Clutch release lever free play

My question, is there supposed to be any free play in the release lever or is it supposed to be like I describe below?

 

So my new clutch (WRX style Bully stage 4 PP with a stage 2 disc pressing against a Streetlite FW) is slipping a bit. It only happens once it gets hot, after about 5 WOT runs starting with clutch fully engaged and 2krpm or after much slipping in rush hours traffic.

I spoke to Frank at Ottawa clutch and he sat in my car and played with the clutch. He has an STi so he has an idea of how it should feel. His first comment was there is no free play in the peddle and suggested that I adjust it.

So I came home and adjusted it and made sure the slave cylinder rod was not pressing into the release lever without a bit of play. But what I did notice is that there is absolutely no free play in the release lever. I popped the slave cylinder off and put a 10" adjustable wrench on the end of the lever and I could not make it move. Frank's earlier comment was if there is some pressure on the lever and the bearing is pressing into the pressure plate then I'm not completely engaged and could be losing some of the clamping force of the pressure plate on the disk.

This is the bearing type.

And the layout.

I popped the boot up where the lever comes through the housing and looked inside. The lever forks are pressed against the bear as opposed to floating between the bearing and the tabs that wrap around the lever forks. Where the lever comes through the housing it is pressed hard against the engine side of the opening.

All that I can say, is that I had to adjust my clutch so that it was pushing out as far as it could go, to disengage the clutch. Then after it broke in I had to adjust it back partially.

 

So I had the exact opposite problem it sounds like you are having, although my clutch still works perfect.

I know what you mean. That was like the first week of driving for me. The clutch was so tight that sometimes getting it in gear was difficult if not moving.

If you get a chance would you be able to have a look at your release lever to see if you have any clearance on the slave cylinder side?

I'm thinking of removing some material to make the opening larger to allow more travel for the lever so it's not tight against the case.

Mine started with the engagement really low, but it worked without adjustments. If it was any lower I probably would have adjusted it like LBGT said. During break-in the engagement lifted and now it feels fine.

 

I did a track day with the car at full throttle for 15-minute periods with no slipping, but I did very little shifting - it was a small track and I often did the whole thing in 2nd.

I know what you mean. That was like the first week of driving for me. The clutch was so tight that sometimes getting it in gear was difficult if not moving.

If you get a chance would you be able to have a look at your release lever to see if you have any clearance on the slave cylinder side?

I'm thinking of removing some material to make the opening larger to allow more travel for the lever so it's not tight against the case.

 

The slave cylinder on my car is tight to the lever. I cannot move it with my hand.

 

If you had to adjust it like I did when you first put it in, maybe you have to adjust it back now? I did.

I was more interested in where the lever passes through the bell housing. If I remove my slave cylinder completely the lever is pressed hard against the opening. It does not move, wiggle, not even with a wrench on it.

It's as if the release bearing is to thick and that pushes the lever forks to the rear in turn pushing the lever top forwards against the case.

I did make a clutch rod adjustment so that the slave cylinder piston can move a little bit when the pedal is released.

I'm thinking that I need to remove a bit of metal to make the hole in the housing bigger so the lever can move forward a bit more just to ensure it is not pressing on the clutch (as if riding the clutch with your foot).

 

I will also change the fluid just to make sure no air in trapped in the system causing engagement when the area gets hot.

 

Thanks for checking.

I was more interested in where the lever passes through the bell housing. If I remove my slave cylinder completely the lever is pressed hard against the opening. It does not move, wiggle, not even with a wrench on it.

It's as if the release bearing is to thick and that pushes the lever forks to the rear in turn pushing the lever top forwards against the case.

I did make a clutch rod adjustment so that the slave cylinder piston can move a little bit when the pedal is released.

I'm thinking that I need to remove a bit of metal to make the hole in the housing bigger so the lever can move forward a bit more just to ensure it is not pressing on the clutch (as if riding the clutch with your foot).

 

I will also change the fluid just to make sure no air in trapped in the system causing engagement when the area gets hot.

 

Thanks for checking.

 

I think I get what you are saying.

 

Any chance of a pic, with drawing on it to show your point?

Sure. I'll take the slave and dust boot off tomorrow when I change and bleed the fluid.

And here are the pictures with the slave and dust boot removed.

You can see the lever is pressed against the case. There is still quite a bit of force on it too.

As for the mechanics of it (see the links in my OP), the bearing sits against the PP and the lever forks are against the back of the bearing. The lever pivots on the round pivot post which causes the lever to push against the case.

