RooTBeeR's Cheapo Slow Poke "Build" Thread

Back Story.

I have a 2005 LGT 5EAT, Bone Stock.

Thanksgiving 2013 I took it out to the desert to play a bit. All was fine and dandy until I went for a top speed run on my way back to camp to park it. Got up to 115mph, noticed it stopped accelerating, and was going to back out a bit. Before I got a chance to, CEL came on. “Cylinder 1 Misfire”. Coasted down for about 1/2 mile, stopped. As it came to idle, heard a knock. Turned it off and back on, CEL was gone, ran fine even, just had a loud knock. Ended up driving it about 160miles with the knock to get it home.

 

http://youtu.be/APQzZvUBPu4

 

 

 

Tore it apart and found out that #2 has a bit less piston than it was installed with.

#2 Looks like it was part of my oil consumption issue.

#2 and #4 Journals and intake cam are scored.

#1 and #3 had some scoring on the exhaust cam and journals too. Just didn’t bother with pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Build

 

Short Block = $1,340

Used 14,000 mile OEM 2013 STI 257 Short Block.

The previous owner made one dyno run up to 470whp 420wtq @21psi on E85. He ran it on 19psi making 420whp 380wtq to prevent damage. He’s only selling it to help fund a closed deck block and make more power.

 

Heads = $1,060

New D25 Bare Castings.

I was originally going to get new “B” heads and 9:1 pistons because this is my daily driver and I spend a lot of time sitting at traffic signals(stop and go) and don’t get to boost much and wanted a little more off idle/boost power. Then I decided that it’s best for me to leave the short block as is, because it’s much cheaper than going through the whole bottom end and taking it to a machine shop and then buying pistons on top of all of that. So I decided to go with “D” heads that will give me an 8.7:1 CR and that’s close enough for me and is far more budget friendly. Higher than it was, and yet still low enough not to give me any “on boost” problems with the Cali Cat Piss 91.

 

Cams = $610

NEW OEM 2005 LGT Cams

 

Valves(Intake(8) & Exhaust(8)) = $241

New OEM 2008 WRX

 

Valve Springs(16) = $93

New OEM 2008 WRX

 

Valve Spring Retainers(16) = $35

New OEM 2008 WRX

 

Valve Spring Seats(16) = $11

New OEM 2008 WRX

 

Valve Collets(32) = $comes in the gasket kit

New OEM 2008 WRX

 

AVCS Oil Control Valves(2) = $175

 

Timing Belt Kit w/ Water Pump = $188

 

Exhaust Cam Sprocket = $65

 

BMB’s Bullet Proof TIMC Kit = $90

 

TIC FU Cam Bolts = $40

 

Nameless Performance Air Pump Delete Plates = $62

 

Company 23 Cam/Crank pulley tools = $242

 

ARP Head Stud Kit = $220

 

Red Line Assembly Lube = $9

 

08 WRX Engine Gasket Kit = $256

 

CV Joint Banding Tool(for BulletProof TMIC kit) = $20

 

Oil Cooler = $203

 

Oil Cooler Connector = $30

 

10mm OEM Oil Pump = $134

 

OEM Spark Plugs = $30

 

Torque Converter Circlip = $3

 

Agency Power Light Weight Crank Pulley = $127

 

Killer B Motorsport Oil Pan, Pick Up Tube, Baffle = $600

 

Blox Magnetic Oil Drain Plug = $10

 

OEM Valve Buckets(16) = $312

 

OEM Oil Cooler Hose Elbows(3) = $26

 

JMP Rebuilt Turbo = $$$

Billet compressor wheel + Inconel turbine wheel and shaft

 

Venair Silicon Hose Kits(3) = $350

 

 

 

Current Total $6,664(est.)

 

 

Dyno Tune = $700

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adding to this list as I go.

Red parts I still need.

 

 

 

 

First part I bought since it's the first part I broke while removing the engine.

 

 

8/3

Picked up the short block

Need to clean off the clutch dust and carbon on pistons.

Got the heads.

 

 

9/20/2014

Got My TIC FU Cam Bolts.

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/21/zaqyjuqe.jpg

 

 

 

11/14/2014 Update

 

(1) Exhaust Cam Gear Pulley.

(2) AVCS Oil Control Valves.

(8) Intake Valves.

(8) Exhaust Valves.

(16) Valve Springs.

(16) Valve Spring Seats.

(16) Valve Spring Retainers.

(32) Valve Valve Collets.

 

 

12/23

Got Head studs and lube.

 

 

12/24

Valve spring compressor and

Turkeylord Blue T fitting replacement.

 

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/24/41e0fc2a846b853ae6e3182e6b356963.jpg

 

 

 

12/29/2014

 

Got my gasket kit from Infamous Performance and Tuning.

