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Clearing up all the oil info....


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I'm sure Mike will tell you to have the oil analysed to ensure it's still good to go.

Here's a link to Amsoil's recommendations.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/ProductRecommendations.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2009+SUBARU+LEGACY+E

 

I have a oil drain valve on the oil pan so I can have my oil sampled and tested.

 

This weekend I'll wrap the drain valve in a bearier paper and seal it so it will stay clean. Should have done this when I installed it. I'll give it a good wipe with some IPA and Q-tips.

 

In the next month or so I'll look into what it takes to get the oil analysed. I have clean sample bottles that are used for water samples. I wonder if I can use that for the sample and ship it off to the Lab.

 

Just found this, http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

 

Anybody use them before ?

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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yep, they'll send you a kit for free. they provide a good, detailed analysis. search thread titles for UOA (if you go to advanced search, there's a dropdown box under where you enter the search words and you can switch to "Search Titles Only") or and you'll see a number of threads with results... here is mine...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/uoa-mobil-1-0w40-4600mi-oci-2005-5-lgt-112654.html?t=112654&highlight=UOA

 

I ran a TBN on my first one to see how well the M1 0w40 did after a 4600mi OCI. I was going to run another one but never got around to it, probably should run another as that one was 2 years ago... can tell you a lot about the wear on your engine, and if your intake is doing a good job of filtering (high silicon would indicate bad filtering)

 

there's a small process to getting your sample of oil. car needs to have been run for long enough for the oil to be hot and have any fuel burnt out of it (some highway driving) and when you take the sample, fill the bottle part way through the drain, not at the very beginning or end. i think the details are in one of the threads somewhere. maybe search for Used Oil Analysis for that one.

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Thanks for the link,

 

So the smart way would be to drain off say two cups in a clean measuring cup from the kitchen, then take the sample, pour the oil from the measuring cup back into the fill tube. Then top off the oil level.

 

Wash the measuring cup and return to kitchen before...someone notices that's it missing ;)

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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haha yeah that process would work. I had mine done when changing the oil, so the drain process was started, let some drain out in the beginning, put the bottle under to fill it, then let it finish draining. careful, though, the bottle opening is small and the oil will be hot! spillage onto yourself can/will happen, my friend can attest :lol:. but i guess you have some type of spout? might make it easier.

 

they send you the bottle to use, there's some types of plastic that will leech into the oil. sample size is pretty small, too. 3-5oz i think.

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That's why I bought the fumoto drain valve

 

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=oil+drain+valve+fumoto&aq=1&aqi=g2g-s1g1g-v6&aql=&oq=oil+drain+valve

 

Just to make this easier.

 

Any of you guy's thinking about going to Amsoil and joining as a Perfered Member, please use AZPinstalls as your sponsor. It will help out someone who helps us out here on the Forum.

 

Please support those that give us help for free.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I'm sure Mike will tell you to have the oil analysed to ensure it's still good to go.

Here's a link to Amsoil's recommendations.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/ProductRecommendations.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2009+SUBARU+LEGACY+E

 

I have a oil drain valve on the oil pan so I can have my oil sampled and tested.

 

This weekend I'll wrap the drain valve in a bearier paper and seal it so it will stay clean. Should have done this when I installed it. I'll give it a good wipe with some IPA and Q-tips.

 

In the next month or so I'll look into what it takes to get the oil analysed. I have clean sample bottles that are used for water samples. I wonder if I can use that for the sample and ship it off to the Lab.

 

Just found this, http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

 

Anybody use them before ?

Yes I agree.

 

Thanks. Is it true you can go 15k on the oil and Ea oil filters?

 

Short answer, yes. For over the last 5yrs. My 05 GT 168k+ & my G/F's 05 WRX 125k+, with no oil related failures. OCI is between 12K to 15K. Before Subaru put out their Service Bulletin # 02-103-07. I already been running 15k OCI & OA's have came back "Good for Continuous Use". So I saw no need to change my OCI. Has I told Max, If your not going to run Extends Drain Intervals. (IMO at least 7.5k) Them IMO you can use cheaper oil & filter to protect up to Subaru's 3750 OCI.

 

What you do is up to you, at your own risk. If you do Extends Drain Intervals (at least 7.5k) I would do your OA's at your current OCI. Up to you plan on changing you oil & filter. For the 1st oil change. After you AO's come back "Good for Continuous Use" up to whatever OCI you deside under 15K. Then all you have to do is to watch for oil usage. Remember that Amsoil only Recommends extended drain intervals with their oils. If use with their EA oil filters.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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You don't want to pay the price for any oil that's much better than the others.

 

The difference between engine oils is about the same as the difference between japanese 2 liter naturally aspirated engines for ordinary cars - there are differences but all of them works in the same way and have about equal performance.

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There are a couple of points I would like to throw in here for consideration.

 

1. Not all oils are the same and to commoditize them is a mistake. Oils are different, yes they have the same purpose, but the formulation via the additives and base oil utilized can make a significant difference in how they interact and lubricate engine parts. My point of reference is the differences found in oil wear testing result.

