Stuck rotors - bolt size to help remove them

Hi all,

 

When I replaced my front rotors, they were VERY stuck on. Despite the use of PB blaster and a hammer, we could not get them off.

 

We ended up reading that the 2 small threaded holes in the rotors are to help you get them off. Basically, you screw in a bolt until it separates the rotor from the mount.

 

Does anyone know what size this bolt is? I'm about to do my rear brakes and would like to pick one up!

Never mind - found it on here:

 

M8x1.25 bolts

 

(8mm)

 

Seriously - if anyone replaces rotors - these were SOOO helpful.

Use the bolts from the radiator hold downs

OMG this thread just saved my ass with a track day tomorrow morning and my rotors completely frozen to the hub from a winter of crap roads not to mention a daily 3 hr. commute the entire month of Feb. shooting at the Olympics. Don't know what they spray on their roads up there but its gnarly whatever it is.

 

And Rao's trick using the radiator hold down bolts? Genius....

I wouldn't use the radiator bolts, I've had the rotors be so stuck on that we've snapped the bolts going in... Then you have to buy 2 sets of bolts...

 

-mike

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2906/grbanghead.gif

 

Of course it would be better to get your hands on some M8 x 1.25 Grade 10.9 bolts and use those. However, if you don't realize that there are TWO threaded holes and that you should be applying pressure to EACH hole in an EVEN manner to pull the rotor off then you really shouldn't be working on your brakes. If you feel the need to bust out a breaker bar to lean on the M8 bolt because the rotor is frozen then you rally shouldn't be working on your brakes.

 

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2906/grbanghead.gif

If you feel the need to bust out a breaker bar to lean on the M8 bolt because the rotor is frozen then you rally shouldn't be working on your brakes. http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2906/grbanghead.gif

 

My impact hammer would be fine right?

Only if it is 3/4" drive

Rao,

 

I've always liked the recommendation of Mike from "Roundel"'s tech talk: if they are frozen on, hit them with a sledge hammer until the entire rotor either falls off or breaks in two

 

Good times, good times.

I haven't ever seen this posted here before, but this technique works well for legacys too:

 

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html

 

I used it to remove stuck rotors when the threaded hole in the rotors didn't work.

Just sheared and bent my radiator bolts trying to get my rotors off...I was using a 3/8" drive ratchet. Stupid northeast roads and weather.

Also if these are rear rotors, you have to loosen up the parking brake adjusters otherwise they will keep you from removing the rear rotors even with bolts. I nearly broke my hand back in the day cause I was so pissed and slammed my hand down cause the parking brake pad were stuck in a well formed in the drum. (no the parking brake wasn't engaged).

 

Mike

I was working on the fronts but nice to know about the rear rotors. Although, I only use the parking brake when parking so unless it built up a ridge of debris, I don't think I would have worn the drum enough to cause a well.

I was working on the fronts but nice to know about the rear rotors. Although, I only use the parking brake when parking so unless it built up a ridge of debris, I don't think I would have worn the drum enough to cause a well.

 

Same here, it builds up from rust and crud in our area

 

Also we are about 20 min from the Holland Tunnel if you wanted us to help you break it free!

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1(2971)| T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Thanks for the offer but I'm going to give this another try. I'm familiar with you guys, you did my uppipe install. I'll be back for a control arm bushing and ALK install when I scrounge up the funds.

Thanks for the offer but I'm going to give this another try. I'm familiar with you guys, you did my uppipe install. I'll be back for a control arm bushing and ALK install when I scrounge up the funds.

 

Ah ha! Cool Cool.

 

Try a big deadblow hammer!

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1(2971)| T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

fyi, try this, it works on the legacy too (I use it all the time)

 

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html

Got some class 8.8 (couldn't find anybody who sold 10.9) 8x1.25 bolts and managed to get one rotor off but sheared them as well on the other .

 

 

fyi, try this, it works on the legacy too (I use it all the time)

 

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html

 

That's what I ended up doing using some grade 8 bolts.

http://reviewshardware.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Blacksmith-Hammer.jpg

We destroy those bolts every time we have to use them on a rotor. Best bet is buy enough to finish the car. There is no winning that game.

 

-Jake

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

http://reviewshardware.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Blacksmith-Hammer.jpg

 

Ha! I was using a 5 pound sledge until I started putting dimples on the rotor. I was trying to keep the rotors reusable so I stopped that fast.

Serious question - does this happen THAT often for you guys? I've had to spend a few minutes hammering on my rotors before - on my 06 SI, with almost 100k on it in PA winters, it took about 60 seconds with a regular hammer - but never anything substantial.

 

I'm doing my legacy's rotors in a few days and now I've got two questions:

 

1. Soak the backsides in PB blaster to loosen, right?

 

2. Can I apply a little brake grease to the insides of the rotors to help avoid future corrosion?

 

Joe

PB Blaster may help, but they can get pretty tight so it may not, ymmv

 

I've tried anti-seize and brake grease on the back of the rotors, neither has worked for me. Doesn't PA use sand? NY dumps salt on the roads so there's no saving our cars.

Reviving this thread. It's 11:30 and i've spent almost an hour on the pass. side front rotor. I stopped using the radiator hold down bolts when I put the first one in and before it had even made it to the hub the threads had stripped off the bottom! It was threading in fine, so I'm not sure if I cross-threaded it or what, but now I have a loose radiator till I replace that bolt.

 

After reading the links, I'm blown this is actually that much of a BFD....I can see how some people would spend eons working on this with a hammer.

 

...for those interested, this is a 3.5 year old legacy with 68k miles on it. It's got 3 winters on it, and this rotor at least is ridiculous. I also had to use a small floor jack on my 17mm caliper bracket bolts to get them to break loose - that's after soaking in PB blaster and slamming the rachet with a hammer.

Boy is my face red. Decided to hell with it and grabbed my full size sledge. Whacked it good all around the edges and saw it change angle. A few more whacks for good measure and it fell right off. This was a full 12 pound sledge with a ~28-30" handle.

 

When in doubt, BFH. And when really in doubt, bigger BFH.