shtbxr22 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 So this is my fancy schmancy way to remove or install the crank pulley if you don't have the special crank holder tool. the picture is during install/torquing. just reverse the belt for removal. pretty simple. http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m194/star91281/1023091456.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kw02webe Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 hmm interesting any instructions? tools used? what kind of legacy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 22mm socket w/ breaker bar, any subaru in general, and I thought it would kinda be self explanatory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kw02webe Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 it is but i have an AT and was looking for pointers my perrin pulleys been sitting in the box for months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Hmm, interesting. I should try this with my buddy next time, we tried using an impact gun and failed miserably lol. My Group A pulley has been sitting for over a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 How tight are you getting the alternator belt ? Why not just do it with the car in gear, much easier, and doesn't risk the alternator bearings. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 How tight are you getting the alternator belt ? Why not just do it with the car in gear, much easier, and doesn't risk the alternator bearings. most likely just as tight as a belt installed. the major force is on the belt itself. I've done it countless times with no ill effects. this would be more effective I suppose if you had an auto trans where there is really nothing to keep the engine from turning over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KurtP Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 I didnt have a crank pulley tool. I took two long/wide head screw drivers, one at the 9 oclock and the other at the 3 and wiggled the heads back and forth (twising the drivers in my hands) real gently and walked the pulley right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Why don't you guys just put the car in 5th, pull the ebrake and go at it with a breaker bar and a 22mm socket. If your by your self, disconnect the injectors and bump start that bolt off with a long breaker bar. Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 hmmm good idea. thanks for the tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Why don't you guys just put the car in 5th, pull the ebrake and go at it with a breaker bar and a 22mm socket. If your by your self, disconnect the injectors and bump start that bolt off with a long breaker bar. what if you have an auto trans? What if the previous owner put a bit of loctite on the crank bolt? I've seen the starter come apart using that method. also, how are you going to tighten the bolt again.....with the starter? how do you know much torque? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 I didnt have a crank pulley tool. I took two long/wide head screw drivers, one at the 9 oclock and the other at the 3 and wiggled the heads back and forth (twising the drivers in my hands) real gently and walked the pulley right off. this is just for securing the pulley while breaking loose/torquing the crank bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 what if you have an auto trans? What if the previous owner put a bit of loctite on the crank bolt? I've seen the starter come apart using that method. also, how are you going to tighten the bolt again.....with the starter? how do you know much torque? I guess anythings possible, but I've never heard of a starter coming apart doing this. Its only a quick turn of the key. Place the breaker bar against the frame rail/ ground and bump the key. You don't want to turn it to much as you could loosen the bolt enough to lodge the socket and breaker bar between the bolt and the radiator. You can get the proper torque specs by placing the car in 5th and using the emeregency brake. Proper Toque specs according the to FSM are 130 ft/lbs. Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I hope you're not re-using that belt My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 I guess anythings possible, but I've never heard of a starter coming apart doing this. Its only a quick turn of the key. Place the breaker bar against the frame rail/ ground and bump the key. You don't want to turn it to much as you could loosen the bolt enough to lodge the socket and breaker bar between the bolt and the radiator. You can get the proper torque specs by placing the car in 5th and using the emeregency brake. Proper Toque specs according the to FSM are 130 ft/lbs. I say again.....what if you have an auto trans? put it in 5th gear, and use the park brake?.....right. someone needs to lock this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 I hope you're not re-using that belt no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I say again.....what if you have an auto trans? put it in 5th gear, and use the park brake?.....right. someone needs to lock this thread. Why lock a thread with valuable information? Clearly your not the only one that knows how to remove them. Allow other ideas in order for each individual to make there own decisions on removal. I'm sorry I missed your question about automatics, however I've always found using a screw driver through the torque converter always works extremely well, and theres no chance of damaging your serpentine belts. Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 i'm just frustrated about "why not just put it in 5th gear and use the e-brake" no biggie, i'm just a big baby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 5EAT or 5MT. Take plastic cover off flywheel housing. Stick screw driver into teeth of flywheel. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasterdammit Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Its only a quick turn of the key. Place the breaker bar against the frame rail/ ground and bump the key. You don't want to turn it to much as you could loosen the bolt enough to lodge the socket and breaker bar between the bolt and the radiator. I just did this (I love the internet) & will attest: it works. I pulled the plugs (eliminate compression and the possibility of the car actually starting to run), cut ignition & fuel, and wedged my 24" breaker bar against the right side (passenger) frame rail. I used a small bungie cord to hold it against the rail as there was a little slack, then hit the starter once and was able to spin the bolt out the rest of the way by hand. Expect a loud noise as the bolt breaks free. This worked a LOT better than trying to hold the balancer in place with two extensions and somebody pushing against you as you to break nut free. Thanks to all who went before me and did this. And then posted about it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Here's the easy way, just bump the starter over. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture062.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I used one of these.. borrowed from a friend in, in conjunction with a piece of pipe and a bar. http://www.company23.com/503 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hi. I have a video that shows how to remove the crank pulley. Its easy and fast and requires no special tools. I use the method all the time. It works great! I hope this helps someone out. Thanks for watching! ~shaun Everyone watching, please don't do this. This is horrible for more then one reason. For one you will mar the pulley, which if you don't do it perfectly in the center it will start chewing your belts. Next you might mess up the balancing of the pulley if you damage/flatspot the hills. Last good luck going through the proper torquing steps (where you torque to 34ft-lbs, then torque it to 132.7ft-lbs but making sure the bolt rotated 65*, otherwise your bolt stretched and you need a new one). Lastly, that big if a wrench will cost you as much as a GrimmSpeed crank pulley removal tool which solves the issue for auto guys. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Don't use the pliers method. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Missing from my photo above is a piece of plywood I covered the wrench with so if it came off, the wood would keep it from popping forward and into the AC condenser. You only need to bump the starter, do not try and start the engine, it only takes less then a second to put the key to start. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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