 

2. Conventional vs synthetics.... you will find very opinionated people in this debate on both sides of the coin. Once again though oils are not all the same. Synthetics are designed to provide better lubrication, not burn off as easily and last longer. A recent example of this was the Forester XT I just bought. The previous owner only ran conventional oils in the car and changed his oil every 4 to 5K. Well shortly after I got the car I realized that by 4K about 1 quart of oil had been burned off. Shortly, there after the car ran into an oiling issue that blew the turbo. It wasn't until I ran an oil system cleaner (kreen... great stuff) through the car that I realized how dirty and poorly the engine was functioning. The oil that came out after the cleaner was nasty. The point is subaru along with several other car manufactures do not recommend conventional oil for turbo charged cars for this very reason. Synthetics will burn off additives over time, but the oil does not breakdown. This brings up my next point.

 

3. Extended oil changes are not for everyone and can have serious consequences for your motor. Amsoil specifically can last for 15K, but the filter will not. The filter must be changed every 7500 miles and oil levels must be checked and filled on a consistent basis. On that note, even Amsoil recommends a decreased extended OCI for heavy or turbo applications. The issues I personally have with extended oil changes is that there is a huge reliance on the oil filter and the depletion of additives over time reducing the effectiveness of the oil. I know of several auto manufacturers who extended and then retracted their longer OCIs due to numerous engine failures. In other words, if you are not meticulous about the care of your car and have full faith in your oil then go for it, but realize that it's not without risk.

 

4. UOA are a great suggestion and I am really happy to see people here recommending them. They can really help guide you will your oil related decisions.

 

Hope this adds to the conversation and thought processes associated with this conversation.

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There are a couple of points I would like to throw in here for consideration.

 

1. Not all oils are the same and to commoditize them is a mistake. Oils are different, yes they have the same purpose, but the formulation via the additives and base oil utilized can make a significant difference in how they interact and lubricate engine parts. My point of reference is the differences found in oil wear testing result.

 

2. Conventional vs synthetics.... you will find very opinionated people in this debate on both sides of the coin. Once again though oils are not all the same. Synthetics are designed to provide better lubrication, not burn off as easily and last longer. A recent example of this was the Forester XT I just bought. The previous owner only ran conventional oils in the car and changed his oil every 4 to 5K. Well shortly after I got the car I realized that by 4K about 1 quart of oil had been burned off. Shortly, there after the car ran into an oiling issue that blew the turbo. It wasn't until I ran an oil system cleaner (kreen... great stuff) through the car that I realized how dirty and poorly the engine was functioning. The oil that came out after the cleaner was nasty. The point is subaru along with several other car manufactures do not recommend conventional oil for turbo charged cars for this very reason. Synthetics will burn off additives over time, but the oil does not breakdown. This brings up my next point.

 

3. Extended oil changes are not for everyone and can have serious consequences for your motor. Amsoil specifically can last for 15K, but the filter will not. The filter must be changed every 7500 miles and oil levels must be checked and filled on a consistent basis. On that note, even Amsoil recommends a decreased extended OCI for heavy or turbo applications. The issues I personally have with extended oil changes is that there is a huge reliance on the oil filter and the depletion of additives over time reducing the effectiveness of the oil. I know of several auto manufacturers who extended and then retracted their longer OCIs due to numerous engine failures. In other words, if you are not meticulous about the care of your car and have full faith in your oil then go for it, but realize that it's not without risk.

 

4. UOA are a great suggestion and I am really happy to see people here recommending them. They can really help guide you will your oil related decisions.

 

Hope this adds to the conversation and thought processes associated with this conversation.

 

The only part I disagree with is in RED. Amsoil Ea oil filters, depending on size, are good for 15k to 25k or 1 year. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx I run Ea15k13 the 05 WRX & Ea026 & EaBP90 in the 05 GT. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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I read an interview with an engineer who develops lubricants and it was pretty interesting. I have tried finding the article online but cannot. The most interesting part he discussed was that organic oil handles contamination better than synthetic. I ran synthetic blend for years as a result of that article and it served me well. Now I just run synthetic and change it more often.
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You know, I use 5w30 and 10w30 interchangeable on the older suby, and 5w30 with subaru filters on the shiny new one. All Mobile one. I must say, I haven't been greatly impressed with the stuff. I change the oil every 3k in my car and 4k in my wifes car. It always looks seriously beat coming out of both cars. Mine get's driven slightly harder than hers, but hers is driven like an old woman. 7k on mine and hers has 60k on it. I used Castrol GTX in my built 3000gt's and it seemed to hold up a bit better. That is completely subjective of course.

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Back in the 70's, (showing my age) Castrol would warranty any car engine for 100,000 miles if you ran Castrol GTX in it. Around that time, VW recommended Castrol GTX to limit oil consumption.

Go back a few pages and you'll see my posts that echo Blackwagonman's post. My information wasn't based on opinions because of something I read. I went to lubrication schools put on by Royal Purple, Castrol, and Summit. I learned a lot about synthetics, additives and advertising. How motor oils are marketed is right next to snake oil. People believe whoever advertises the most.