Assembly can begin soon.

 

 

 

 

 

1/4/2015

 

Took the old engine off the engine stand.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5027189&postcount=116

 

 

 

 

Got the new shortblock on the stand.

Cleaned all of the clutch material and grime off of the bell housing, and pulled the rear main seal out.

New one is on order.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5027189&postcount=116

 

 

 

 

Fancy nitride coated crank.

ARP head studs installed.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5027189&postcount=116

 

 

 

1/6/2015

 

Got my water pump and timing kit.

 

 

 

 

 

1/7/2015

 

got my CV Boot Banding Tool for my "Bullet Proof TMIC" kit.

 

 

 

 

 

02/06/2015

 

Oil Pump

Oil Cooler

Oil Cooler Tube

Tq Converter Cir-Clip

Spark Plugs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

02/07/2015

 

 

Agency Power Light Weight Crank Pulley

 

 

 

02/20/2015

 

 

Killer B Motorsport Oil Pan, Pick Up Tube, and Baffle

 

 

02/20/2015

 

Blox Magnetic Oil Drain Plug

 

 

 

 

02/21/2015

 

Infamous Performance & Tuning Filtered Turbo Oil Supply Line Kit

 

 

 

 

03/01/2015

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5079878&postcount=138

 

Installed:

 

Valve Seals

Valves

Valve Spring Seats

Valve Springs

Valve Spring Retainers

Valve Locks

 

on the RH Head.

 

 

 

03/07/2015

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5085344&postcount=146

 

 

Installed Nameless Air Pump Delete Kit (block off plates)

 

 

Installed:

 

Valve Seals

Valves

Valve Spring Seats

Valve Springs

Valve Spring Retainers

Valve Locks

 

on the LH Head.

 

Measured lash on both heads.

 

 

 

03/21/2015

 

Ordered a cam sensor, 16 new buckets, 3 oil cooler elbow hoses,

All 3 Venair hose sets from IP&T

 

 

 

 

 

03/27/2015

 

Got valve buckets, gasket maker, oil cooler elbow hoses, and some oil.

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/06/af90dd944de757234e3f099621e37f3c.jpg

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5114662&postcount=161

Assembled the heads.

 

Turned the short block into a long block.

 

 

 

 

03/08/2013

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5117594&postcount=162

 

 

Put the plugs in that I regapped

 

put on the killer b motorsports windage tray and oil pick up tube

 

put on the killer b motorsport oil pan.

 

put on the water pump

 

Moved over the last of the bolts and sensors for the old block to the new one.

 

 

 

04/12/2015

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5121011&postcount=197

 

installed oil cooler, wrong part number

ordered correct coolant bypass pipe for wrong oil cooler to work

threw the oil filter on for to keep teh parts clean

installed oil pump

installed water pump

bought copper crush washers

bought oil supply plug

bought flexplate

bought turbo oil return hose

installed water pipe

installed Oil control valves

installed heater coolant pipe

Installed timing pulleys

Torqued oil pressure sensor

 

 

 

04/13/2015

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5122665&postcount=198

 

I swapped out the two valve buckets that were out of spec for two that were in spec.

I put sealant on the oil control valves and the valve covers and bolted everything back together.

Install the cam seals

Put the timing covers on

Put the cam sprockets on

Used the TIC FU can bolts

Changed all the hose clamps over to worm gear

Put the timing belt on and all of the pulleys

Time the engine and spun it over a few times

Put the knock sensor on it

Put the turbo coolant tank return and breather pipes on

04/15/2015

 

 

I ran out of parts. So not much progress today. Other parts are on order, other parts need to be ordered.

 

Talked to JMP about my turbo.

Installed my IP&T ACVS+Turbo filtered oil lines kit(sort of).

Got my oil galley plug today.

Installed it.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/2e5e09f040610921a3db95cc7941c700.jpg

 

 

 

04/17/2015

 

Got my copper crush washers yesterday.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/18/009781db009c30737f578130f91ac982.jpg

 

 

 

04/18/2015

 

Sent my VF40 off to JMP to work his magic on it.

 

 

 

04/20/2015

 

Got my new

flex plate "motor plate"

Oil cooler crossover tube

Turbo oil drain tube

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/e2a5f51574da6acb52bd0bd8aad67c8f.jpg

 

 

 

 

4/29/2015

 

 

Got my JMP rebuilt turbo back w/ a new Inconel Turbine wheel and shaft, and Billet Compressor wheel.

Also got TMIC Studs and Head/Chassis Ground Straps

 

Thanks again to Mr. JMP, awesome service and product!

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/11f681ee2df98a91ca07f0818fced943.jpg

 

 

Also got more parts.

