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Clutch replacement adivce


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I have lost my clutch while driving 2 times now. The first time it was my clutch fork, the pivot ball punched through the fork. This time (about 7k miles after the first time :spin:) the actual pivot ball broke leaving some of the bolt still in the threads on the transmission.

 

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a606/yfarmeaahka/FC431F2E-3639-42F5-8FDD-A809239F6B3D-10694-00000A0DFA1E60CD.jpg

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a606/yfarmeaahka/68FDD10E-EEFD-4953-B0A3-98F6FC12D238-10694-00000A0DDC2997AC.jpg

 

This is what it looked like the first time from the shift fork opening on top of the transmission.

 

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a606/yfarmeaahka/185C7950-8DF2-4046-918D-BB6BB5785A0F-10694-00000A1634BC8CE3_zps0bd2c705.jpg

 

This is what it looked like this time.

 

Now I was told that the car had a fidanza LWFW when I got it and the first time I did this job I didnt look at the clutch or flywheel because I was just rushing to get the job done. This time I removed the clutch and found excessive glazing on the flywheel and the clutch has about 30-40% life left so I'm going to go ahead and replace it. The flywheel that is actually in it is a F1 racing flywheel so I believe I can only run 06+ wrx clutch on it and have to get the flywheel refinished instead of just replacing a plate.

 

I'm going to reinforce the crap out of the fork and powder coat it, attempt to remove the bolt still in the transmission from the pivot ball (any adivice on how?) and install one of the transmission input shaft sleeve things. I need some advice on a good clutch that can handle power and is cheaper than an act.

 

I was in the middle of a stage 2 tune with infamous so it needs to handle that much torque or more because I'm planning on getting a 20g down the road. the clutch that is on it is an exedy stage one and I have read some people saying it cant handle a whole lot of extra torque so I dont know if I want to go back to another one of those.

 

Any advice would be awesome.

 

power upgrades: AVO TMIC, STI UP, cobb catted DP and a borla CBE

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If you can't drill and use a easy-out to get the threads out, you may have to have a machine shop remove it.

 

Any time you replace the clutch, you should resurface the FW.

 

Yes, the TSK3 kit is one thing you should have.

 

I wouldn't bother powder coating the those.

 

contact m sprank or Mike at AZPinstalls.com and see what he recommends for a clutch set up.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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good clutch that can handle power and is cheaper than an act

I'm planning on getting a 20g down the road.

So you're saying you need something that can handle a 20G and I'm assuming with supporting mods.

 

As far as the Exedy not holding up, check this thread out:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-exedy-racing-stage-1-organic-clutch-kit-151475.html

 

It's rated low, but LALGT has a high power setup and it's holding up fine. Of course, it depends on how you drive it too.

 

Maybe look into the Spec options.... You'll need to check the torque ratings on those though. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/spec-subaru-legacy-gt-clutch-kit-s.html

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Pretty sure LALGT has a Comp Clutch stg 3.5 setup now. They're killer for the price point. I have the same one in my car and love it so far. Had to send my ACT HD setup in for warranty work and couldn't afford the downtime while ACT inspected/warrantied my setup.

 

To the OP, if you like ACT, I will be getting my HD setup back from them this week. Brand new pressure plate, refaced clutch disc, resurfaced streetlight flywheel. Will be posting FS once it gets back to me. There's another member who has the PP and clutch disc FS currently as well. GL with your decision!

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Thanks for the advice guys, I notice on the exedy stage one it was warn more on the outer edge of the disc than the inner and I'm not sure how that would happen. I would like to get an act hd clutch but man they are steep in price. Ill check out the spec options and look at the torque ratings. I'm honestly not sure how much torque the setup I'm planning on going to will have. I noticed a lot of people have the ACT HD clutch so I'm assuming its a pretty smooth and strong clutch.

 

I am planning on getting injectors and a 20g and possibly trying the tgv delete, seems pretty easy just a lot of grinding. I have an STI fuel pump at the moment and I'm not sure if thats enough or not.

 

The part I'm most scared about is getting this freaking bolt out. I have a reverse threaded drill bit and a bit that grabs the broken stud once its tapped so I've got my fingers crossed that its going to just come right out.

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As max said, the bolt may have to be extracted by a machine shop.

 

As for clutch and flywheel, with the power you plan to have I would go with an ACT HD combined with a lwfw. Definitely don't skimp on the clutch if you plan to go with more power down the road. The TSK3 is also a very good item to use as well.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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The ACT HD is rated to about 420 ft-lbs at the crank, which translates to about 336 ft-lbs at the wheels. I think a Stage 2 setup yield somewhere in the area of 240-275 ft-lbs, depending on the dyno... at least that's what I got from searching a bit.

 

Here's a bit of a comparison for reference:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bnr-hta68-thread-140671.html?

 

According to that, a 20G will put you just over the limit of the ACT if you're running E85. Also, I would expect that it can probably still hold up fine if you don't abuse it and especially on 91/93 instead of E85. But personally, I'd get something that holds more torque if I were going with a 20G only because I like having an extra margin of safety.

