Who has the most miles on their LGT, and how are they holding up? - Vol-2

262622 today:p

262622 today:p

 

I want see a picture!

well i'm past that now, but I'll take a pic when i get in my car.

If you drove in reverse then you could get a picture of it.

 

 

05 wagon gt 5 speed with 79k only issue is the oil control valve sensor and have to replace the wheel bearing besides that so far so good

@ 156k and in the shop for a refresh after I saw some bubbles in the coolant overflow tank. Head gasket failure confirmed, cyl 1/3.

 

Doing the HG, valve job, clutch (the original 156k unit had some meat left on it, but why not do it now) timing belt, plugs, valve cover etc gaskets, oil pan seal, and whatever other related gaskets. Replacing coolant temp sensor, PCV valve & MAF, and some other odds & ends that I'm forgetting.

 

Previously did injector service, IM gaskets, both o2 sensors, alternator, radiator, t-stat, AC condenser, 1 wheel bearing and a CV boot in the 18 months since I bought it @ 130k.

 

Should be good for a while after this. Now watch as I spin a bearing in 3k miles

264k report. Finally brought the car in to have what I thought was an oil pan seal fixed. Wrong.

 

Head gaskets leaking. I'm also coming up on a timing belt. Considering the mileage....it might be time to off load this car and get into an outback.

 

I'm waiting for the quote and then I'll make my decision

264k report. Finally brought the car in to have what I thought was an oil pan seal fixed. Wrong.

 

Head gaskets leaking. I'm also coming up on a timing belt. Considering the mileage....it might be time to off load this car and get into an outback.

 

I'm waiting for the quote and then I'll make my decision

 

You mean you don't wanna buy your car twice, like the rest of us?

Lol. No. I don't think it makes sense considering how much I drive

This car is either a 2nd or 3rg gen (I have difficulties telling them apart tbh), but I literally just scrolled past this post before seeing this thread. lol

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/freeriderjake/Screenshot_2014-08-21-14-41-02_zps5gleyfji.png

Lol. No. I don't think it makes sense considering how much I drive

 

 

Well you just did suspension work a short while ago. How's the rest of the car ?

 

How much do you want for a car payment ?

 

How much will it cost to do the HG's and what ever else you need to make is last another 100,000 miles for that cost ?

 

Is that cheaper then a different car ?

c-lo, FWIW the HG job and head refresh will make it feel like new again. Glad I ponied up instead of getting a new WRX or something, which would've cost more in the long run (less car, too).

Well you just did suspension work a short while ago. How's the rest of the car ?

 

How much do you want for a car payment ?

 

How much will it cost to do the HG's and what ever else you need to make it last another 100,000 miles for that cost ?

 

Is that cheaper then a different car ?

 

Just FYI - avg payment in the US is ~$335 for a new OB -

 

And weighing the costs -- $2400ish for an HG job at dealership is, well, about 7mos of payments at that number. A little over 6 months and you've got "paid for" car again -- Honestly, it keeps making more sense to buy the car twice at its current value than buy a new one -

If the bottom end is still good, and it sounds like it is, then just redo the head gaskets, cam seals and engine mains. Then drive it another 260K.

Well you just did suspension work a short while ago. How's the rest of the car ?

 

How much do you want for a car payment ?

 

How much will it cost to do the HG's and what ever else you need to make is last another 100,000 miles for that cost ?

 

Is that cheaper then a different car ?

Same logic I'm using right now.

As of 101,000 miles, I have replaced the following:

 

- Timing belt and water pump

- Both rear wheel hub/bearing assemblies

- Two cracked windshields

 

Not too shabby. I wish the the hubs had held out longer, but there is no sign of oil leakage or burnoff anywhere, so I'll take it. God bless Rotella T6.

i hear you guys. I'm waiting for the estimate from my mechanic. I'm not 100% sure yet what I'm going to do. but here's what I'm factoring in:

 

1. time down without the car while it's being fixed. more than likely a 2 day job. cost of rental now has to be included.