 

Subaru Blue Oil Filters

Power Steering, Alternator, and A/C belts

Oil Cooler Coolant Hose Elbow

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/cfeba48e2ef5625b54c76a5c3fe4d359.jpg

 

 

 

05/03/2015

 

 

Went to radio shack.

Got my Catless uppipe resistor.

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/b71fc7bc459e18ae983fa093381401d3.jpg

 

 

 

06/03/2015

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5165269

 

Installed the right oil cooler coolant hose

 

Installed the oil pan

 

 

 

06/06/2015

 

 

Cleaned the exhaust flanges.

Installed the exhaust manifolds, up pipe, turbo, turbo oil feed line

 

Installed the timing covers and crank pulley

 

 

07/06/2015

 

Zerolift TGV Delete Kit

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/bdf51ca300b5f38b6f45d3fbf14ba65b.jpg

 

 

07/13/2015

 

Venair Silicon Hose Kits

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/ad380d3a96897ca7192693915ca645b1.jpg

 

 

 

08/04/2015

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5206735&postcount=320

 

Finally put my Flex(Drive) plate on.

 

 

 

08/05/2015

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5207624

 

Put the power steering pump on.

Motor mounts on.

Put the torque converter on.

Mated the engine and trans.

 

 

08/11/2015

 

Re-tightened the freon line over the trans.

Reconnected the heater hoses.

Reconnected the fuel/vent lines.

Reconnected the vacuum booster line.

Reconnected the injector harness.

Put the starter in.

Reconnected the starter wires.

Reconnected the A/C clutch wire.

Reconnected the alternator wires.

Good, luck. I'm hoping this thread turns out better than the other one!

Thanks haha I just wanted to retitle it.

 

Picking up the short block this afternoon

Why a 12mm oil pump? 11 is overkill for a DD, 12 is meant for high HP hhigh-revving dual AVCS-

 

Did you get a new oil cooler, too?

Good point. Most of the builds I've been looking at everyone keeps going bigger because they need it(>9,000hp).

 

 

This is why I posted before I have purchased much. Wanted some feed back.

 

I have not gotten a new oil cooler, is not the best idea to reuse the old one?

 

Found this. I have no problem staying with a 10mm if my '13 short block clearances and my D25 heads

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=39121474&postcount=10

Why are you buying valve seals and a gasket kit? The kit comes with valve seals. And use the 10mm pump for single avcs 11mm for dual

I just saw that actually.

 

I typed this up putting a parts list off the top of my head. I hadnt looked into what all came in the gasket kit. thanks though.

 

Yeah I'm still using single AVCS heads.

 

From what I understand, the Oil puck up tube problem was '06+. So I'll be reusing my stock piece.

I would really suggest a pickup. It's basically all turbo ej25 motors with the pick up issue. My pick up failed, it's what blew my motor :-/

I would really suggest a pickup. It's basically all turbo ej25 motors with the pick up issue. My pick up failed, it's what blew my motor :-/

 

This. I hate to say it, but, when you're spending this much on a rebuild, you have to keep in mind that $100-200 here and there can mean the difference between longevity and doing it again.

 

The KB pickup is like, $175, sometimes less, depending on which seller you buy it from. Worth every penny to ensure that your bearings don't starve and that everything gets all the oil it's supposed to.

Does that $722 figure include headwork? I don't see headwork on there.

 

Swap the $700 dyno tune for $400 in headwork and $250-350 for a used V2 Cobb AP.

 

Do you have a DP?

no. what head work would i need done? I was just going to lap my old valves on the new heads.

 

 

Staying as stock as possible. Dont need any BS with SMOG. so stock turbo, stock DP.

 

 

Actually I was supposed to smog it a month ago. So once its running, thats the first things i'll be doing in order to get my registrations tags.

See my build thread or shopping list with the post from JmP6889928 about headwork.

 

Write that shit down (or print it out?) and use that list to call and get prices on headwork, or just hand it to a machine shop and say, Do 'dis!

 

1. Machine shop will pressure test.

2. Hot tank

3. Clean the valves and inspect to make sure there is enough sealing surface on the valve itself and if not, replace.

4. Inspect the valve guides and replace if necessary.

5. Inspect the valve seats and replace if necessary.

6. Grind the valves themselves on a valve grinding machine.

7. Grind the seats with a valve seat grinder.

8. Deck the heads (gasket surface) enough without being too much-enough to make sure that they both are flat.

9. Install the valves into the head with assembly lube.

10. Install new valve stem seals on each valve.

11. Reinstall the springs onto each valve stem.

12. Insert your cams and buckets and switch buckets around until they have the valves correctly lashed as per specs.

13. Call you up to come and get them and pay them $400.00 or more, depending on exactly what else is needed.

 