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As far as the Exedy not holding up, check this thread out: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-exedy-racing-stage-1-organic-clutch-kit-151475.html

It's rated low, but LALGT has a high power setup and it's holding up fine. Of course, it depends on how you drive it too.

 

It lasted only ~15k miles at my power set up BUT IT DID HOLD!!! The FW was blued and the clutch was scorched. The TOB was a MESS. Between the driveability issues and the fact that there are other clutches with a much better pedal and engagement feel that have higher holding capacity sells me on everything else. I will never, ever run an Exedy staged clutch in any car I have when there are better products out there.

 

Pretty sure LALGT has a Comp Clutch stg 3.5 setup now.

 

Yeah, that exedy stage1 only held up for so long.

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Well alright haha. I hated the way my exedy felt but it was put on the car around 80k and I got the car at 113k miles so there is no telling how the car was driven before I got it. I knew how to drive a manual before but had never owned a manual before this car so I pretty much learned how to properly drive manual on this car so I know I haven't been nice to it. I have driven a 350z that had some ridiculous race clutch and I hated it. It was engaged or disengaged, no in between and it was terrible. So I want something that's going to not be too ridiculous for daily driving but can handle the stage 3 20g that will be on 93 gas not e85.
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It lasted only ~15k miles at my power set up BUT IT DID HOLD!!! The FW was blued and the clutch was scorched. The TOB was a MESS. Between the driveability issues and the fact that there are other clutches with a much better pedal and engagement feel that have higher holding capacity sells me on everything else. I will never, ever run an Exedy staged clutch in any car I have when there are better products out there.

 

 

 

Yeah, that exedy stage1 only held up for so long.

 

Was it a stage 1 or stage 1 hd?

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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6 puck, can you say on/off switch. But that was was a un-sprung disc.

 

I think the Spec 2+ may be good for goals, check them out. Mike from AZP can help you with that.

 

PM or email him, he'll take good care of you. He's take great care of me.

I also beleive the 06 -07 wrx FW is the same as the 07-09 Legacy gt's.

 

They also fit into the 05-06 GT's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I think the Spec 2+ may be good for goals, check them out. Mike from AZP can help you with that.

 

I looked at that but it's only good for 370ftlb where the act is 420. I'm not sure if 370crank tq would be enough for a stage 3.

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Mike what are your thoughts on a spec 2+ clutch vs act hd on a stage 3 setup?

 

We don't have a lot of experience with the spec 2+ clutches, Max is about the only one we've shipped out really :(

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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My act held up great on my vf52 e85 setup. Had aps elh, fueling, basic power bolt ons. Firm pedal feel, but that is what I like. No issues with slipping or holding power. Grabby as heck until broken in, but my comp that in on right now was the same way.
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We don't have a lot of experience with the spec 2+ clutches, Max is about the only one we've shipped out really :(

 

I haven't ever heard of max but ill look at them.

 

Just out of curiosity does anyone know what size torx the flywheel bolts are (assuming all flywheel bolts are the same) I have up to t55 but I have them at work and haven't brought them home but I feel like they are bigger than that and the next size up I have is a t70 for the transmission drain plug.

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Glad to hear the bolt came out. That's must be a big relief.

 

I got my torx plus t50+ from fredbeans a vendor here.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4724.jpg

 

That's the Spec LWFW in the picture.

 

I had over 80,000 miles on my Spec 2+ when I pulled the engine, I put a Spec 2 back in the car. The 2+ was still good but for my HP the Spec 2 is fine. The 2+ had nice pedal pressure, not much more than stock.

 

The Spec 2+ came from JSCspeed also on the vendor list back in may of 07.

 

 

 

Mike, he was asking what else you can recommend too. Would the FX300 be good for him ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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We've had good luck with the fx300, exedy stage 1 hd, and act hd. Fx300 is probably the lightest pedal feel of the 3.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Getting that stud out was a huge relief. It came out with just a little cordless electric drill.

 

I'll check out the fx300 also. I need to get on ordering one so I can get this thing back on the road.

 

I had a buddy at work weld my fork and he brought it back painted also, I was really surprised. I think it looks pretty good and its just a bead around the cup that the ball sits in. I think everyone that puts a new fork in should do this as a must to prevent major headaches! http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a606/yfarmeaahka/6D8441D3-44E8-41DE-A5C1-56274CA7DD7F-585-0000003D70F02AE7_zps431346c1.jpg

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a606/yfarmeaahka/084C0BCF-956C-4503-A715-3BD9EBAE85DB-585-0000003D78A09701_zps6f24ad80.jpg

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I believe I'm going to go with the act hd street clutch. The exedy I wasn't a big fan of and it can't hold a lot of torque, the spec seams to be the next best thing to act but its not much cheaper and I like the thought of having that extra cushion room on power. The fx300 doesn't have a torque rating that I could find and makes me a little iffy about it. I feel like the act will be my best bet with more mods coming in the future.

 

Now with the F1 racing LWFW I'm assuming I need to get the 06-07 ACT HD Street clutch kit and not a legacy gt one? I also noticed the sti had a cheaper price when I typed it into google shopping, I'm guessing I wouldn't be able to run that on my flywheel either?

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