Should I pounce on this car?

Hey all... second gen Slummer here really sick of his busted up rusty wreck... I've owned my Subaru for about a year and did the timing belt service and exhausted many dollars hunting a misfire. I want turbo but can't afford to get into a wreck that needs work.

 

Car is 2005 LGT sedan 180k with the short throw manual. Its in good cosmetic condition outside with OK 60 to 70 percent fuzion HRI tires (not a fan). Upon start up the idle seemed slow and rough. It also seemed to have valvetrain noise under a load but not boost for the first 5 or so min.The shifter and clutch very difficult to work I drove it for 10 minutes and made maybe 5 successful shifts. Clutch took a ton of effort and I couldn't seem to find the gears. Some reviews say that's normal?

 

It also seemed to lack power off the line. My 2.2 legacy feels like it has more guts. Boost wasn't overwhelming by any means but I didn't push it that hard because I couldn't shift it. I stalled it out a bunch in parking it just right for the dealer. Could the low power rough idle just be an IAC issue?

 

As I said real familiar with 2nd gens know nothing about these.

IMO no I wouldn't not jump on it unless the price is cheap enough where a new short block wouldn't be a problem. fuzion tires are usually the tires you get when you go somewhere and say "cheapest tires in this size" so it's been maintained on a budget. With any high mileage turbo car I would not buy unless it passed a leak down test.

 

Mine shifts easy clutch effort is firm but I have a aftermarket clutch. It's probably long over due for tranny/diff fluid change.

I would not buy unless it passed a leak down test.

 

+1000. I think it is a must especially for this kind of mileage.

Based on your info, I would bet that there are quite a lot of other expensive things wrong too (F&R suspension parts, most likely still on OE struts and shocks, exhaust ready to fail, axle boots, wheel bearings, obviously the turbo, possibly rear sway bar supports partially torn or torn off, etc.) and because you live in the "rust belt" like I do, I would be really skeptical as to the mechanical condition of the rest of it. Exterior paint is not a good indicator of mechanical condition.

 

Unless you can buy it for dirt (and I mean DIRT) cheap and want something to work on, then I would run away fast. It's almost 10 years old now and while they hold their value well if they are in good mechanical and physical shape, obviously this one only looks pretty good.

 

Just my $0.02.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm faced with spending some significant cash around 700 to 1000 on my junky car on tires, tie rod ends, MAF, emergency brake rebuild and repair front end damage before the bumper falls off... just looking for maybe an easier way out with some sugar on top

 

The price on the lgt isn't fantastic at 6500 bucks. The interior has some significant wear on center console and on the upper seat bolster. As far as driving it felt good and solid up to 65 and turning in circles didn't reveal center diff wear. Brakes felt great.

 

What would be dirt cheap?

Then don't by a rust-belt LGT with 150k+ miles on it. Whether it's a 'wreck' or not, things will break and you'll need to fix 'em, simple as that.

 

Well being a second gen guy I don't know what the problems are on this gen car. I can handle repairs... but don't want to jump from frying pan into fire etc

Keep in mind a turbo'd legacy is not cheap to own and service. The higher the mileage the more likely you are to run into expensive problems.

 

If still the original turbo it might be towards the end of it's life. Should it fail you might be dropping $4k into a new motor.

 

I personally wouldn't buy a high mileage car for a primary car, especially if you're on a budget.

Understanding you want a turbo, as I do, sometimes ya just can't afford it! you can easily find a 05+ legacy in good shape for 8-9k. I bought my car with 56km on it and its an 09 for $10k. Wait until you can afford to own a turbo car. Buying and owning are 2 different animals.

Not being a dick but if $6500 then you cannot afford a LGT. Any FI car you need some money on the side to fix/replace things. $6500 is already insanely cheap but with that high mileage expect to be replacing many things right away or shortly there after.

 

Save up another 7-10 grand and you can find some nice ones!

I agree with the above comments. Save the pouncing for another opportunity.

Nobody is being a dick.

 

I would rather know its a bad idea or at least a risky one than getting hosed.

 

Looked at a 6.0 ford Turbodiesel once. Same thing... great if you have the cash to fix the problems up front to make it safe to own on a budget

 

I KNOW what's up with my junk heap...

I got mine for $8900 in good mechanical shape (engine/turbo/drivetrain) at just under 110k.

but have definitely spent close to $2000 in deferred maintenance (and another $1000 in performance bits) since I bought it, doing my own wrenching. (LCA bushings, both axle boots and tans seals, suspension, valve cover gaskets, timing belt/water pump/thermostat, turbo inlet, spark plugs, PS pump seals, endlinks, tires etc).

 

The PS rack is going to go soon and I would much rather be spending that money on sways, but once that is done, the car is pretty bulletproof. Then I just get to sit back and wait for the turbo or motor to grenade...

 

If the engine or drivetrain is suspect, run away- unless you have another $5k lying around.

 

I'm all in at about $12,000 for a solid stage 2 car and I couldn't be happier.

^ including car I am probably at 13-14k. Vf52 with various suspension parts, I don't think I would be able to find a better DD for that price range.