2005-2009 which years are best?

Besides the 2007+ Si Drive... Are any of the 4th Gen years better than others? Any of them more reliable than others?

 

I'm in the market to buy a LGT. I figure that something unmolested with lower miles is better. But I'm wondering if anything significant was changed or upgraded over the years?

 

Im most interested in 5eat auto trans.

 

Any thoughts &/or advice would be appreciated.

Thx!!

I figure that something unmolested with lower miles is better.

 

^yep

The 08 and maybe 09 has a transmission shudder when in lock up, issue- torque converter is updated and needs replacement. They also have a 2,3 shift shock- needs TCM update. Depending on the previous owner these items may have been dealt with already, check history. These items are in regard to the 5EAT that you asked about.

I'm sure as you have read they have other issues also...get a spare turbo and a trunk full of wheel bearings

05-06 have catted up pipes which is a pretty simple fix just get on NASIOC and find an STi up for $50-$75 and through that in. 07-09 have the air pump thing that I have no clue about but I know it involves a bit more to remove then the Catted UP. Banjo bolt filters on all years can cause problems. And as travrach said get a spare turbo and wheel bearings.

Thanks guys!

I appreciate the info

 

I'm having a good time learning about subarus. Im real big about doing everything myself. That's a big part of the fun and you really bond with your ride that way.

 

I've been a big fan of Mitsu's for years. Owned several GSX/TSI's and a Evo. last one being over 700awhp. Got married and had kids so that's all gone but it's time to get a fun ride again and I'm really liking what I see in the LGT! I'm excited.

 

Are the injectors or turbos any different over the years?

 

I def need to learn about all the little maintainenc/ reliability mods like banjo bolt filter removals and such. As soon as I find a good one (and I'll drive across multiple state lines if needed), it's getting upgraded. Wideband 02, boost gauge, UpPipe, DownPipe, Turbo, CAI, FMIC, 5eat valve body or transgo kit, trans cooler, and atleast a fuel pump. Don't know about injectors yet since I don't know the sizes yet. And gotta choose a tuning device. Shooting for around 300awhp on the hottest nastiest most humid day.

 

Sorry I'm a little off topic. I'm Just excited. Been a couple years since I've had a ride to build on and I love learning about new awesome cars. If there's two things I'm addicted to when it comes to cars it's AWD+Turbos!

So not to jinx myself but i have an 05 w 90k

And still on the original wheel bearings

Maybe i got a good set, maybe its just due to me not

Driving like im in gymkanna

Just saying id be more worried about the turbo , turbo lines, crappy stock intercooler,banjo bolts, and uneaqual length headers helping to tank cylinder 3,4

And of course take out all cats, id also say learn to drive stick

Prepare your wallet for the carnage that will surely ensue with LGT ownership. Kiss your savings goodbye and earmark most, if not all of your discretionary income for the next couple of years -

 

These cars like to eat turbos, which usually take the shortblocks with them when they go. Get used to me saying #YNANSB, which means You Need A New Shortblock.

 

Instead of finding one that's low miles and unmolested, I wouldn't shy away from something that comes from a member here, and has maybe even had a new shortblock and/or turbo in the last couple of years. You want to find something that's no more than Stage2 (UP, DP and tuned) and has been taken care of, for the most part.

 

07+ are nice with the SI drive, but, unfortunately they've got the Disappointment heads (D-series heads with the air pumps mentioned). As with any car that's 7-10 years old now, you're gonna run into a lot of things that will need replacing, up to, and including the shortblock.

 

The biggest thing that all the cars suffered from, across the generation was a bad tune in stock form. Runs lean in cylinder 4 while on-boost and that's what causes ringlands (and thus, #ynansb) to go kaboom.

Well MrTris, that's good of you to tell me. Thats the kinda stuff I like to know.

I've read about the #4 having issues, ringland failures, and bad factory tunes. It seems to be the case with a lot of the various cars that have this engine (or variations) like wrx and 'xt' cars.

 

So since I don't know all the differences... What the difference between say the engine in a LGT, Forester XT, and WRX? I was under the impression that the LGT & FXT basically had the same motor (detuned & with smaller turbos) as the WRX/STI's. I'm I far off in thinking that?

 

I'm certainly not turned off of buying a car thats already modded. If it had a built block that'd actually be real nice if I knew it was from a reputable shop. what I absolutely don't want it a car that has been messed with and modded by someone who didn't know what they were doing (or cut corners cuase they had the boost bug but no $$ to do it right).

 

I'm prepared to $pend what is needed to upgrade and upkeep parts that are old and worn out, but I would like to expect the stock internals will hold up to 300-320awhp. Expecting so becuase it seems to be the common threshold for other cars with this engine.

 

Note: i maybe new to Subies but I'm not a new tuner. I know hp is relative, and motors can blow with stock power or at 250 yata yata.

I would stay away from built motors. Didn't you just say those days were behind you?

 

Stock internals on a good tune will handle up to 350 just fine, which is about the breaking point for 5MTs, but, since you want the 5EAT, it'll handle more power with no problem.

 

That said, 300 us attainable, but after stage2 and a bigger turbo and bigger injectors, pump, etc.

 

All turbo Subarus 05+ are pretty much the same block, just different variations in combination of upper engine parts-- heads, intake, turbo, TMIC. But for simplicity's sake, just assume all 2.5l turbos make about the same power, they just get there differently.

No I didn't say those day are behind me. I said something to the effect of "that's all gone now" refuring to my modded cars. I meant the cars were gone. I've been left with a wife, house, and two little girls (all whom I love dearly). I've been rolling a mini van, and I need a toy again! Lol! Once you mod you never go back lol.

