variations/manufacturer changes between 4th gen models?

Searched and probably didn't use the correct words. Didn't see a sticky for it.

 

I just posted my newbie intro, although I'm technically not a newbie here or forums for that matter. Just decided to be active and start looking for a Gen4.

 

Anyways, is there info here regarding the manufacturer updates between the Gen4 years? Safety updates, face lift (08-09 I know of), and all of that jazz?

 

I want an 08-09 model, but I'd like to know if the models were basically identical minus the facelift. Were there chassis updates and what not? Pros and Cons?

 

I own a 91 Toyota MR2 Turbo and those suckers changed quite a bit throughout each gen's years. 91-92 then 93 then 94-95. Spyders are even worse for changes.

 

Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to pull the trigger on one soon. Thanks

I'm guessing the stickies in this section were useless?

I wouldn't be asking if they were useful to my question. If the info is in there, the sticky isn't titled correctly or is scattered.

 

Maybe I should leave an example of what I'm looking for. For the sake of MR2s, I own a MK2 model and the changes of the MK2 model are as follows:

 

90-92E Revision 1, Gen 2 3SGTE motor

 

92L-93 Revision 2, Gen 2 3SGTE motor - Wheels updated to 15", Rotors upgraded, Brakes upgraded, Front Lip updated, second subwoofer added, minor motor update, rear support beam updated to reduce oversteer, etc...

 

94-96E Revision 3, Gen 2 3SGTE motor - spoiler updated, passenger side airbag updated, other minor updates, etc...

 

97-98E Revision 4, Gen 3 3SGTE motor - not much difference. Side markers moved to fender.

 

98L-99 Revision 5, Gen 3 3SGTE motor - Rear brake caliper updated, Clear front indicators added, 3 point adjustable rear spoiler added, other minor updates, etc...

 

 

Get my point? The example is loose, but even motor details can be significant. The gen 3 motors for MR2's were completely changed around. Oil filter was even relocated.

Also looking for common problems across MY's and if they were fixed in revised years of the Gen4.

You want to buy a 09 Spec B, everything else is just a car.

 

the later models have the air pump and the banjo filter on the passenger side has been moved to a top location, I think they moved it in 07.

 

Read the sticky about the highest mileage and how are these cars holding up.

 

Oh I see they moved that sticky... I wonder where it went? Oh here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/has-most-miles-their-lgt-and-they-holding-upi-vol-200435.html

 

just google 2009 Spec B and then google 2009 Legacy GT.

Cars101 is good for learning about the differences in features/options/upgrades between the various years.

Thanks fellas. Very helpful. I like Max Cap's 09 Spec B comment lol. I want a Spec B, but I don't need one. I prefer having an AT to commute or drive "normal" with. GT Limited will probably suit me fine.

 

I read the Cars101 and it is informative, but didn't seem to list known issues or why the updates were made. Either way it was good. I was looking for user info from enthusiasts i.e. experiences with the revisions.

 

I also didn't notice any significant differences between the 08 and 09. If there were mechanical issues revised between the two years then it'd be good to know. In the example of the MR2 Spyder, the 2005 MY and last production revision had a significant update to the chassis IIRC.

 

Anyways, the banjo filter... Is that what I've read about Subie turbo motors clogging or what not? It was banjo something and had to do with oil.

FWIW, my 05 is a lot faster then my 09...but there's a reason for that. Oh it gets better MPG too.

 

 

The 08-09 seem to be the better choice. They have a air pump but you can delete if you want, there's a DIY for it.

 

I have both banjo filters removed from my 05. My 09 has them both still.

 

08-and 09 are the same, except for may be the o-rings between the intake manifold and TGV's. Some of the 08's have the same cold idle issue as the early cars. The new larger orange o-rings fixed that.

10-4, thank you. I've been searching for an 08-09, however the dealerships around here want too much or the car is in another state. It'll be difficult to find a Cali car.

 

Are you aware of any rust prone areas i.e. rocker panels? I searched the site, but it appears inconsistent other than the rubber lined areas around the wheel well.

 

I searched for the air pump. I'm assuming it's designed to aid in movement of oil. I have not yet determined if it is a necessity or has issues. I suppose that's a good thing.

 

Thanks for the help.

I have no rust on my 05. It's the car I take to VT every winter weekend skiing. If there was a rust issue I'd have seen it.

 

I have no plans to delete the air pump on my 09, its not a race car.

That's good to know and will play a big role in if I will have a LGT transported or not.

 

Yea, not a race car lol. This will be my mature, grown up sports sedan that I can drive to work without my superiors shaking their heads. I don't plan to mod the vehicle at all... Maybe install a boost gauge since there doesn't appear to be an OEM one from what I can see.

 

I don't like beamers or mercs at all. Audi's are cool, but I don't like the track record of them based on 2nd hand experiences of close friends.

 

The Gen4 LGT (don't like the other gens at all) is an obvious choice for balance of power, gas, and aesthetics. I like the AWD also since I'll be driving around rural areas from time to time.

I would recommend you put a down pipe on the car and then have it tuned. My wagon has a catless 3" Invidia DP stock fueling, a smaller boost pill, make 280whp and gets good 25-26mpg on my weekly DD. The car is a blast to drive.

 

You don't want these cars on the stock tune. It is flawed.

 

Oh they also don't like to driven only short distances and shut off.

Thanks. I'll have to review what is legal in CA before I perform any mods.

