6MT Master Swap Thread

Delta, sell me your spec.b STS and pick up an STi one.

I will, if I can find one. I got it for a song.

It's funny, I have followed this thread back when Hammer Down and NSFW had separate threads, before I even had an account here, and always wondered why it was so difficult to find the SpecB axles, besides the limited production of the car. Now it makes more sense.

 

Does anyone know the differences between the SpecB and STi versions of the Cobb STS? Trying to determine if one or the other is necessary with my 05STi 6MT that is going in this coming weekend. Same with stainless steel clutch lines, does anyone know if I need a SpecB specific part? I have tried to search these forums and spent a good amount of time cross-referencing on opposedforces.com, but I haven't been able to find anything conclusive for either question. Any help is greatly appreciated. And if I have missed something in my searching, feel free to let me know that I should have looked harder.

I had all the Cobb shifter stuff in my 5 speed as well, loved it.

 

I actually just removed my Kartboy (Cobb) front and rear shifter bushings from the 6 speed. The noise in the first few gears into the cabin is pretty bad in a 6 speed.

If I didnt drive my car every day and about 25k a year I probably would have left them. My car is already loud with the Cobb exhaust.

 

I just purchased and installed stock STI shifter bushings from a brand new STI that someone removed on NASIOC.

 

I then installed a Cobb double adjustable STS. I love how short you can get the throw and still adjust the stick height.

 

This combo is perfect IMHO. The Cobb Shifter stiffens everything up (no rubber in the stick) and the STI shifter bushings keep thing somewhat stiff yet quiet.

 

If you decide to get the Cobb Shifter for the 6 speed, you order the Double adjustable for the SPEC B.

 

The only difference in the STI vs Spec B Cobb shifters is how the boot attaches.

 

The way the legacy and Spec B shifter boot is you need the Spec B Cobb shifter

 

Here is a portion of Ian armstrongs email to me:

 

"Greg,

 

The only difference between the 215315 STI shifter and the 224316 Spec B shifter is the top rod. On the STI, the shift boot holder screws in from underneath, so our happy shaft has provisions for this. The Spec B shift boot holder screws in from the side. Therefore, the shaft has a thicker portion where this screws attach to. Therefore, you'll just need to determine how your shift boot holder attaches, and order the appropriate one. If you have any other questions, please let me know. "

 

Here is a video of what a newer STI transmission sounds like with the Cobb/Kartboy bushings

 

 

OK, so I received my Spec.B lockout cable today that I ordered to replace the broken cable from the 2010 transmission. I have a sneaking suspicion that the cables between the STi and the Spec.B 6MT are different based on the amount of exposed cable; the new Spec.B one looks longer. Also, it didn't look like the Spec.B Cobb STS had a chance at fitting with the STi cable. It could all be in the adjuster, I don't know yet. I'll know more maybe next weekend when I have time to change it out:

http://i.imgur.com/xerFbzQ.jpg?1

Should I be purchasing new axle seals for my installer? Any other cheap seals that should be replaced during install or while the transmission is out of the car?

I'm using the originals, and I have no problems. My transmission is a low-mileage 2010. I don't know at what age/mileage it would be a good idea to change them, though.

OK, so I received my Spec.B lockout cable today that I ordered to replace the broken cable from the 2010 transmission. I have a sneaking suspicion that the cables between the STi and the Spec.B 6MT are different based on the amount of exposed cable; the new Spec.B one looks longer. Also, it didn't look like the Spec.B Cobb STS had a chance at fitting with the STi cable. It could all be in the adjuster, I don't know yet. I'll know more maybe next weekend when I have time to change it out:

 

http://i.imgur.com/xerFbzQ.jpg?1

i did the spec b shift linkage with an sti lockout cable. had the same problem you had where the cable seemed a little short. but you could always call the dealership and see if the spec b has a different part number than the sti. if so, it might be different lengths. i was able to make it work, just took me a while.

They are different part numbers.

Spec.B - 35060AG010

04-06 STi - 35060FE000

07+ STi - 35060FG000

I believe that Spec.B cable is slightly longer. I have an STi cable that came with my 05 trans so i will see if i experience the same problem.

For my own edumacation...

I posted a link some pages back which will send you to a calculator for this. Too lazy to dig it up on Tapatalk, though.

Delta, sell me your spec.b STS and pick up an STi one.

Spec b and sti sts part numbers have both superseeded from original part number to the same part number currently.

So cables must be close enough to work either way or they started using a cable in between lengths.

