Rumphy's n00b15h build thread

This is going to be kept up more like a journal for my own sake, but feel free to input as I'm sure you would anyway. This is my first journey into the building/customization of a car - I'm a guitar guy first and foremost, but I like to broaden my horizons constantly and my new venture is this Legacy SUS.

 

First off, I drive a '98 Leggy SUS that's in fairly good shape but I'm noticing more things wrong not quite on about it as time goes on.

 

First was a CEL that popped for the knock sensor about 100 miles into me owning the car. Replaced, worked great for about 200 more miles and then went off again. During the 200 miles, I got about 26.5-27.5 mpgs and after it went again its back to about 24.5. I doubt it has actually gone bad again, so I'm going to dig back into it and clean off the terminals and see what happens. NOTE: Buy a friggin magnetic retriever (or "borrow" one from work) so I don't drop the bolt into the engine space again and have to use bubble gum to get it out.

 

Second, as I was having the oil changed(full synth) and radiator flushed (just being anal) it was discovered that the CV axle boots are torn. I haven't noticed any strange sounds when turning or anything so I'm putting that off until I have a bit more fundage.

 

Third, the suspension is going. I'll probably end up loading some KYB's with H&R springs for that. Probably wait a couple weeks on that, but it will be soon. I was an idiot and bought RalliTEK sways before I really got to check out the struts so those will be going on either tomorrow or Monday - on this, any tips and tricks would be appreciated.

 

Fourth, there's a slight stutter/underpower when coming slowly from a stop. If I jackrabbit punch it, it's fine - plus I get to listen to the boxy growl in stead of purr. I'm putting it down to one of three things: the transmission fluid has gone wonky, probably do a drain and fill and then use no-slip additive; the throttle control maybe has some play on the line; bad grounding (more on that later) - let me know if any of these are even close, I'm pretty much a 1st grader on the subject.

 

Things I want to do after these issues are taken care of (or in between) are pretty limited, as I'm still a noob on what CAN be done. Tomorrow morning I'm tearing off the woodgrain covering on the interior.

 

When I can, I'm going to order a full grounding kit, which hopefully takes care of the slightly- worrying low idle. Sometimes it drops to 3 or 400rpms, and I'm worried she's going to die. Never does, though.

 

The brakes are getting rusty anyway, so I'll probably try to pick up a stock WRX set from part-out(everything) to replace them. In the mean-time, I guess I could try to get at the calipers with a wire-brush and some kind of rust-remover to make them look better. Tips on this are appreciated as well, and if you have a set I can buy even better

 

Otherwise, I want to upgrade the coilpack, maybe put in a CAI and new muffler (mmmmmm, rumble) and have it painted. There's a few scratches along the drivers door and on either bumper, plus I'd really like to go for a solid color paint - don't get me wrong, I like the stock two-tone, but it seems a little "90's drug dealer" and the woodgrain interior doesn't help.

 

Like I said, updates are more for personal use, but I'm sure SOMEONE will enjoy reading them. Input is always appreciated and will be considered.

The OUTSTANDING patina on front rotors/calipers:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b62/joelhike/IMAG0324.jpg

Still very functional, but poor form to keep on such a car, IMO.

 

More lovely patina on the rear struts:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b62/joelhike/IMAG0320.jpg

At least the springs look good?

The midwest gives cars some nasty rust. My brakes look the same, hah...and the caliper bracket bolts are stuck thanks to the rust. Naval jelly will clean that fine patina off your calipers, then hit them with silver or black caliper paint before putting it all back together.

 

Someone might want your woodgrain interior trim. Grab a set of normal black trim and sell it...or just trade.

It's not in great shape.. all the vent covers are melted through and bubbling, everything else is scratched and discolored.

P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit is an overly common issue on older subies. I found that the cheap ebay $20 knock sensor is the way to go. Having that code set will kill performance and mileage.

 

If you are down dirt roads often, you will want to address the CV boots a little sooner. The shafts can be removed and just the boots replaced. Prolonged exposure to dirt/sand/water will fail the joint and cause need for CV shaft replacement. Boots cheap, shafts not-so.

 

The upgraded sway bars will beat the remaining life out of the stock struts. If you are upgrading struts/springs in the near future I wouldn't worry too much about it.

 

Your power on take off and idle issues could be directly related to the knock sensor problem. Check the car for a tune up, throttle cleaning, fuel filter, etc. A transmission service is a great idea.

The whole shafts with boots were only 40 bucks with core refund. By wait, I mean next payday most likely.

 

I was thinking about that with the sways, I'll probably put them on with the struts when I get them in a couple more weeks. They're waiting in my trunk for now.