 

If stock internals can generally handle 300-350 that's fine for now. I just want a solid 300 on the worst days (it's real hot & humid during summers here). Thanks for the great info Tris. I'm in full research mode while I look for a good ride. I appreciate the info and suggestions

Things you must do before signing on one:

 

Prepurchase inspection at a Subaru specialty shop. Hard to find in the south, but, hop into the regional forums and check around. Ol' Boys auto repair don't know shit about no turbocharged high falutin' Seewberew.

 

Compression check and turbo checked for shaft play are non-negotiables!

 

Also, used to live in the south, I can poke fun atchy'all if I wanna.

Get used to me saying #YNANSB, which means You Need A New Shortblock.

^Glad this was finally clarified, I googled that junk and came up with some crazy stuff lol

I personally think 07 is the best year. In regards to a sedan version

-VF46

-Top Feed Injectors

-Fold down back seat

-SI drive

-NO up-pipe cat

-Nicer cluster/interior bits

-No banjo bolt

-I think the smaller foglights and the rear bumper look better with 05-07

Just my opinion though.

I personally think 07 is the best year. In regards to a sedan version

-VF46

-Top Feed Injectors

-Fold down back seat

-SI drive

-NO up-pipe cat

-Nicer cluster/interior bits

-No banjo bolt

-I think the smaller foglights and the rear bumper look better with 05-07

Just my opinion though.

 

07 still had banjo bolts. Believe they all did through 2009 at least. Maybe the 5th gen turbos too?

The best ones have three pedals.

05-07, nothing for 08+.

MrTris speaks hard reality my friend. Sounds like you've been there and done that and haven't missed anything i could possibly say.

 

only thing i can add is +1 on everything he said.

 

i had an 04 Forester XT and decided to go all out. after blowing the original motor due to a bad tune, i got a brand new USD STi bloch and heads, along with the vf39 (oem sti turbo), along with a 6spd, 180 rear diff, DCCD, brembo's, suspension from a JDM sti, 3" turbo back, and later on experimented with an 18G and a 20G Turbo and external wastegate.

 

never had so much fun in my life with a car. aside from the purchase price of the car, i dumped another 20k all in all for my entertainment.

 

so get ready to spend. i refuse to get into another project cause i know its endless. now i just drive an 08 automatic. not even a gt.

I keep reading a lot of horror stories on here about one common theme...unreliability. it makes me wonder...comparatively speaking, how unreliable are legacys? How would their reliability (as a modded daily driver) compare to a turbo VW Golf, or an SRT-4 or dare I say it...an Evo?

yup. Prepare to spend money.

owned my 05 lgt auto since October maybe? Drove it for roughly 500miles. I'm in it 3900.00 already, and still might need a turbo.

 

bought the car with the only apparent issue being the clip needed replaced to the cyl 3 coil pack and timing belt/ components needed changed.

 

I'm an old DSM guy myself, worked on and owned alot of Audi "VW too" and never have I seen a car so expensive to repair.

can't speak for anything but my old DD "now the wifes car. But reliability has been great for me. Only major issues is coolant leak after coolant leak. But just ordered the 7pc ECS hose kit to fix that issue.

 

the car is an 05 Jetta gli, auto, just hit 100k.

upgrades are revvo ecu flash, ko4 upgrade at 18psi, fmic, eBay intake, gfb 50/50 bov, gates blue timing belt, stock injectors and fuel pump, stock top and bottom end, aftermarket rotors with carbon pads, eBay 3" dp, eBay 3" test pipe "cat", custom 3" cat back, eBay n1 nockoff muffler, tein coilovers, plasma coils.

 

most upgrades have been on there since 60k miles, bought car brand new in 04. Changed timing belt and drive belts, spark plugs, coil packs, brakes, driver axle, flushed coolant once, had VW check and add trans fluid "sealed trans" and that's bout it since new. Drives like a top to this day

makes you think... so why are we such loyal subie owners

makes you think... so why are we such loyal subie owners

 

because i still have $12,000 due on my loan lol. i just dont get it. my 2.5i ran great for 3 years, worse it ever needed was a radiator and wheel bearings. if i do have a blown head gasket (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/coolant-leak-level-low-236485p4.html) then i will have wished i wouldve just kept my reliable 2.5i and bought a beat up wrx as a project car

It's the turboness, not the Subaruness that's hurting your reliability. Turbo Subies are gonna be on par with the turbo Golfs and Evos (no comment on an SRT-4). A n/a Subaru is just as dead reliable as any other Japanese make. Turbo Subarus are no more unreliable than other makes' turbo cars in general.

 

And turbo cars are not really run away from unreliable, the statistics are just gonna show that the n/a cars survive longer and better than the turbo cars. The 2.5L EJ is pretty bulletproof if you don't throw forced induction on top of it, but the turbo doesn't automatically ruin the motor either.

 

That said, turbo cars have a lot of complexity and a lot of very fast moving parts that must maintain very tight tolerances in order to work correctly. This creates heat which wears the hard parts. In addition, the increased air pressure over time is harder on some of the softer parts and connection points. On top of that, a turbo is a wear item just like your brakes and your timing belt. The shelf-life on a turbo is probably somewhere between 100,000 and 150,000 miles depending on the turbo and build quality, etc. Unfortunately, most people do not replace them proactively and wait until they fail and the failure has the potential to be catastrophic. If reliability is the most important thing to you and you want to make sure that you are never stranded on the side of the road, you shouldn't be in any turbo car. Honda Accord or Toyota Camry is your bag. If performance is important to you and you are willing to sacrifice a little reliability in the statistics to get a fun car with a ton of upgrade potential, turbo Subie is right up your alley.

 

(I'm not knocking the Accords/Camrys of the world, my wife drives an Accord. But I have a modded LGT. The markets are just different and you need to decide what's important to you.)