For my own edumacation, can someone explain the real world difference here...this is referring to the difference between the '07 spec.b trans and 08/09 trans:

 

"The 07 tranny is geared 3.454 with the 1:1.1 center differential, and the 08+ has a final drivehttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png of 3.90"

 

Does that result in any real changes in terms of gearing, RPMs at certain speeds, etc?

Take your 3:454 final drive 07 trans, and multiply 3.454 by 1.1 (center diff ratio multiplier), and you end up with a 3.90 rear diff

Whatever the final drive gearing is in the 08+ trans, the center diff would be 1:1 into a 3:90 rear diff.

Tires are the biggest determinant, all else equal.

Last Friday I ordered parts for R180 rear diff. swap. Used 05 STi R180 (under 60k), new 07-09 Spec.B axles, axle seals, diff. cover & front diff. mount.

 

Mike

Picked up parts for swap.

Copy/paste from other thread;

What all is necessary to swap the two diffs?

What I swapped, R180 rear diff that matched transmission , 07-09 Spec.B rear axles, rear diff cover & front diff cross member. R160 yoke & rear mounting studs from your old diff.

What's different between LGT old rear diff part & R180 (04 STi) swapped part.

07-09 Spec.B Front diff cross member;

Steel Vs. AL & has a more room between the top of cross member & bottom of the diff. to keep rear diff knocking to a min. under hard acceleration.

07-09 Spec.B rear axles;

Axle input shaft to rear diff is .050 bigger O.D. & .38 longer.

07-09 Spec.B Rear diff cover;

Measuring from the bottom of the diff cover to rear mounting studs. The Spec.B measures .12 longer them the 04 STi cover. So if you use the STi cover, the rear of the diff would set .12 higher in rear chassis. Drain plus are different too.

R160 yoke & rear mounting studs;

To have matching bolt pattern to drive shaft. Rear mounting studs are a good 1" longer then the STi's studs.

Mike

New Driveline is all in. The LGT bracket for the clutch return spring looks like it works just fine with the 11 STI 6-speed. I bought the STI bracket also, but didn't see a reason to use it unless I'm missing something. Just need to finish wiring up the DCCD controller and put the interior back together.

The downpipe bracket fit great, although the threads in my rebuilt trans were stripped in one of the mounting holes. Just wondering, has anyone sheared those tiny bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear diff due to too much powerrr?

This is the spring PN: 30546AA060

The bracket PN I thought I saw somewhere in this thread, but it is eluding me.

And are both the spring and the bracket add-on items for a swap, or would they be there in stock form?

A bracket was there stock on my 05 LGT. I bought the STI spring and f it its perfectly with the bracket. Straight, looks like the right amount of tension on the spring.

Yesterday, I drove my car for the first time after installing a new engine and an 04 STI swap. I was able to drive for a few minutes, but then the clutch went to the floor. I limped it back to the shop and bled it again. Drove for a few minutes with the same result. Repeated this a total of 6 times. I bled from the bleeder on the line and also on the slave cylinder. The 10mm bolts on the line are tight.

It seems weird that the bleeder on the slave cylinder is not the highest point on the cylinder. However, I don't think that is my problem. I'm guessing maybe a little piece of something got into the reservoir and is disrupting the o-ring.

I'm going to replace the master cylinder and try to bleed the system again.

Has anyone had this much trouble bleeding the clutch, or thoughts on what the problem might be?

Yesterday, I drove my car for the first time after installing a new engine and an 04 STI swap. I was able to drive for a few minutes, but then the clutch went to the floor. I limped it back to the shop and bled it again. Drove for a few minutes with the same result. Repeated this a total of 6 times. I bled from the bleeder on the line and also on the slave cylinder. The 10mm bolts on the line are tight.

 

It seems weird that the bleeder on the slave cylinder is not the highest point on the cylinder. However, I don't think that is my problem. I'm guessing maybe a little piece of something got into the reservoir and is disrupting the o-ring.

 

I'm going to replace the master cylinder and try to bleed the system again.

 

Has anyone had this much trouble bleeding the clutch, or thoughts on what the problem might be?

The master cylinder is pretty straightforward as far as bleeding. It is a very small system. I can't imagine why it would take more than a couple of times to bleed that system. Is the TOB and clutch fork installed correctly ?

The master cylinder is pretty straightforward as far as bleeding. It is a very small system. I can't imagine why it would take more than a couple of times to bleed that system. Is the TOB and clutch fork installed correctly ?

Clutch fork and TOB are installed correctly. What I don't understand is after bleeding, it feels totally perfect, but that only lasts a few dozen shifts before the pedal falls to the floor, or the engagement point rises by 6 inches, and getting into gear is very difficult.