Before you buy look into all the known problems. The tune is bad, ringland failure, eating oil, dash rattles etc.

 

This car gets very close for me to being more German than Japanese.

 

You cannot beat the tq curve and low purchase price. MPG is horrible for a 2.5 4 cyl. The AT is sloppy and shifts really smooth but it slows the car down a lot. But while the manual improves speed it's got to be of the worst manual gear boxes I've ever drive. It's a big slush box with near zero feedback.

 

Stock pads are mushy. Stock sways and suspension on not spec b is really soft. Car doesn't remain composed when pushed.

 

On the plus side the leather seats are holding up well. My AT has 114k and going strong.

 

So unless you buy an ultra low mileage car you've bought from someone off a stock tune with full compression check and inspection; expect problems.

10-4, Thank you, Rob. That's the data that I was looking for. I did notice that my MR2 gets better gas mileage, but they're different classes of vehicles with different motor sizes.

 

Alright, what is considered as low mileage in the LGT world not KBB world? I've seen these range from 24k - 100k+ in local sales in both NA and T.

 

Thanks

 

 

Before you buy look into all the known problems. The tune is bad, ringland failure, eating oil, dash rattles etc.

 

This car gets very close for me to being more German than Japanese.

 

You cannot beat the tq curve and low purchase price. MPG is horrible for a 2.5 4 cyl. The AT is sloppy and shifts really smooth but it slows the car down a lot. But while the manual improves speed it's got to be of the worst manual gear boxes I've ever drive. It's a big slush box with near zero feedback.

 

Stock pads are mushy. Stock sways and suspension on not spec b is really soft. Car doesn't remain composed when pushed.

 

On the plus side the leather seats are holding up well. My AT has 114k and going strong.

 

So unless you buy an ultra low mileage car you've bought from someone off a stock tune with full compression check and inspection; expect problems.

10-4, Thank you, Rob. That's the data that I was looking for. I did notice that my MR2 gets better gas mileage, but they're different classes of vehicles with different motor sizes.

 

Alright, what is considered as low mileage in the LGT world not KBB world? I've seen these range from 24k - 100k+ in local sales in both NA and T.

 

Thanks

 

Personally, I'd consider low mileage to be anything under ~50k, but I'm more interested in a car's history than the number on the odometer.

 

Note that the timing belt service is due at 105k, which is an expensive service if you're paying somebody to do it, or time consuming if you're doing it yourself. When I was shopping, it seemed like there were a lot in the 90-110k miles range

Oh shoot. Timing belt service would be important. IIRC 2.5 motors are interference, correct?

Yes, interference fit.

 

There's a couple of good DIY threads about it on here.

Oh shoot. Timing belt service would be important. IIRC 2.5 motors are interference, correct?

 

I know the 2.5GT is interference, so yes, TB is very important. I'm assuming the 2.5i is also, but not 100% sure.

 

By biggest recommendation is just to be patient in your search. Consider expanding your search radius, and be open to flying out to pickup the car, or having it shipped to you. If you find what looks to be a nice one further away, you may be able to find somebody in your regional forum to check it out for you in person.

Track vs highway miles are different but generally speaking the lower the miles the better.

buy one with a blown engine for pennies and build it with confidence.

I've owned 3 MR2's. Tired of building now plus I don't want to wait on it or go through the agony and issues associated with building.

 

I'll keep hunting.

Hey! I also have had 3 MR2s. They were all 1986 models, I bought the first one in 1987 and drove it to 160k when someone pulled out in front of me. The second one I bought with 106k and drove it to 308. The third I bought from my brother who also has had a few MR2s, it just turned 110k miles.

 

About five years ago I bought a '05 LGT Ltd. wagon to replace my Ford van work car. Only after finding these forums did I realize the turbo had been changed and UP/DP and oil line. I drove it to 160k until a f-ing deer ran out in front of it.

 

So I bought the closest LGT Ltd wagon I could find which also has 160k, but is one-owner and always maintained at the same dealer. I don't live close to a dealer and found that it is very important to check for a banjo bolt filter on the oil feed behind the turbo. My local mechanic didn't know about that either.

 

The 05 and 06 wagons are very similar, but the 06 has the auto dimming RV mirror, the center console has a height adjustable arm rest, but is missing the button to brighten the dash lights when day driving with lights on.

Concerning MR2 changes: I worked at a Toyota dealership from 1985 to 89. During that time the strength of the yen against the dollar caused Toyota to cut costs to avoid massive price hikes. The 1986 models had the nicest interior and fullest feature set. By 1988 there was a very noticeable difference in materials used in the interior and less equipped cars were prevalent.

Really? Totally makes sense for the MK1. I've noticed mixed parts and plastic materials between 86-87. Still a great classic 80's machine to go with glass Raybans, multi-zippered leather jackets, and leather driving gloves.

 

I thought it was interesting that for the MK1 and MK2, Toyota made the early versions with the fun suspension then swapped to the more stable (and dull) in the later versions yet the MK3 was reversed and received the dull version first. The MK3 was just full of cheap plastics all around.

 

MR2's are great, but totally not for practical applications. It really is just a car to drive and smile even after my hair falls out and the young ladies think I'm a creepy perv lol.

 

Were you an MR2.com or OC forum member at one point? With that many MR2's under your pedigree, you must have been especially if you stuck with the gokart of a MK1.