So the things that I can think of that would cause this are:

 

1. '06 FW & PP combo are thicker than the stock OBXT dual-mass setup
   
2. The bearing is thicker than stock
   
3. The fork is bent
   
4. The pivot post is to tall
   
5. The housing opening is to small
   

I leaning towards number 1 or 2 or a bit of both.

Picture are:

First (IMG_2443) is lever from the top, the left of pic is towards the front of the car.

Second (IMG_2451) is the lever from the left side, the left of pic is towards the front of the car.

Third (IMG_2447) is the pivot post, behind the lever, left of pic is towards the rear of the car.

The bearing is thicker than stock

 

IIRC I used a new OEM bearing, the one designed for my car in the first place. Not sure if it was different then 06+ WRX one or not.

 

Are you using a different bearing?

I'm using the one Bully provided with my kit. It's an NTN part number FCR62-69-1/2E picture linked in the first post and cross references to the OEM number.

I had an OEM one (30502AA120) but returned it as Bully provide one. I didn't even think to compare them.

I found this picture for dimensions.

I used a new OEM one, and I got a feeling that may be your problem. I just went out and felt the arm, and I actually could move it a slight amount, it felt solid, but I could hear a slight bit of movement. I did not take the dust boot off, but I would guess it is not touching the case due to the fact that it moved a bit.

 

Can you find dimensions for an OEM one? Sucks, as you may have to pull it apart again. If the disc or PP is damaged I would talk to Frank about it, as providing the wrong part is not good!

I suspect if the dust boot was removed you might have a bit more play as it goes between the lever and housing.

If the OEM number cross refs to the NTN number then I wouldn't suspect the bearing thickness. But maybe I can stop by the dealer and measure one just to be sure.

I stopped by Bully today and we discussed the situation. The only thing they could think of that might cause this problem would be the ACT Streetlite FW. They said it's possible the thickness of the FW from the crank mounting surface to the pressure plate mounting surface is greater than the OEM spec. If this was the case the entire clutch package would be thicker.

They offered to check and machine the FW if it was thicker than OEM and reface the clutch disk if it is glazed.

The downside is I have to take the car apart :-(

That seems odd to me.

 

The bearing is the same as OEM? Do you have the OEM one on hand to compare?

The bearing seems like a probable cause to me, too.

It would be interesting to compare dimensions with a Subaru part.

This is a crap problem to deal with since you have to pull the clutch to fix it. FWIW my ACT clutch also came with an OEM release bearing. As LBGT discribed, I also have a little bit of play between the slave cylinder and the release fork.

I don't suppose anyone has an OEM bearing for a turbo engine kicking around that they could measure the thickness of? I have 19.5mm with the NTN bearing.

As LBGT described, I also have a little bit of play between the slave cylinder and the release fork.

Thanks, but do you have free play between the lever and the transmission opening that it passes through?

I will have to comfirm this when I get home...side to side play correct (passenger to driver's side play)?

Why don't you contact Rick or the guy's at Fred Beans, he should be able to come up with a OEM bearing dim's.

What do you think, I'm superman?!

 

I have a bearing at home I can measure for you. Are you looking for the radial play?

What do you think, I'm superman?!

 

I have a bearing at home I can measure for you. Are you looking for the radial play?

 

 

In my book...your pretty damn close. After all you must at least have one on the shelf.

 

I think they are looking for the overall lenght from the bearing face to where the fork contacts the... whatever that is called that the bearing is pressed onto. I guess it's a sleeve ?

Well I'm about 300 miles away from the stock room...

 

However, I have my old TOB and a new one from the ACT kit on my personal shelf in the basement. I'll be happy to bring my calipers home and check this for you guys.

 

PS: Thanks for the kinds words Max Capacity.

I will have to comfirm this when I get home...side to side play correct (passenger to driver's side play)?

No, the play in the direction of motion.

According to the manual regarding clutch adjustment you should be able to push the release lever toward the slave cylinder and this should cause the fluid level in the reservoir to go up. Then when you let it go it should return to it's normal resting position. So I'm, interested in that amount of travel (free play).

As a clutch and bearing wears this travel will become less over time.

Thanks for checking for me.

What do you think, I'm superman?!

 

I have a bearing at home I can measure for you. Are you looking for the radial play?

That would be great! I'm looking for the thickness from the clutch surface to the fork surface. As in this picture, it's noted as 19.5mm.