2. I drive 60+ miles a day. Yes the rest of the car is good.

3. I won't be buying a new car again. Used. couple years old. 2011-2013 outback with low miles.

4. swear to me!!!!!!

5. yeah.....I want to keep it. I'm just not sure it makes sense anymore.

83,XXX miles on my 05 lgt manual. Just took out the banjo filter and it looked horrible, gladi did it when i did. Still gotta do the UP and tune.

 

So with the burning oil part, I use synthetic and try and check it at least once every 3-4 days. Is there a different way to check the oil other than the dipstick. It twist when you put it back in and i feel like I can't get an accurate reading on how much oil is in there.

Check before starting the car. Pull the dip stick wipe. Leave the stick backed out of the tube 6" or so out of the tube for a couple min then check. With the angle the stick tube goes into the pan first pull drags oil up with it an it's going into the pan at a severe angle.

83,XXX miles on my 05 lgt manual. Just took out the banjo filter and it looked horrible, gladi did it when i did. Still gotta do the UP and tune.

 

So with the burning oil part, I use synthetic and try and check it at least once every 3-4 days. Is there a different way to check the oil other than the dipstick. It twist when you put it back in and i feel like I can't get an accurate reading on how much oil is in there.

 

Easiest way to check oil level. Is to pull your dipstick out about a 1" & loosen your oil fill cap. Come back in a hour or so.

 

Check both sides of the dipstick & use the lowest indicated oil level of the two sides.

 

Why? because the dipstick tube is below oil level. As you drive, the oil slashes around & works it's way up the dipstick tube. Like holding water in a straw with your finger sealing only the top hole. The water/oil is not coming out the straw/tube until you break the seal at the top.

Check before starting the car. Pull the dip stick wipe. Leave the stick backed out of the tube 6" or so out of the tube for a couple min then check. With the angle the stick tube goes into the pan first pull drags oil up with it an it's going into the pan at a severe angle.

 

While you are right, it's important to note that the pan level relies on having enough oil to get up into the dip tube - If you closely examine the tube and stick, you'll see that the tip really only extends from the tube into the pan about an inch, more or less. So while being low on oil, enough so that the stick reads low, you've still got most of a pan full -

I always check my oil with a warm motor.

 

Pull into gas station, pop the hood, take off the oil cap, wipe dipstick and reinsert, pump gas, check oil, wipe and continue checking until satisfied that reading is accurate.

Main thing with this suggestion is to get less smear and have a clean level indication. Low should read low... Low is not good, no reading really bad.

I don't know why so many people have trouble checking the oil on these cars. My stick reads like a champ. Just checked hair above the full when hot after 20 min cool down. Good in my book.

 

As for durability of the wagon. The car is well above stock power levels. Hair under 105k. Timing gear/water pump and belt changed at 100k. Oil with t6 and wix filter every 2500-3k. Plugs every 20k with oem spec Ngk iridiums. Always have 2 spare coil packs, Tranny and difs every 10k just switched to motul 300. Feels fine no noises. Brakes every year, coolant every 10k (it's cheap).

 

Carnage- 2 cv axles, one rear wheel bearing, one throw out bearing. Changed nearly every bushing. Also put in a Mishimoto radiator. Transmission has the ts3 sleeve and heavy duty clutch. When clutch goes out a six speed will go in.

 

Have lots of spares in the garage. Spare turbo (12k mile vf48), fresh cv, and spare rear bearing on the shelf. Have no fear and am kind of excited for the inevitable build.

Checking in....

 

05 LGT wagon 5mt 195,000 miles as of 1/5/15. Water/timing replaced at 175,000 just before I bought it. Original turbo, stage 2 Cobb, catless everything. Had it dumped after I bought it and registered 257hp and 274ft-lbs. Ran a 14.flat at the drag strip this last summer..

 

Currently I run a 50/50 blend of Shell T6/ Amsoil 0w30 with a OEM RX8 oil filter. For this winters set up I gathered some OEM wheels and plasti-dipped them bronze and they are holding up well. This spring will bring a new BOV GFB respons.

 

The JDM double din has been eluding me this far but that would be my final peice to making my car just the way i would like it.