I got tired of trying to peel off the foam..

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b62/joelhike/IMAG0349.jpg

 

This is all the crap that's come off it. (and my cheap smokes)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b62/joelhike/IMAG0350.jpg

 

Oh yeah, how the crap does the bottom center trim piece come off? I struggled with it for a while but gave up in favor of leaving it in one piece.

open the ashtray, finger it till you find the screws

remove them, pull out the cupholder, two more screws

remove the cupholder assembly

tug gently, it will find its way off

Above the ashtray going up? I saw those but I don't have a stubby screwdriver..

yup, they need to come out got a ratchet set and a #2 phillips?

just the bit and strong finger might do it

Thats how my front calipers use to look also just have to take everything apart and paint it. I also had the torn axle boot and steering rack boots. Dont go with a cheap aftermarket axles either they will cause vibration at idle and under load. You should remove the trim pieces and paint them gloss silver.

Nah, they're probably staying black, unless someone has gray they'll trade me. I'm not too worried about how the car looks, though I'd like to have it painted possibly before I head home in January. That'll require some thrifty saving, though.

 

On a better note, I finally got a bite on the Orange amp I put up for sale, so struts and springs might be getting purchased tonight. Or tomorrow. The point is, I'll have them soon.

Got my springs in the mail today, and the struts got on a truck to be delivered but it looks like the driver ran out of time and went in for the night so I should get those tomorrow. I'm not 100% sure if I want to do these myself yet. I don't remember how much it costs to use the lift at the auto hobby shop on base, and if I can't get it all done in one day I'd have to pull it off the lift and park it as-is. They have all the tools I'll need, plus I'm thinking about getting mounts and boots from the store there. How long should all four take?

You must replace the front mounts. I did the rears too but was told they weren't as critical since they don't pivot like the fronts do. Here's the difference the same setup you're doing made to my car.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/1996-legacy-h-r-springs-photos-before-after-160801.html?t=160801&highlight=H%26R+springs

Got the struts and springs sitting around at a friend's garage, I'm getting the mounts from the auto shop on base and will be using their lift sometime next weekend (hopefully) to get that all set up. If I have the time/willpower I'll put on the sways (22/25mm front/rear RalliTek) the same day, otherwise I might wait until the following weekend. The CV axles are waiting at AutoZone for me, probably have a shop do that one.

 

Next up, brakes whenever I find a suitable donor car. Then an eBay CAI, maybe the coil pack upgrade and it's on to body work. Anyone know a kind of middle of the road (nice balance somewhere between inexpensive and good) paint shop in the SoCal area? I'm scouring Yelp and a couple other reviews sites but nothing really impressive so far.

Struts and springs are in with 80 miles on them. So far so good. I've been lazy and haven't gotten my sways put in yet, even though it's flipping easy.. Bought an RFRB, might consider painting it if I can. Not sure if it'll look good black sandwiched between a black hood and grey bumper. Sadly, the RFRB took cash from my stereo funds, so I'll wait on that. Also, I get paid tomorrow night, so I'll order a full rotar/pad kit for all 4 wheels. Probably clean up the calipers a bit in the process, but I'm really not too worried about them.

 

Next up - intake?

I forgot that I originally came back to this thread for another question..

 

How much difference would new or swapped engine mounts make? I've noticed a lot of play in the engine when I start it (enough to push air out the front - my mom's the one that noticed that, actually) and I'm beginning to suspect that it's throwing my knock sensor out of place due to excessive vibration. I've been reseating it every weekend.

If it's already black you could plastidip the grill, would look boss

Hmm... they sell spray plastidip at normal stores? I'm hesitant to enter Walmart again, but would they have any?

 

fk it, there's a sears like a mile and a half further, I'll just go there.

Hmm... Sounds good. I'm gonna see how it looks black first, though.

Or just buy it from the plastidip guy that made the videos posted in the plastidip thread

motor mounts are always a good idea, just give them a visual check if you're sure that the engine's moving the way you say it is. how many miles?

 

good call on the rfrb grill, definitely try the plasti-dip. if you don't like it, it peels right off.

I'm sitting just below 170k right now. I don't know what color dip would look good with a black and grey car.

 

Also, I can't ship aerosols to an FPO address, and I don't have a land address.

Nice thread! I am going through the same stuff with a similar car but its a wagon.

 

How/why did you buy the swaybar that you did? I am looking at the same mod.

 

A thing you might try with the low idle is cleaning your idle air control valve. If its stuck shut, cant open fully, or faulty altogether, it won't allow air past the closed throttle plate and you will get a super low idle.