own is going to be more than you bargained for. :lol:

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Speaking from line out converter experience, they just don't work...

 

I started originally with a vanilla converter like the one linked and didn't have very good luck. I stepped up to an MTX Re-Q, which worked well enough and I loved it for awhile however recently I blew my second sub. The first sub I had was used and assumed it was tired, I bought a brand new subwoofer, as well as an brand new amp for different reasons and this new woofer died as well.

 

Line out converters combined with the less than stellar stock HU means your amp gets an awful quality signal. An amplified noisy signal at high levels just means you're going to destroy hardware. I learned the hard way.

 

Either go the whole way and get a deck or a high end system like CleanSweep, otherwise leave the radio alone.

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Avoid the line output converter idea if you value sound quality. It may work for bass and notes in the lower ranges but sound terrible with midrange and above. The JL cleansweep (if properly installed) will work for most people. then you could stick with the stock HU and amp the whole system. For simplicity it worked quite well for me . Eventually I just went with an aftermarket in the cubby. Nothing like a nice clean signal .
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czardestructo and peteyjr are both right. I've also tried a line out converter (one from well-respected expert David Navone) and it still sounded poor.

 

I have a RF 360.2, and while I like the detailed adjustability of the frequencies, I'll likely switch to Kenwood's Car Portal and eliminate use of the factory H/U. http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/CarPortal%E2%84%A2/

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He meant keeping the stock headunit but elimnating it as the power source. Jl cleansweep, RF 3sixty.2, alpine and others all take speaker level outputs from the radio and convert them (thru processing) to low level RCA outputs suitable for amps and powering your system
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I have an LOC and it works fine for me but i do only use it for bass and i dont keep the sub amp on all the time as i have it kick so hard i get headaches after 5 mins of listening. And ive fallen alseep ontop of speakers at clubs.
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Speaking from line out converter experience, they just don't work...

 

I started originally with a vanilla converter like the one linked and didn't have very good luck. I stepped up to an MTX Re-Q, which worked well enough and I loved it for awhile however recently I blew my second sub. The first sub I had was used and assumed it was tired, I bought a brand new subwoofer, as well as an brand new amp for different reasons and this new woofer died as well.

 

Line out converters combined with the less than stellar stock HU means your amp gets an awful quality signal. An amplified noisy signal at high levels just means you're going to destroy hardware. I learned the hard way.

 

Either go the whole way and get a deck or a high end system like CleanSweep, otherwise leave the radio alone.

 

I'm going to have to retract my MTX Re-Q hate. Upon dismantling my subwoofer I found out that I over powered it, had absolutely nothing to do with the signal quality.

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czardestructo and peteyjr are both right. I've also tried a line out converter (one from well-respected expert David Navone) and it still sounded poor.

 

I have a RF 360.2, and while I like the detailed adjustability of the frequencies, I'll likely switch to Kenwood's Car Portal and eliminate use of the factory H/U. http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/CarPortal%E2%84%A2/

 

I am actually about 98% done making my bezel for the Car Portal control screen. Got the nav and ipod pieces to go with it too. You know, I asked on this site a few months ago if anyone had tried this and nobody seemed to know what it was or cared at all.

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wow but one question why didnt someone come up with this previously ?

 

haha

 

why is it black and not polished aluminum or faux wood ? just because it is JDM spec ?

 

But I am definitely interested. I will shoot you a pm in the near future. I won't have any time to install such an item for I am on the move right now between duty stations.

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