I got mine done at a local NAPA, but they are close to, and used by my shop, PIA. Call around to the local Subie shops, see who they use (don't let them tell you they do it themselves -- bullshit.) and then take your heads there. You just need them refreshed/rebuilt, unless there's damage. Bring cams, cam towers, and bolts so that they can set the lash. Realistically, they'll need to be adjusted one more time before install, but, that's fairly easy to do, now that I've watched it. If you have any experience with a feeler guage, you'll have no problem -

 

Mind the specs on those bolts when you tighten them down! If you shear a cam tower bolt, you're gonna have a bad time.

no. what head work would i need done? I was just going to lap my old valves on the new heads.

 

 

Staying as stock as possible. Dont need any BS with SMOG. so stock turbo, stock DP.

 

 

Actually I was supposed to smog it a month ago. So once its running, thats the first things i'll be doing in order to get my registrations tags.

 

I'm up for smog this month, and from what I've heard, they just hook it up, and if there's no CEL, then you're good to go.

 

I know that Cali is different, though, with visual inspection and all. At the very least, for the sake of your turbo, you need to replace your UP with an STi takeoff one. (~$75) It's an OEM bit, it should pass visual just fine, and it won't kill your turbo, as a new one will be about $750.

Oil pick up tubes besides Killer B for much less money.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p3.html Post 37

 

If you are going to lap your valves in yourself (and it can work fine if you do as long as there are no other inherent issues-guides, seats, etc.), make sure that the valves are actually in decent shape and not bent. If you've done hand lapping before, then you'll know what I mean as to the stripe around the mating surfaces. Find someone that you know that might have some extra used valves in case you have a couple that don't look great. Make sure and clean the stems as well as you can and mark them as you take them out. It's sometimes easier to simply take one out, do the cleaning and lapping, and reinstall it with new seal and assembly lube, and then move to the next, but remember that once you do this, it most likely will change your bucket/cam measurement because you'll be actually making the valve stem slightly taller. Do the entire head and then begin to check with feeler gauge for clearances.

 

Here's a great tool for removing the valves easily and quickly:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p8.html Post 117-I purchased the Company 23 piece and have used it-works excellently and easily.

 

 

Before you do the valves, just make sure and flatplate the heads (glue 240 grit sandpaper <adhesive sandpaper is available at body shops in rolls> onto a flat aluminum plate large enough to reach across the head) and slowly and gently take it down until it's closer than it was. If you had no head gasket issues before, then you shouldn't now. Also lightly go over the block deck too just to make sure there are no imperfections. Believe me, if you had a head gasket fail and you took it to a shop, in almost all cases, they would simply clean it, and put on a new gasket. Rarely would they have the heads reconditioned, especially if it's only one head gasket.

 

I would suggest the ARP head stud kit as it will definitely make sure that your heads are more consistent. Also, as MrTris can attest, if you stud the oil pan, windage tray, pickup tube, and just about anything else that you can in 6mm, your strength goes way up because you're not using the threads in the aluminum, but the threads in the nut to tighten up. Much stronger, much safer, much more consistent. You can purchase long 6mm allen set screws and then nuts and washers and they work great.

 

Lastly, as I'm sure you're already aware, ANTI SEIZE THE HELL OUT OF IT when you reassemble. I even painted my mating surface and alignment pins/holes between the back of the engine block and transmission bell housing with a thin coating of anti seize because if I ever have to take it apart, I want it to come apart with no hassles.

 

Good luck and take your time and it will come out right.

I'm up for smog this month, and from what I've heard, they just hook it up, and if there's no CEL, then you're good to go.

 

I know that Cali is different, though, with visual inspection and all. At the very least, for the sake of your turbo, you need to replace your UP with an STi takeoff one. (~$75) It's an OEM bit, it should pass visual just fine, and it won't kill your turbo, as a new one will be about $750.

 

 

Yeah i got an sti uppipe long before the engine died, never installed it though. Now that its all apart, I will.

Cams are in the mail.

 

I still need to clean up my valves.

 

Still waiting to hear back from the guy im trying to buy the heads from.

Sub for another good build. GL

Sub for another good build. GL

 

Looks like we all learnt something from Waspy after all! (Even if it was what not to do!)

Sub for another good build. GL

 

I'm at the point my heads are next item to tackle so why not? subscribed too.

UPS dropped off some goodies.

 

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/09/ydy5uqeh.jpg

Nice.

 

So where are you now with the build?

Heads are in the mail. I still have a crap tone of "small" things to buy.

 

Money already needs to be carefully spent.

Ok so I hope not to find this much carnage... Subbed. Were at the same place for different reasons.