P0011 and P0021 code with engine problem

So, I'm new to the forum and a new owner of a used 06 Legacy GT. The car has run fine for the 2 months I have owned it. Today, driving in traffic the CEL and blinking cruise light came on. There were no odd engine noises, but I noticed a definite lack of power. Engine code reader says something regarding cam timing (p0011 and p0021.) I read a few posts and did the easy things. Changed oil and removed and cleaned the oil valves. No improvement. The car idles fine, no misses, no strange noises, just not the usual power of a GT. The turbo was replaced by Subaru about 6000 miles ago due to a faulty waste gate (previous owner.). I'm new to LGT's and just looking for help or suggestions. I am trying to avoid a trip to the dealer for diagnostics. Thanks!

Do not start the engine until you pull the down pipe and check to turbo for shaft play.

 

Most likely the banjo filter is full of crap and blocking the turbo for getting oil.

Not when you see how much work it is the pull the intake tube.

I just had both CELs trip on me last week (car is currently garaged).

 

I pulled the DP and my turbo has shaft play. Seriously check your turbo for any shaft play.

 

As far as I can gather from these codes and a few days of research is that P0011 and P0021 trip when the cams can not advance into higher timings. The cams in this engine are oil driven, if they can not advance, it means that the oil pressure is likely low. Low oil pressure becomes a very bad problem very quickly in these cars. I would highly suggest you do not drive it and do not put it into boost until a dealership or knowledgeable shop can take a look at it.

 

A lot of the P0011 and P0022 codes reported have been individuals, as in one bank or the other. Since BOTH are reading, I have to doubt that it is the OVCs or the cam gears. It has to be something before that. Which, as far as I can tell is bad pump, clogged pickup, clogged and malfunctioning filter and/or dirty oil.

 

Oh yeah, and this is what my baby looks like now

 

http://i.imgur.com/Een5wLY.jpg

For an oil pressure gauge, I think you'd have to install a "sandwich" plate between the oil filter and the oil cooler, or something like that. Then you'd run lines from that to an oil pressure sensor.

 

If your codes are somehow not the result of a clogged turbo oil feed line, consider the following. There are banjo bolts with filters feeding the AVCS on both sides of your motor. On the driver's side, it's mostly blocked by the back of the timing cover. I think it was covertrussian that has some info on getting that filter out. Also, you may have clogged or sticky OCVs, which are fed by the AVCS lines. It's not too difficult to pull those out. Spray them down with WD-40, and then power cycle them by hot-wiring them to an old 12 V AC to DC power adapter to make sure they move properly. Be careful though if this is your daily driver. I know at least one member mention his OCV crumbled apart when it was removed. I think the part is expensive... maybe about $100? Anyway, have a backup plan.

For an oil pressure gauge, I think you'd have to install a "sandwich" plate between the oil filter and the oil cooler, or something like that. Then you'd run lines from that to an oil pressure sensor.

 

If your codes are somehow not the result of a clogged turbo oil feed line, consider the following. There are banjo bolts with filters feeding the AVCS on both sides of your motor. On the driver's side, it's mostly blocked by the back of the timing cover. I think it was covertrussian that has some info on getting that filter out. Also, you may have clogged or sticky OCVs, which are fed by the AVCS lines. It's not too difficult to pull those out. Spray them down with WD-40, and then power cycle them by hot-wiring them to an old 12 V AC to DC power adapter to make sure they move properly. Be careful though if this is your daily driver. I know at least one member mention his OCV crumbled apart when it was removed. I think the part is expensive... maybe about $100? Anyway, have a backup plan.

 

I have a oil pressure gauge, no idea where it is routed, it came with the car. It is my understanding that any oil pressure gauge is going to be basically useless to determine what is going on. I noticed it acting a bit odd, but it's always a bit weird.

 

The banjo bolts for the AVCS are right at the front of the block, they connect with the OVCs. They are 17mm bolts, very easy to see on the driver side, you will need to remove the air pipe to get to the passenger side.

 

The OVC (10921AA020) are about $80 each on Amazon, $100-120 from your dealer.

When both codes pop up at the same time, it's an indication that there was a lack of oil pressure going to both OCV and AVCS. As Mootsfox mention, it could be clogged banjo bolts, clogged oil lines, cracked oil pan pickup pipe, or possible oil pump going out. This why most of us have oil pressure gauges to monitor if there is a drop in pressure. The sooner you catch it, the sooner you can save your motor/turbo.

 

What are your pressure readings at these intervals?

Cold idle:

Cold @ 3,500 RPM:

 

Warm idle:

Warm @ 3,500 RPM:

 

Another way to test the OCVs is to take them out and with a small screwdriver, compress the piston all the way and release. It should spring back freely, and shouldn't stick in either direction, if it doesn't then they should be replaced. You can also do the mechanical test as silen7guardian mention to verify it's functionality. If they do stick or don't move freely within side the housing, it's wise just to replace them. More than likely they are going to stick or seize again.