When an oil carries a specific API specification, it must contain that specific additive package that is sold by one of the few petrochemical companies. It doesn't matter what brand of oil it is, they MUST use that specific additive blend. The differences in motor oils then boils down to the base oil that's blended with that additive package. There is a limit to the extra additives that are allowed based on the percentage it dilutes the API package.

Running approved engine oils is only important if you have a warranty. If you're out of warranty, then you can run whatever you want. All of the major oil companies offer racing oils and are hands down the best you can buy. If you think NASCAR, F-1, or any other racing series you care to name runs a $5/quart oil in a $50,000 motor, you believe the advertising and the tooth fairy.

Racing oils cost more, but you can be certain it's the best motor oil that company sells.

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There are a couple of points I would like to throw in here for consideration.

 

1. Not all oils are the same and to commoditize them is a mistake. Oils are different, yes they have the same purpose, but the formulation via the additives and base oil utilized can make a significant difference in how they interact and lubricate engine parts. My point of reference is the differences found in oil wear testing result.

 

2. Conventional vs synthetics.... you will find very opinionated people in this debate on both sides of the coin. Once again though oils are not all the same. Synthetics are designed to provide better lubrication, not burn off as easily and last longer. A recent example of this was the Forester XT I just bought. The previous owner only ran conventional oils in the car and changed his oil every 4 to 5K. Well shortly after I got the car I realized that by 4K about 1 quart of oil had been burned off. Shortly, there after the car ran into an oiling issue that blew the turbo. It wasn't until I ran an oil system cleaner (kreen... great stuff) through the car that I realized how dirty and poorly the engine was functioning. The oil that came out after the cleaner was nasty. The point is subaru along with several other car manufactures do not recommend conventional oil for turbo charged cars for this very reason. Synthetics will burn off additives over time, but the oil does not breakdown. This brings up my next point.

 

3. Extended oil changes are not for everyone and can have serious consequences for your motor. Amsoil specifically can last for 15K, but the filter will not. The filter must be changed every 7500 miles and oil levels must be checked and filled on a consistent basis. On that note, even Amsoil recommends a decreased extended OCI for heavy or turbo applications. The issues I personally have with extended oil changes is that there is a huge reliance on the oil filter and the depletion of additives over time reducing the effectiveness of the oil. I know of several auto manufacturers who extended and then retracted their longer OCIs due to numerous engine failures. In other words, if you are not meticulous about the care of your car and have full faith in your oil then go for it, but realize that it's not without risk.

 

4. UOA are a great suggestion and I am really happy to see people here recommending them. They can really help guide you will your oil related decisions.

 

Hope this adds to the conversation and thought processes associated with this conversation.

 

but my dealer insisted, and nearly demanded, that I only use non-synthetic in the car :confused:

 

(needless to say, I never went back to the dealer after purchasing my vehicle)

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Sounds like my local dealer basically arguing with me about and then telling me I was a moron for running 0W-40 in my car. Funny how the conversation turned when I explained it was on the recommended oil list for my car. "well, well ...." silence Overall they are a good dealer it's just easy to see why people get so frustrated. Service advisers with little to no car experience do not go over well with knowledgeable customers.
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I am not sure if you were confused or questioning your dealer so I figured I would address it. As far as your dealer recommending only conventional over synthetic because it's too thin makes absolutely no sense considering that oils have standardized weights and temperatures. Maybe your dealer was referring specifically to Mobile 1 5w-30, which I have heard several people say thins down over time. Many dealers carry M1, so that could be the reason. Personally, I am not a huge fan of Mobil 1 5W-30 for the above reason. Currently I am using Rotel T6 synthetic in 10 or 15W - 40. I am really a fan of 40 weight oils for our cars. It is very encouraging to me that Porsche recommends 40 weight oils in their cars as they have a similar engine design.
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nah i bounce around oil types all the time. my preferred has been M1 0w40 but when I don't have the chance to have it changed how i want to, I'll run conventional valvoline 5w30 because there is a quick change place up the street. but when i run the valvoline 5w30 i am pretty strict about changing it at 3k miles.

 

i think the dealer was either trying to scare me into keeping my service interval business with them, or are just dumb...

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  • 2 months later...
nah i bounce around oil types all the time. my preferred has been M1 0w40 but when I don't have the chance to have it changed how i want to, I'll run conventional valvoline 5w30 because there is a quick change place up the street. but when i run the valvoline 5w30 i am pretty strict about changing it at 3k miles.

 

i think the dealer was either trying to scare me into keeping my service interval business with them, or are just dumb...

 

I'd go with the second point. I've had a dealer provide information that conflicts with the information I got from Subi America on oil change intervals.

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Referring to dirtydans post regarding napa products I can tell you that napa oil is made by valvoline. Their filters are success which are some of the best filters out there.

 

I plan to use napa filters on my 08 but I'm not a fan of valvoline synthetic oil so I will be using royal purple.

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

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  • 4 weeks later...

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