Replaced front wheel bearing and CV axle on my 2000 Legacy (B12)

Let me start by saying that I've never really done any major work on my car so this was a pretty big job for me. But with the proper tools and procedure, I think anyone can do the work. In fact, I was so confident that I took on replacing the rear subframe on my car a few weeks after this work (link to this post later). Anyway, I really should have posted this weeks ago when the work was fresh in my mind but better late than never. Let me know if you have any corrections or questions.

Tools required:

12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 3/4" sockets and wrenches

32mm socket (for axle nut) - rent from autozone

short wooden dowel (~1" diameter) - for tapping out CV

breaker bar (1/2" drive) - for freeing the axle nut

flat head screwdriver

short handle sledge hammer (3lb)

ball joint separator tool - rent from advanced auto (better than the autozone tool)

torque wrench - rent from autozone

Procedure (work in progress):

Preliminary:

1-Put some penetrating fluid on the axle nut, strut bolts, brake caliper bracket bolts, tie rod and ball joint bolts the night before

Axle:

2-Un-notch the axle nut washer with a screwdriver and a hammer

3-Remove the axle nut with 32mm socket and breaker bar

4-Tap axle with wood & hammer to loosen from hub until it starts to move

Wheel:

5-Jack up the car and put on jack stands - BE CAREFUL

6-Remove wheel

Brakes:

7-Remove two bolts (14mm) on brakes and hang from strut using a coat hanger or zip ties

8-Remove bolt (12mm) that holds on brake lines

9-Remove the ABS line bolt (12mm)

10-Remove caliper bracket bolt (17mm) - might need wrench to get to bolt & use a hammer to break free

11-Slide pads off and mark which one was inside and outside

12-Take rotor off

13-Remove ABS sensor (12mm) and pay attention to the way its mounted around the strut

Tie rod/ball joint:

14-Remove cotter pin

15-Remove 3/4" castle nut

16-Use tie-rod puller tool to remove ball joint from knuckle (Don't mess with ball joint pinch bolt)

17-Repeat steps 14-16 for ball joint

Struts:

OPTIONAL: If you are pressing out the bearing yourself and can leave the strut attached to the knuckle then skip the next step and unbolt the strut tower from inside the engine bay (three 10mm bolts). This will preserve your alignment. I took my knuckle to a shop so this wasn't an option.

17-Mark strut camber bolt with etching tool and then remove bolts (3/4")

CV shaft pin:

19-Remove CV shaft pin with hammer and long pin punch

A link to the service manual procedure can be found here.

Pictures from the work can be seen here.